New to detailing - Info and Questions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Squabble · #1 04-20-2009, 11:19 AM

hey all, as stated i'm new to detailing in general and have some questions for you all. yes, i've done a search already, but all the threads make mention of the fact that everyone is in a different place as far as their needs, so i figured i'd do my own post and see if you can help me get specific to my car.

first of all, the car, an '83 300D, Labrador Blue (not China Blue as it looks nowadays). pics are here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1981. the issues i have are basically that the car has not been detailed or babied very much as it spent the first part of its life in florida and texas. it simply looks "faded." the PO called it "oxidation." there also seem to be a couple of spots or splotches that are whitish over the paint, almost like water stains but they are in the paint, not on the surface. there are also a couple of minor scratches and a couple chips here and there. basically, everything looks dull and i want to get it good and clean, bring out the paint and shine, and seal it up well.

i'm wondering what to do and what order to do it in. also, i'd like to do this by hand and not with power tools, if at all possible. an acquaintance told me: wash, dry, clay bar, polish, wax. is this correct? should i use some kind of rubbing compound too? i've got tire black for the tires and rubber parts on the bumpers and a chrome polish for the trim. just need to really know what order to do it all in and what types of products to use. thanks for the help!

Dee8go · #2 04-20-2009, 07:52 PM

It sounds like you're on the right track. The clay bar and polish should help. Blue and red are the most prone colors to oxidize and those are two very sunny places.

Cal Learner · #3 04-21-2009, 10:36 AM

Your acquaintance gave you the right steps. Yes, the polishing step can be done by hand, although machine polishing generally gives a more even result, and if the finish is as neglected as you say, hand polishing will lead to aching arms and fingers. If polishing by hand, use a polish intended for that; otherwise use a machine polish. An NO rubbing compound. You probably already know this, but it's always worth reminding ourselves: how shiny the finish is and how vibrant the color appears when you're finished, is entirely dependent on the polishing step.

Without seeing the car, I can only guess at what you described as whitish spots that look like water stains in the paint. However, I have detailed cars with what may be the same condition, and it always happened to southern cars that spent much or all of the time outside, not garaged. If those spots are dull when the car is washed and dried, it's probably deteriorated clear coat, and the correct fix for that is repainting. If, on the other hand, the spots are not dull, but merely cloudy, the problem is in the clear coat and can be reversed with careful detailing. In the latter case, the temptation may be to do a prolonged polishing with an agressive polish and "take care of the problem" all at once. Resist that temptation, and do a thorough, but not excessive polishing, perhaps using a mid-range polish (Sonus SFX-2 or Menzerna Final Polish II, or similar). Then put a good grade of carnauba wax or synthetic sealant (anything that does not contain silicone) on it for protection from the elements. That will take care of the "oxidized" appearance generally, and make the color bright and vibrant again. Over a period of the next 4-6 months, repeat the polishing step only in the area of the cloudy spots of the car several times, and re-apply wax/sealant to those spots after every time. This will make incremental improvements in the cloudy spots in a safe manner, and eventually, that cloudiness will disappear completely.

Squabble · #4 04-21-2009, 11:07 AM

^^^ THAT'S good info! Thanks for the help, I can't wait to get started!

matthias08 · #5 04-21-2009, 06:11 PM

PS. "Kit" Scratch remover, comes in a yellow bottle, is LOVE.

apply freely, I use an applicator pad, and a couple microfiber cloths. .

removes some light stuff, door scuffs etc.

pmari · #6 04-21-2009, 10:20 PM

I had a badly oxidized 300SD and used this product as directed. Worked great by hand.

http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Products.asp?ProductID=4

Nuvite NuPol is the high-power drywash cleaner for those really tough situations - dull, dirt-catching oxidized paint, stained & oxidized gelcoat, baked-on thrust reverser “carbon rings”, turbine exhaust trails, and wherever you need to perform “appearance magic!”
Nuvite NuPol is easy to use. Just mop on with spun cotton scrub pad, agitate (more agitation removes more dirt and oxidation) to a thin layer and let dry. Then wipe off dry haze to reveal a clean, shiny and U/V-protected paint surface. Follow with Nuvite NuPower II for more gloss and protection.

NuPol frees up your time, shop manhours, manpower -and in commercial carrier maintenance operations, keeps aircraft movement down, with in-place cleaning during other maintenance procedures. NuPol requires no water or mess that interferes with other maintenance operations. Nuvite's NuPol can restore paint appearance and your heavy maintenance cleaning schedule at the same time!