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Old 01-15-2002, 03:36 PM
jhaycee's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 29
Unhappy For Heavy Oxidation, Shall i use Zaino? Meguiar's? Zymol? P21S? 3M? or Zymol??

i just need some input with regards to removing some heavy oxidation on my trunk surface ??

190e 2.3
Euro Headlamps
Clear Corner Lens
White MB Seat Covers
Hard to maintain RED exterior
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Old 01-15-2002, 09:37 PM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,538
I really like 3M's professional line of products. I have seen them at a Pep Boys in 16 oz. black bottles. I have purchased the commercial sizes at a Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes store. It is the Perfect It - II line, fine cut compound. I've also purchased a compound called Liquid Ebony at this store that worked well.

For a common retail line, Meguiar's is the product of choice. Start out with their Paint Cleaner, then graduate to their gold class clear coat pep and swirl mark reducer, then use their gold class liquid or paste wax.

It is really hard to get out heavy oxidation by hand. Best to use a random orbital buffer. There is one made by Portal Cable that is also offered on Meguiar's website as well as's website. They also have all the foam attachments. Never use lambswool mitts, as they are too rough on the finish.

If you are an expert, you can try the DeWalt Electronic variable speed Orbital polisher. Problem is the motion is purely orbital and not random, and if you're not careful you can burn through the paint. I have used mine for years, but I'm also an at-home wood worker and have a lot of experience with power tools and sanding finishes on wood.

If you have extreme oxidation, you can color sand first. Again, you'll have to try an automotive finishes store that sells products to paint and body shops, or buy from Always start with the finest paper first, like 2000 grit. Soak in water for 15 minutes, than rub on a wet surface. You may try 1500, but then you'll have to finish with 2000, then go to a fine cut compound, then go to a fine polish like Meguiar's gold class clear coat prep and swirl mark reducer.

Don't forget when you use these products your taking away old layers of paint to reveal 'clean' paint underneath, and you only have so much paint. Of course your top coat is clear coat, which is just paint without pigment. Try not to go through your clear coat, which is your paints only protection agains UV radiation.

Sometimes it is best to leave some scratches in your clear coat instead of getting rid of them and then your left with no protection.

Sorry to go so long, buy my dad used to be a car painter, and I'm a fanatic on keeping my cars detailed.

Good Luck!
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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Old 01-16-2002, 10:35 AM
brookspw's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 551
Sounds like you know from experience. Can you walk me through the post-sanding finishing procedure? I have good experience detailing with a random orbital buffer, but haven't brought one back from wet-sanding yet.

I am assuming that you compound, polish, wax. It is the first step that I need the most help on. Thanks

1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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Old 01-17-2002, 03:32 PM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,538
applying compound with a random orbital buffer is just like applying polish or wax.

Color sanding leaves very fine scratch marks all over your paint. Put your car under flourescent light and you can really tell.

As your going from color sanding (from 1500 grit to 2000 grit), to compound, to fine-cut compound, to polish, your taking away the heavier scratches and leaving finer ones. It's the same principal as when your sanding wood. You start out with rough sandpaper, and end up with very fine sandpaper, leaving the finish like glass.

3M micro finish rubbing compound gets rid of I think grade 1200 sand scratches, medium oxidation, etc.

You'd then go to 3M Finess-it II fine cut rubbing compound, which gets out the fine scratches the micro finish rubbing compound left.

You'd then go to a polish to add gloss, then wax.

I'm sure this stuff is available on line somewhere. Try and see where that takes you.
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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