I've heard a number of way to correctly apaly wax, from the simple to the bazar.
My 1987 300E was base/coat clear/coat painted this past spring of 2000.
The more I wax it the better it's reflectivaty gets.
I never, never use a cleaner/wax combination for they leave swirl marks.
I use only carnabu paste wax. Whatever brand that is on sale. The last being Meguires Gold. I can't say there is a great difference to my eyes.
I have never seen the reason for claying, this seems to be the latest buzz high priced spread approach.
Let me tell you my technique.
First, I never allow my paint to require waxing, I always wax before it is needed. I do the roof, hood, trunk lid, and the top edges of the fenders every 3-4 weeks. The doors and the fender sides every other topside waxes.
I use a cotton towelling purchased at Walmart in a package of twelve. They are 12 inches square.
I fold one to quarters.
After applying the wax to a small area and doing a slight burnish with the applicator, I finish burnishing the wax with the folded towelling, never turning to a fresh portion, just continue burnishing to a high luster.
I repeat until I have finished the top parts of my Benz.
I did mine Benz today and only used the one portion of the towel, 1 portion of the folded towel.
As the wax built up in the towel it increased the luster of the wax.
I then dusted of the wax residue with the remainder of the towel.
Believe it or not. Try it you may be supprised.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo

Nice to know that we wax the car round the globe with the same thoughts in mind.

I used to run a wax-polish centre, and we found out that:
1. the quality of wax as important as the finish was more or less the same, the application and lasting effect was important. Turtle wax and Autoglym products had our approval because its easy to wax on and off; and it stays longer too.
2. machines dont work as well as hands altho machines are definitely easier to use on broad panels. However, if using the cotton cloth, turn the cloth around as you wax, as much as possible so that buffing is easier, and the gloss is even.
3. above all, wax when the weather is nice and dry.

Kit has recently come out with a new product which requires only an application without buffing. Havent checked this product out yet.

Happy Waxing!

__________________
... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

I too have given much conserned about waxes.
I have tested most of the pure waxes and have settled on Turtle Emerald Wax too.
It goes on and off easy and lasts a long time, although I rewax before needed.
I'm using all of the waxes I purchased for my testing, not to throw good money away.
We differ in polishe vs. burnish techniqic.
I don't turn to a fresh area but continue to use the built up wax on a small clothe to enhence the glossing effect.
I have an orbital buffer but very rairly use it, now never.
Possibly your input will help others better protect the finish of their beloved Benzes.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo

Hi Donald,

You probably don't see the need for claying, because you have never let your baby get into a condition that needs it. When I purchased Emma 2 years ago, she had resided in SoCal for nine years and I don't think she had been waxed very often. There were a lot of particles and polution imbedded in the paint. I could wash and wax it until I was blue in the arm, but when I ran my hand over it, I could FEEL the imperfections. I then tried the clay. It was just amazing. Before claying, when rubbing your hand over the paint, you could actually hear it...after claying, it was silent. And you could REALLY feel the difference. Much smoother. And she shined up much better. Claying does have its purpose, but is only needed if your paint is contaminated....then, it's hard to discribe what a difference it will make.

__________________
Steve

1992 300CE Sportline Sophie
1990 300E Emma - in the family
1979 240D Josephine - sold, but not forgotten
2004 Pacifica AWD

http://web.mac.com/dakota/Mercedes/Home.html

I see your actions fit the need.
Having bought my W124030 new you are right I never let the paint get to the condition to need claying just repainting.
If the surface is as you say, you might consider burnishing the wax instead of apply, let haze over then polishe off the residue.
I can use a small square of towelling for all of the top surfaces.
The more it becomes ladened with wax the better the clear coat shines.
Oh well to each his own.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from always different Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo

Donald, Sounds like you do good work. You can come over any time and wax my car.I also wax about as often but add one thing. I use the clay and then a polish (meguires)maybe once a year or so. I see a deeper look to the finish after the polish. It also helps remove swirl marks that may start to appear. As long as you can t feel any roughness to the finish when the car is clean you probably don t need the clay (step 1). Mark

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98 E430(sport), 99 ML 320 (sold) , 05 C 230(sport) Mark

As you've already guessed, I keep Him pretty heavily waxed.
If there were rough areas in the paint, the burnishing technique surpasses the need for claying.
I learned this technique while in High school in a wood finishing class. Burnish!
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo

Good to hear a normal discussion about waxing the car. Also, I'm interested to hear that ymsin likes Autoglym. This is a premium product in the UK, but previously all I've heard discussed have been Meguiars and Zymol (the former not widely available in the UK, the latter hideously, ridiculously expensive and just silly to apply).

I'd like to know whether you chaps in the US have come across autoglym (www.autoglym.co.uk) and what you make of it. I use all of their products on my '98 C200, my mum's '00 SLK230, my father's 996C4 and our Range Rover (actually, that's so big and ugly I just take it to the car wash). In particular I use the shampoo conditioner for washing, super resin polish for regular waxing, and extra gloss protection for a big quarterly clean up. I love cars and thoroughly enjoy cleaning them--feeling less odd for reading these posts!

I don't always use the high priced waxes.
I 've found little difference in any of the pure waxes when you don't allow the finish to become a basket case(a real dog).
As you've read I do my waxing different than most chaps.
As to "Autoglym", that is new to me, so I can't reply.
At the risk of sounding real El Cheapo, I've had good service from the Emerald Brand of carnabo wax by TURTLE WAX products. It's a little more chalky than Meguires or Mother's Gold Carnabo waxes but does quit well.
I imagine the key is to apply if frequently and not allow Mother Nature to take her rath out on our beloved Benzes.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from (a former VM Engineer in Luton) and Houston.
Donald El Cheapo

High priced waxes don't always give you the results sought after.

But I think the color and paint of the car shall have a bearing on the kind of waxes to use. My Metallic Silver W126 and Tan-Brown W124 are relatively easy to maintain.

However, the white W123 requires more attention and regular waxing. Once waxed, the white glitters with such purity. However, ignored and the wrath shows gleamingly.

__________________
... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

I too have had white cars(Benz) and they do shine and glisen.
Let them go chalky and they are hard to return the shine.
In my experience it was because there was no clear coat topping, just plain old white paint.
Happy Trails beep beep from Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo

Yes Donald, thats quite right. Now the white paint comes with a clear coat topping (something like what my brother's W123 has). Even then, you could tell it needed a wax much more than a metallic finish.

Btw - the new Whites coming out now are really really WHITE. And I hear they're quite easy to keep without much fuss.

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... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

I think you guys are right. Once you get the finish cleaned or restored,just about anything will do a good job.

I do think there are products that do better on darker colors. Also, from what I have read, here and other forums, German finishes don't like waxes that contain polymers.

Of course, if you show your car, then the differences may be significant enough to be concerned. But, for the daily driver, whatever you like, or is on sale should do just fine. The main thing is, get the paint clean and smooth, then protect it.

Keep an eye on my wax comparison test and we'll see if anything comes up superior to the rest.

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

When's the next comparison result coming out next? And could I bring my 300se over for a quickie test too?

__________________
... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

A couple of weeks. Hey, you get it here and I'll detail it for free.

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)