After reading numerous threads on the forum and massive amounts of articles online, I am left confused. I get confused on what grit sand paper to use and how long to do it for. I am looking for a simple, straight forward answer.

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2001 E55

2001 E320 Sedan

2001 Subaru Legacy

2006 SLK280

2016 Subaru Outback 3.6

There is no straightforward answer, and we need to know "at what step", and with what system of paint.

For example, if you have done a basecoat/clearcoat with two-part urethane paint, and you are trying to flatten the finish to eliminate orange peel, block sanding with 1500-4000 grit is usually done, depending on "how bad" it is and "how perfect" you want it - and depending on the available thickness of the clearcoat, and how skilled you are at avoiding the edges and/or "going through", which can be fairly catastrophic. The important aspects are ABSOLUTE CLEANLINESS and lots and lots of water and a tiny bit of detergent - and soaking the sandpaper in water/detergent BEFORE it ever hits the car. At these grits and new finish, it's very easy to leave a BIG scratch with dry sandpaper or even the tiniest speck of whatever between the paint and sandpaper.

What happens with single-stage urethane or other systems is very different.

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86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

X2 ^^^^

Giving the paint time to dry helps too!

Post some pictures Two560Two - or tell us what you are doing.

As a general rule - if you are in the process of just giving it a go - use the finest grade paper you've got and experiment a bit. You'll soon the get the hang of it after you'd just resprayed the panel for the 14th time...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Agree with all that's been said. I'd add only this--BE PATIENT. Don't even think of rushing through the job by trying to get it all done in one attempt. Even experts don't do that. Do a little bit on one panel, then wipe the treated surface and check for the tell-tale spotting of orange peel, before doing a bit more, and so on. You may actually do the same panel 4-5 times in small, light stages before the paint texture is smooth and you move on to polishing and buffing to restore luster. Also, be sure to use only a random-orbital buffer in the polishing phase, and keep the surface moist with polish and/or detailing spray. Overheating the clearcoat during polishing leads to grief!

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1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't

ok here is the scoop. The paint on my car is not in the best shape. There are stains and the clear coat is dull which gives the car a dull look but when the sun hits the paint, the paint still shines. There are also alot of fine scratches in the paint. I already had the car compounded and polished which helped but after a few months, concern happened again and also after the job I could also still see stains and such which I would presume that the job was not done right

I was told by 3 detailing shops to try wet sanding the paint then compound and polish again. Did I get inaccurate or wrong information?

Take a look at the pic attached. I dont think you can really see the imprefections but you can tell the paint needs help

Attached Thumbnails

 

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2001 E55

2001 E320 Sedan

2001 Subaru Legacy

2006 SLK280

2016 Subaru Outback 3.6

Stains? Do you suspect that the car has been repainted? Or are they like tree sap stains?

The problem you have is that every process you mention is removing a bit of the clear coat / paint. At some point or other you are going to run out of the stuff - then you will have to repaint.

Wet sanding is going to remove the most - polishing should remove the least(!)...

I recommend that you take your car to somewhere with a good reputation. This will probably mean somewhere expensive.

Perhaps someone here can recommend somewhere?


Please note - 3 shops have recommended something that it seems that they are not prepared to do - tread carefully!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

over here that is standard procedure for older cars exposed to sun
sand paper grit 2000+ and 2-3 stage polish. BUT if you dont have a polish device
(600rpm for novice or 1200+rpm for pro)
and no previous experience with this procedure you can easily, very
easily burn rest of coat/paint.

anyways,dont do circles or you will make swirls.

cheers

.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered