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  #1  
Old 05-26-2001, 12:21 AM
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Hi. I looked through the forum and I didn't find anything regarding my situation. I have a daily driver 1966 230SL that I purchased last year. I don't feel that the re-paint job is that good of quality as there is overspray on door handles and chrome trim. If they didn't bother to remove those, what other quality corners did they cut? I want to make a general improvement in the paint finish, I'm not looking for a car show finish. I need to give the paint a good cleaning and scrubbing as it is dull, splotchy (oxidized?), has mild spots and streaks stained into it, and looks generally neglected. I don't know what the spots and streaks are from, but it could be anything from engine fluids, WD-40, soda spills, tree sap, etc. What's the best way to scrub the the paint down to a fresh layer? If I shop around for a shop to do it, what kinds of questions should I ask to find a quality shop? Am I leaving anything out?

Thanks,

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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2001, 12:35 AM
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Down to the Wear Bars
 
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The thread at Paint Spots talks about using a clay bar and quick detailer or final Inspection to remove paint spots and overspray and anything else on the surface of the paint. the DIY tab above has a description on how to clay your car under "Lee's detailing FAQ". I would follow the FAQ going with the clay, then #9 and #7 to remove stuff IN the paint, then see how you like it before waxing. You may need color sanding, but the above steps are less expensive and worth a try first - you can get more aggressive later if need be.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2001, 12:47 AM
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OK. I read that now. Can you use a "bar" on the whole car? It sounds like something just for trouble spots. It sounds very labor intensive to do the whole car with a bar. People on this site seem to like Meguiar's products, do they make a clay scrubbing bar?

Thanks,
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2001, 12:59 AM
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OK. I found Lee's Detailing FAQ. He says "The clay is great for cleaning things ON your paint. The polish and swirl removers clean things IN your paint." It sounds like I need some #9 swirl remover and a strong arm. Is it dangerous for a novice to use an orbital, specially on paint of unknown quality? I could probably find someone I know who would have one I could borrow.

Thanks,
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2001, 01:02 AM
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I believe so, but I think a few people said it wasn't as good as the "Clay Magic" bar - too soft, but that "Meguiars's Quick detailer or Final Inspection" were the best lubricants to use instead of the one that comes with the Clay Magic - they felt that even water was better and less streaking than the lube that comes with clays.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2001, 03:15 AM
Johnson Chan
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If you do use #9 swirl remover, make sure you do one section at a time, that stuff is a pain in the a$$ to remove.

I am looking for something else for swirl marks cause #9 is ok but way too much elbow grease.
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2001, 06:38 AM
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You might consider a professional detailer if your car paint is in really bad shape. I am having mine done in preparation for a Mercedes Benz Club Car show in a few weeks. I went to the detailer ahead of time and asked to see some of thier work. As it happened someone had a late 70s 300D in for full exterior and interior detailing. I had a chance to see it in the morning before they worked on it and came back later before they closed to see the finished product, and it was an amazing transformation. I was quoted $250 Canadian for a full exterior, and $75 for interior (I maintain the leather myself with Leatherique so it needs no work). It may sound a bit pricey, but I figure I can have this kind of work done every 2 years or so and what they did for that 300D... it went from looking like one that was owned by someone who didn't appreciate it to looking like it could take 1st place in a club show and shine (not a concours mind you, but people really clean their cars up well for these events).
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2001, 11:53 AM
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I just clayed mine for the first and it does remove everything allowing for the polishes and swirl removers to do their stuff. It is not any more labor intensive than any other step in the process. I used Zainos and have found it to be superior over anything I've used in the past, including Mequiar's.

You need copious amount of water when claying. Print out Lee's detailing tips and Zaino's has several very good pages of tips on using all products: http://www.zainobros.com. I first washed it with dawn, then clayed it using dawn and water as the ;ube and it worked wonders. My clay was very black from oxidation, and other "stuff". Yes, do the whole car!

If you want to try Zaino's I suggest Z1, Z2, Z5 and Z6. You can use Z7 if you need a cleaner after you've conditioned your paint, and then of course the clay.

Take your time, allow yourself a day to do a really good job, follow the directions and you will not be disappointed!
For a little time and effort it is a way to really make your car stand out and shine, plus they always run better!

Good luck!
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2001, 12:06 PM
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You can use a "Random Orbital" polisher and not worry about damaging the finish. There are some really goodr/expensive ones. I went to Wallmart and bought a $20.00 one. It works great!

The better ones are a good idea if you do this for a living, but for a once a month polish/wax, the cheap ones work fine. I have a large one and a small polisher. I like the small one because it gets into the smaller areas better, yet it's big enough for the hood, roof ect.



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