Ok, I posted some time back that my BEA--U--TIFUL 1991 190E (Black) is perfect in all aspects EXCEPT that the previous owner evidently parked in an estruary. So, the horizontal body parts (hood, roof, trunk lid) have several clouded spouts that are the results of the etching from the birds*&t. This is not ON the paint, it is IN the paint.

Compounds do not work -- evidently, not deep enough. SO, my two options are these: Get it repainted OR wet sand, compound, polish, and bring back the shine.

#1 -- How "deep" is the clearcoat?
#2 -- If I have to get into the color, will the gloss come back as shiny as the clearcoated parts?
#3 -- Who has done this SUCCESSFULLY? What sandpaper did you use? 3M 2000 and 2500 grit?
#4 -- What are the next steps, after 2500 grit, to get it back to gloss? I DO use a very good orbital buffer.
#5 -- Uh, what do you do about the curved areas?

I feel like I have nothing to lose.

brookspw

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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

Meguire's has a special color sanding system that may be your solution. Check their web site. The key to color sanding is not going too far. As you wet sand a small area, take a small rubber squeegee and wipe the area you were sanding. As soon as you don't see any dark pin holes or dark spots in the surface, STOP and go to the next area. Stay 1/8" away from body lines and sharp edges and sand in the same direction the wind flows over the car.

Machine polishing can ruin the paint if you are not familiar with doing it. Too long on the same area can "burn" the paint. If the burned area isn't too deep, you can usually sand it out and polish again. Stay away from sharp body lines and trunk/hood seams.
A random orbital polisher is a better option as it is almost impossible to burn the paint.

You may want to pay a professional to do this job. It may cost a could hundred dollars, but a good paint job will cost 10-20 times that. Once they get things cleaned up, you can do the maintainance yourself.

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Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

Buy yourself a paint thickness gauge. There about $20.
normal factory paint with clear coat is 6mils of which 2 mils is the base coat. don't waste your time if the clear is too thin as you may go through the base . Then it's paint city. I use 2000grit and a spray bottle of water with a drop of dish soap for lubrication.

ps: if you find any color on the paper you hit the clear

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Ricali

03 C240 4matic wagon
95 300E 234,000
7 prior 240;s 5 still going
81 300sd gone
65 230sl gone
49 Studebaker Champion
90BMW convert.167,000
60 Dodge D-100

2000 grit is the best to start with on old paint. You may try and go as low as 1500 grit. I did to remove some scratches on my Nissan Quest and didn't go through the clear coat. If the bird droppings haven't completely gone through the clear coat, I believe you can get them out.
If they have, then forget it. Your clear coat is your only UV protection. Leaving your clear coat on and accepting some flaws in your paint is always the best solution.

I've seen paint shops frequently use 1000 grit to get out orange peel on freshly painted cars, but then again the paint is thick.

Also remember that your clear coat is just paint w/o pigment.

There have been at least two good discussions on color sanding in this section by me and another guy. Do a search and you'll see.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".