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  #1  
Old 04-13-2002, 01:40 PM
Peyton300TD's Avatar
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Location: Marina Del Rey, CA
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Angry Meguires Wax, the waxing process

hey all!

below is how ive been waxing my car with great results. except for the last step using Meguiars Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax. it would leave this streakiness in the paint that was so hard to get off! i don't know if i got a bad bottle or if it's hard to do on black paint or what. but it drove me nuts. i ended up just doing it on the hood and roof. i attached a picture of the roof so you can see what im talking about.

i was THOROUGHLY impressed with the zymol and will continue to use that. i just want a couple coats of protective wax on top of that which the zymol won't do.. because it is a cleaner wax meaning it strips the old wax and puts a new one on. any tips are welcome!

STEP ONE
Wash car thoroughly, being sure to loosen all dirt and contaminants embedded on surface of car. Dry as well as possible. I would recommend using Meguiars Soft Gel carwash, as I have had the best results appear from this product.

STEP TWO
Apply Meguiars Paint Cleaner to all painted surfaces of car, being sure to coat evenly and adequately with a clean, soft cloth.
This will remove contaminants, swirls, scratches and oxidation. Buff off and continue to step three.

STEP THREE
Apply Zymol Cleaner Wax.


STEP FOUR
Apply Meguiars Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax lightly and evenly to all surfaces using a soft, clean cloth.

To maintain the layers of protection and gloss that have been created
through these steps, use Meguiars Quick Detailer after and in between
washings of the vehicle. It safely removes and contaminants that may be
on the surface of the paint, and maintains the layer, shine, and gloss of
the wax to lengthen the life
of its protection.

Attached Thumbnails
Meguires Wax, the waxing process-img_0700s.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2002, 12:34 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Canfield, Ohio
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I have been using Meguiars Gold Class Wax since it first came out about 4 years ago. Overall I have had great results with it. On the Smoke Silver 300E I use to own, it made the car look like it was wet! With my 450 SL I haven't quite got the "wet look" yet....but I am working at it.

Your procedures look good. As you know, Gold Class Wax is a wax that needs a surface prep first... My favorite is to use the Meguiars Cleaner Wax at least once if not twice and then top coat with Gold Class Wax. I also have found that using Zymol Cleaner Wax first (once or twice) and then top coating with Gold Class is another winning combination. (as you stated too)

I have always found the roof to be a tough area to work on. It is an area that takes a bunch of abuse from the elements and area that is often ignored by previous owners...

All of the above being said......I would take your roof and put Zymol on again and then Gold Class Wax...you may need a little more elbow grease. When the surface is "preped" properly, Meguiars Gold Class Wax works best when you let it dry completely (just as the bottle says). If you let it dry completely and it is still hard to buff off.....the surface needs more prep work.

On a side note....for the past 10 years I have been selling floor finishes (waxes) and I have found that you need to have depth to get the wet look. Now, some people may disagree with me, but I find car waxes to be the same way....the more coats of Gold Class Wax I put on (a properly preped surface) the more shine and wet look I get...

I hope my "ramblings" helped...

Oh, BTW, do not swirl the wax on....one of the reasons I don't use buffers and use my hand....especially on a black car, I would apply the wax with a front of car to back of car motion and visa versa.....another words the same direction as the wind travels. Just my opinion.

Mike
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Old 04-14-2002, 01:57 PM
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I used to put on several coats of Gold Class, and felt I was getting depth, until I called their customer service line and was told that Gold Class can't be "layered".

It has a lot of polishing oils in it, which obliterate the base coats when reapplying. So you're really just reapplying one coat over and over again.

If I remember correctly, they do have waxes that can be layered, and one of them is High Tech Yellow Wax. You have to wait at least 7 days in-between coats for the carnuba to completely harden.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2002, 01:58 PM
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You also want to apply the wax in the shade, perhaps inside the garage. Applying in the sun will dry the wax and basically cook it on, making it a real bear to remove.
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Last edited by MikeTangas; 04-14-2002 at 06:12 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2002, 04:29 PM
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As well as between washes, I have used Final Inspection and Quick detailer immediately after waxing - they seem to get any remaining wax dust left on the car. Between washes there seems to be a slight difference in Final inspection and Quick Detailer. They both seem to enhance the wax gloss and wet look, but the finish seems to look a little warm and buttery with Final inspection, and a little more cool/metal effect with the Quick Detailer product.
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2002, 05:13 PM
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Location: Canfield, Ohio
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Suginami.....you just hit the nail on the head!

I know (maybe you will agree on your car too) that the more I used Meguiars Gold Class on my Smoke Silver 300E the wetter it looked. So something was going on with the more coats we put on!

Maybe what we did was polished over and over again and then the last coat has some wax protection in it. The polishing with the oils is what was giving us depth.

It all makes more sense now!

BTW, I agree 100% with what someone said about following up with Quick Detail right after waxing! Some people will even use water.

Mike
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  #7  
Old 04-17-2002, 03:13 PM
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I use water rather than detailing spray. I've found water and detailer work similarly if the paint is maintained regularly with waxes.

It will remove smears and it helps to provide an even wax layer and give you that perfect shine.

I've yet to try the Z6 from Zaino so this may change my mind.

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