My 84 190E runs well but looks like it has been though a war. Its black but the fenders are getting milky at the tops.

Would compounding alone help?
What over the counter products would help?

__________________
Patrick Leber
'84 190E 2.3
'83 Porsche 944 (track car)
'84 Porsche 944 (parts car)
85.5 Porsche 944 (sled)

Check under Detailing FAQ. But briefly,
1.Wash the car with Dawn dish soap (this time only, it'll strip your wax).

2. Clay enire car. This sounds hard but it's easy and takes 15 min. Most recommend Clay Magic, I use Meguires, works fine and cost 1/2 as much.

3. Clean paint. Meguires #9 or I like Waxshop Safe Cut. You can do by hand or I like a random orbital buffer. It won't burn paint. You can spend $100+ or do like me and go to Wallmart and get a $20.00 one. I prefer the 6 inch size.

4. Polish, Meguires #7 by hand or your buffer. Don't use too much.

5. Wax, They're all pretty good. I did a side by side comparison and there are waxes that do better on certain colors, but they all do what you want, protect the paint. I like Eagle One and Turtle Wax Emerald. They're all good, stay away from waxes that use polymers and acrylics. German paint doesn't seem to like them.

Since your car is black, take your time and follow technique in FAQ. To keep it looking good, wash once a week with a good auto car wash soap. Wax once a month. In between, use Meguires Qiuck detailer or Eagle One Wet Detailer everytime you wash.

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

Any car would look as good as new under Bill's guidance.

For better results on waxing, I'd recommend leaving the wax on for about half an hour before buffing it off.

Use a buffer for even spread and finer finish.

Ps. And don't be discouraged by the first compound application as its bound to be a tough and patient job. But its well worth it.

__________________
... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

i have never done any of the things mentioned above, and my 1989 260E needs a paintjob because you can see the swirls in the paint and little cracks near trim and things. however i dont have the money for a paintjob. i want to try this method out, but i am nervous that i will ruin the paint and i will be unhappy when its done. Everyone talks about this clay but i dont know exactly what it does. if an amature would attempt this process, would i be able to pull it off successfully and would the paint look like new?

I had never done these things either, especially the buffer part, so I tried them out on my oldest car first. These are safe products when applied by hand or with a random orbit buffer. Don't use any other kind of buffer or you MAY mess up the paint. The #9 with a random orbital will take out fine swirl marks, but not the medium or deep ones. The clay just removes junk on the surface - if you keep it lubed as described in the FAQ it will be fine. It is really a lot easier than the description implies, especially with a random orbit buffer - then it is only about 3-4 hours work for the whole thing. By hand, plan on a weekend project. It may not make the car look showroom new, but it will be a lot better! After you do this, any problems left will require professional attention. A GOOD bodyshop may be able to colorsand and re-clearcoat the paint back to life for a lot less than a paint job if these steps aren't enough. Keep us posted!

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

Well, maybe not that old, since it had been repainted at some time..but...
my 1969 250 has some weird paint. The color is dunke-olive (<--something like that) which is a somewhat dark green color. In the shade it looks very dark in the sun it looks very light.

It's pretty shiny overall and has some surface scratch-like swirls....but what struck me was the "milky" description. Mine is like that too. Mine spots really badly too.

I tried to use finish 2000 (I know....bad) and the car didn't like it. I had used it before on another car and it worked wonders....I didn't know that German paint was so special!! The car was thoroughly washed beforehand, but the product buffed off GREEN!!! Do you think it ate my paint???

And one more question...what is this clay product??

~Christy

...pay a competent detailer, then maintain the finish yourself

its well worth the $$$ to have it professionally detailed to bring it back to life, ....

-fad

It didn't eat your paint, what the green reidue indicates is that your paint is not clearcoated. It wasn't done back then, at least not on many, if any OEM finishes.

You can pay someone to restore your finish, or read and follow Lee's detail FAQ and your sure to have good results. It's a

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

I became a MB owner for the first time about 3 weeks ago (1994 E320), and got to this forum through buying a taillight lens from MercedesShop.com.

The midnight blue paint on my car came with the normal wear and tear I'd expect on a 7-year-old car - a few chips, surface scratches, lot's of swirls. The paint also looked very cloudy. I assumed I'd either have to live with the car that way or re-paint it - not something I was about to spring for.

But yesterday I came across this forum, the detailing FAQs and Mr. Bill's post. I went out and bought all the stuff, did as instructed and by yesterday evening had what looked to me like an almost new paint job! No swirls, minimized scratches and a rich, deep blue color. For anyone nervous about undertaking a project like this, don't be. A little work - fantastic results.

Next project - my wife's new 1981 380SLC. But here's the question: Some of the products I used yesterday were specifically for cars with clear coat paint. Is her original 1981 paint clear coat or not. When did MB begin using cc?

Thanks,
Jim

Gentlemen,

Keep talking 'til I get through this on a dark blue 89 560SEL..... I washed, cleaned (Meguiar's 4), a light bit of polishing compound on a bad spot or two, rain spots appear to be gone, using totally new unwashed all cotton terry and then polishing cloths with an random orbital buffer...... and it's hazy- noticably so. Have only done the hood and trunk. Can wax get old and go bad? It's been in uncontrolled climate for several years, but I have had great luck with it in the past (Liquid Glass). I have had relatively little paint come off on the towels, since the car only has 70K miles and is indoors 99% of the time, so I don't fear the paint quality. If I need to reclean and try newer wax, or anything else, let me know.

Okay- got the haze gone. Used a Meguiar's polish and it looks better. What do y'all recommend putting on top of it?

Tried Mr. Bill's procedure on my Midnight Blue 420SEL - brought the original paint back to life significantly, and also rid the finish of some soap stains from a careless attendant. I had to substitute the Meguires 7 with a different cleaner (without a number) from Meguires - my auto store didn't have the recommended product.

Is Meguires "Quick Clay" just as good as.. regular clay?

__________________
2003 S500 Black/Charcoal
1990 560SEL 61k Arctic White/Grey

SOLD:
1988 420SEL Black/Palomino Sold @ 85k
1987 420SEL Midnight Blue/Grey
1986 420SEL Diamond Blue/Grey
1983 380SEL Champagne/Palomino

I have a '91 midnight blue 560SEL (105k miles) and the paint was a little cloudy with swirl marks. No scratches luckily...

Anyhow, the wife and I spent most of a Saturday using the same process and products (except for claying) as Mr. Bill's (also the detailing FAQ). The car came out great!! We didn't use an orbital buffer, all done by hand. (I'm too cheap :p )