Repaint vs Buffing
 

Paid for a $175 paint buffing ,really thought it was in need of a new paint , 3 hrs latter,it was a remarkable job.Some touch up paint ,a wheel repaint job and it will be presentable again.Originally $75 was going to get the job done ,but he had to use 3 wool pads and a full bottle of compound.

Before and after pictures?

I can testify that a REAL detail -- we are talking 1+ hours a panel can completely revitalize paint. You need to first wash, completely dry then claybar each section until it is like glass. Once this is done you can use compound to remove light scratches and pollution deep into the paint. This should take several applications and a good strong elbow. Once done the paint should be waxed properly and it should feel absolutely remarkable.

^ Agree, a REAL (day or multi-day job) detail can transform old, neglected paint.

If you got through the whole process in 3 hours and paid $175, you not only got a bargain, but got your car back in record time. I've done detailing for lots of years, and even using a direct drive circular buffer (not recommended for DIY weekend detailers), that's fast.

A word of caution to others with badly neglected paint. Use of any product with the word "compound" in the name should be avoided. They are liquid sandpaper. Polishing "compound" is for removing scratches put there by wet sanding, not for routine color correction, including oxidation and haze. Good quality polishes come in various grades of abrasiveness, all less than what one gets in a compound. Start on one panel with a mid- or finish-grade polish first, and only move up to the most aggresive-grade polish if the gentler polishes don't produce the desired results. And, contrary to belief, even with a random orbital buffer, it is possible to damage your paint by not keeping the pad damp enough at all times.

+1 (I like this shorthand)

This really takes a lot of practice, and you do NOT want to practice on YOUR car. The problem I've found, is that the stuff that actually works in a reasonable amount of time with a reasonable effort (not the junk at the parts store) is very, very easy to get into trouble with. I think finding a "friendly" junkyard and a portable gas-powered generator for run your buffer would be just the ticket to some practice with.

You are right Cal Learner, but I believe with a conservative approach and the correct product, a compound can be used to an advantage.

My paint was highly scratched and dull and although paint cleaner, claybar and polished removed some of the dullness, it was not where I wanted it to be. I used Meguiars Ultimate Compound in small amounts and it really made a big difference. I suggest though that UC be the last resort on the paint as there are plenty of less abrasive products such as ScratchX, SwirlX or even ColorX as the least abrasive. Your elbow-work is the most important part of the process as it will not revive in a 10minute job. It requires some damn hard work, but it pays off.

The main thing to make sure is to wax once the panel is clean because you just removed all the contaminants and pollution from the deepest pores, so protect it from here on out!

There is nothing that you can't do with your arm that the buffer can do. It just takes longer and is more painful, but you can't screw it up this way.