All this information out there has me confused... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Tomguy · #1 09-01-2006, 09:55 PM

Alright, here's the low-down on what's going on.

I have a maroon 92 Jeep Cherokee that I'm going to be using for the daily driver for work for at least 2 months. Before I do start using it, I'd like to have it look halfway decent. I have not yet purchased a buffer, I was thinking this would do the trick. (Let me know if I'm way off or not!)

The paint has a "Chaulky" appearance to it on the doors and rear lift gate. The rear gate is fiberglass, I don't think the paint is coming off on it, but it's probably thin. I was able to get the hood to a nice shine using rubbing compound followed by wax (both by hand), but it did leave swirl marks. I see according to all those detailing guides that polish will help with this.

There are SO many types of polishes on meguire's site, I don't know where to begin. Honestly, the finish on the gate looks like CRAP, but I'd rather have crap than no paint at all. Most of the car doesn't shine at all, and looks chaulky even right after a wash. I wouldn't even waste the time TRYING to wax it because I'm sure it'd look like crap in less than a day anyway (if it helped at all). I figure that, because there are MANY people here on this MB forum that have their cars looking so beautiful, that I can get advice on what to do. Now, my roof needs to be repainted, I know there's no way of getting around it (primer showing by the looks of it - but the paint up there doesn't look maroon, rather almost pink - I'll grab pics in the daytime). It needs some rust repair which I'll take care of soon enough when I get the right color silver paint to do that and the rear bumper. My plastic trim along the doors which is supposed to be painted this same silver is all faded and looks like crap.

Anyway, I'll cut the intro and start with the questions, of which I have plenty:

1) How do I prepare the plastic to be painted? It's rough-textured on the doors, I can do the wheel trim pieces easily enough I believe, those are smooth.
2) Is there any special procedure to actually painting the plastic? Special paint? It's supposed to be the exact same color as the metal around it, as well as the bumpers and wheel arches (dark silver).
3) Will a fine polishing compound (such as Meguiar's "Fine cut cleaner") remove the swirl marks on my hood? Should I use a polisher or do it by hand?
4) Will a heavy cut cleaner remove the deep scratches and chaulky paint on the doors, or do I need rubbing compound, THEN a heavy cut cleaner, THEN a fine cut cleaner? Again, hand or polisher, and for which stages (rubbing by hand, then polisher for the polish?)
5) Will a heavy cut cleaner - or a fine one for that matter - remove the finish from my fiberglass liftgate?
6) What is the best process to deal with dents from car and truck mirrors? I'll provide pics of these later as well.

This Jeep has been exposed to 14 years of harsh NEPA weather. Sun, salt, snow, acid rain, etc. It has 162k miles on it but still runs great, and I want it to look great too. The interior is pretty decent considering how much crap has been hauled in it (as well as how many times my father has spilled coffee in it - well into the hundreds!) What is the best way to remove coffee or dirt stains from fabric seats, and from the carpet (if they differ) - I have a (Bissel) carpet shampooer and a mini one too. I got a new front grille from the junkyard as well as a rear bumper (that will need painting to match my color). I figure since I'm going to keep this Jeep a while I might as well make it look decent. It's been mine since ~'98 or so. It shone like new when I got it and was one hell of a sharp looking vehicle!

Oh, and I'm pretty sure it has no clearcoat, or that'd be peeling away.

Tomguy · #2 09-02-2006, 05:37 PM

A few pics:
#1 is the jeep in question (that my friend Kate named "Jeepylicious" and I am a firm believer in not naming my own vehicles, and keeping the first name unless someone else like a new girl forces a new name)
#2 shows the rear passenger quarter and 3 issues: The chaulky paint (specifically around the 4x4, the bottom half is quite dirty), the silver metal that needs repainting, and the plastic trim below it that needs repainting. There are finger marks from where I drew with water on it (it still looks chaulky even under that). You can actually see my reflection in the pic too, somehow. The pinstriping is going, too. If anyone has recommendations on how to remove that garbage, I'm all ears.
#3 shows heavy scratches under the pitted door handles. Maybe I'll ask the dealer about how much new handles cost - but that is highly dependent upon how shiny I can get the paint first. I'm not going to spend the money on handles if it will need a whole paintjob! Also, there is clearcoat peeling on the roof, therefore I do assume the whole vehicle DOES have clearcoat. Will I need to rub through it, or is the clearcoat the cause of the chaulk?

suginami · #3 09-02-2006, 06:41 PM

Just looking at those scratches in the last picture makes me believe you are going to need a direct drive rotary buffer to remove them. It ain't gonna happen with a random orbital. Random Orbitals oscillate in a random orbital pattern and also have a clutch built in to prevent it from spinning when you apply any downward pressure. It then becomes a jiggle machine, and doesn't do any work.

However, random orbitals are great at applying polish and wax. It's much easier than by doing it by hand.

But for removing serious paint defects like you have, you're going to need a rotary buffer.

For removing the oxidation, deep scratches, and swirl marks, I'd go with Meguiar's professional line of products in the tan bottles.

Go to www.meguiars.com to see all the products they have.

Personally, I'd start with #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, and then step down to #80 speed glaze, and then apply #7 show car glaze (a pure polish), and then a wax / sealant like NXT.

Tomguy · #4 09-02-2006, 08:05 PM

Paul: Those heavy scratches are only under the door handles. The rest of it is just norma wear and tear (well, as normal as can be I suppose). Those won't bug me too much if I can't get them off - and since I'll have to remove the handles to polish around them they're definetly not that high priority. Basically, I want it to look good as opposed to alright. Anything more than a shine is a great bonus. I don't expect a glossy mirror that easily!

Ethan · #5 09-02-2006, 08:23 PM

I've buffed out scratches (seems similar to your pictures) on my door handles using zaino cleaner (zaino z-pc which always needs to be followed with polish). And i'd try a couple coats of quality polish (P-21) to see if the clouding goes away.

When it comes to contoured panels I like mulitple hand application rather then mechanical intervention.

Tom McMenamin · #6 09-27-2006, 01:16 AM

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php

That paint is not that bad! I just did my wife's Jag over the weekend and she had worse.

Go to the above site and research! Random buffer, (Porter Cable) is a great investment. Go to Griot's gargae and get one (their brand) for $129.

Go to Zaino web site and get Clay, Detailer, and Z5 plus quick flash additive.

Go to roadfly and get paint cleaning instructions. I like 3M but there are others.

Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean the paint before you do anything! Work your butt off on removing scratches and Clean the paint. Did I say clean the paint?

Then polish with Zaino and Follow The Instructions!!!!!!!!

www.zaino.com

I spent a day on the Jag. I am just getting my arms back today. I used the buffer so by hand your wasting your time.

Good Luck! Let us know how it turns out!!

Don't forget to clean the paint first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yal · #7 09-27-2006, 08:33 PM

^^He's right that paint is not bad at all!

If you want to try this by hand here is what you do...

The chauky paint is probably some oxidation, try a local auto store and pick up Meguiars Color X. Its a great way to remove oxidation and bring the color back. Its not a color wax the name is a misnomer. Its just a really good paint cleaner thats highly underated and its not a lot of work if you apply it with a terry cloth applicator with a little pressure. You'll be amazed at the oxidation that ends up on the pads. Top it of with your favorite wax.

The scratches is another matter. Meguiars Scratch X can do it but you better have arms like Popeye, it will take you a few hours per panel. Best to get a PC but I have seen car pictures of people who have done it by hand and I was amazed. Also the area is small so hand may be better.

I would try these products first because they are cheap and effective. Do this before you go with the online stuff.