Best wax/polish

[bimmerland]

Just purchased a new 2015 C300 4matic. What is the best wax/polish to protect the new finish and give it a beautiful shine. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Zulfiqar]

go to a harley dealer, get a jar of S100 wax, really good stuff - the only bad side of it is that its not long life.

another option, order a bottle of collinite from amazon, its a real good product. There are some problems with it.

1 - read about it online how to correctly apply that wax, if you let it set too thick and dry out you will need to visit the doctor to heal your damaged shoulder after your'e done removing the wax coat.

2 - its a very thick liquid and very long life, make sure your paint surface is ready for wax, meaning remove any contaminants - if your car surface is a bit rough dont buff it out, clay it and then apply the wax.

Your new car will have a lot of road debris stuck to it, it collects it while sitting at the dealer and looking pretty.

[mytmousemalibu]

I would agree to hitting the car with a clay bar first.

Hard to beat Zymol, its pretty expensive but its good stuff! Used on a lot of very expensive and rare cars

ZYMOL CREAME WAX 8 oz

[Lucas]

Im a meguirs man. Maybe a little middle of the road. I used to have a small mobile detailing company. Is it Garetts garage? Ill lool after posting stuff. Thats top end ferarri status.

First and foremost. You wont need clay on a new car, or shouldnt. At most some sap or something may be on it. In which case 3M makes a prep liquid product that will remove any waxy type substances. Clay goes a little deeper to stuff actually ground into the paint.

If you do you clay, you can get swirl marks. In which case you may need to polish after. I like meguirs #7 for that.

As far as wax. A good long life is the pro model with a polymer in it. I just used that on my new car.

On moms car, the one step cleaner/polish/wax. 8 bucks and does a good job. Next time I'll go over anything with clay, then #7, then the polymer.

If you want a really nice shine, and like to do it often, i would go clay #7, then #26 high tech wax. Probably similar to the harley stuff.

Any cleaners, compounds, etc may leave swirls. But meguirs makes stuff #1- infinity almost. Gotta research your paint type and what works best.

Maybe they are talking about a different kind of clay than im thinking...

In regard to letting it sit to long, I work in the garage, and make sure it dries. Just hazy, but if you have a machine polisher. I have the harbor freight grinder type 10", and a 6" orbital.

I knock off most the wax with a terry rag. Dont try too hard. Repeat over the same spot lightly as opposed to pushing hard once. After its knocked down, I go over it with a wool pad and orbital. One that spins off center so you dont burn the clear coat. Not too fast. You can use the kind (excuse me not remembering the name) that spins like a grinder. Really easy to burn the clear coat. Tell your neighbor or mother in law you will wax their car to practice

Once you get it down, its easy. Once im just removing a little wax I spin that thing so fast I've had the wool pad blow apart. Not recommended.

Then i go over it with a diaper (detail type rag) for any tidbits.

Then I always use quick detailer liquid. Its zero protection, but the best shine. I use it every wash. With a diaper.

Ill see if I can find that link.

Edit:

www.griotsgarage.com/

If i had a 2015 benz... I drive a nissan. Probably should buy turtle wax.

[bimmerland]

Originally Posted by Lucas

Im a meguirs man. Maybe a little middle of the road. I used to have a small mobile detailing company. Is it Garetts garage? Ill lool after posting stuff. Thats top end ferarri status.

First and foremost. You wont need clay on a new car, or shouldnt. At most some sap or something may be on it. In which case 3M makes a prep liquid product that will remove any waxy type substances. Clay goes a little deeper to stuff actually ground into the paint.

If you do you clay, you can get swirl marks. In which case you may need to polish after. I like meguirs #7 for that.

As far as wax. A good long life is the pro model with a polymer in it. I just used that on my new car.

On moms car, the one step cleaner/polish/wax. 8 bucks and does a good job. Next time I'll go over anything with clay, then #7, then the polymer.

If you want a really nice shine, and like to do it often, i would go clay #7, then #26 high tech wax. Probably similar to the harley stuff.

Any cleaners, compounds, etc may leave swirls. But meguirs makes stuff #1- infinity almost. Gotta research your paint type and what works best.

Maybe they are talking about a different kind of clay than im thinking...

In regard to letting it sit to long, I work in the garage, and make sure it dries. Just hazy, but if you have a machine polisher. I have the harbor freight grinder type 10", and a 6" orbital.

I knock off most the wax with a terry rag. Dont try too hard. Repeat over the same spot lightly as opposed to pushing hard once. After its knocked down, I go over it with a wool pad and orbital. One that spins off center so you dont burn the clear coat. Not too fast. You can use the kind (excuse me not remembering the name) that spins like a grinder. Really easy to burn the clear coat. Tell your neighbor or mother in law you will wax their car to practice

Once you get it down, its easy. Once im just removing a little wax I spin that thing so fast I've had the wool pad blow apart. Not recommended.

Then i go over it with a diaper (detail type rag) for any tidbits.

Then I always use quick detailer liquid. Its zero protection, but the best shine. I use it every wash. With a diaper.

Ill see if I can find that link.

Edit:

www.griotsgarage.com/

If i had a 2015 benz... I drive a nissan. Probably should buy turtle wax.

Thanks for all the tips. Found a classic restoration shop nearby and their recommendations were wax if you don't keep it garage and polish if you do. I used to use #26 yellow wax but I'm going to try turtle wax ice. My local autozone now carries griots waxes so I'll try their products next.

[Zulfiqar]

when I bought my wife a new nissan - it was on the lot for about a week at max, but there was a heck of a lot of "stuff" stuck on the paint finish which happens when the dealer on the side of an interstate highway and is transported on a truck across states.

[Lucas]

Mine was on the lot 4 months. Slightly used model. It was clean.

Must be regional. Or the dealer takes different care.

But i agree. Dont wax over contaminents. And i must have a different type of clay. This stuff i have is for before the heaviest compound. Leaves swirls marks and hazing if aggressive enough.

A cleaner is a little less aggressive. Somewhere around a 5. But I like the 3M prep liquid. Wipe on and off.

Remember...

[Skid Row Joe]

I switched to their products several years ago. They work great and contain no harmful petrochemical fumes others have that are unhealthy for your lungs. The petroleum products also attract and hold dirt because of their oily nature.

[Lucas]

Which products?

PS, he said he picked a product so we can go hog wild in tangents.

[London380sl]

Nice present for somebody! I recommend Zaino. Great product. Easy to put on and take off, no residue, and it gives a awesome shine. My cars are 25 years plus and they still shine better than most 5 years old cars.

[babymog]

Old thread, I'm looking for suggestions.
I've been using Maguire's carnauba wax (liquid), need to reapply about every 3-4 weeks. Will the paste wax last longer? Is there a better product?
The paint stays glossy but it loses the hydrophobic beading propertirles and you can feel more friction sliding your hand over the paint so it seems to be disappearing.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by babymog

Old thread, I'm looking for suggestions.
I've been using Maguire's carnauba wax (liquid), need to reapply about every 3-4 weeks. Will the paste wax last longer? Is there a better product?
The paint stays glossy but it loses the hydrophobic beading propertirles and you can feel more friction sliding your hand over the paint so it seems to be disappearing.

The liquid "quick" versions tend not to last as long as the potted wax.

Getting the surface really clean is the first part and then applying the wax at an agreeable temperature is the second. Let the wax sit for a while so when you rub off a bit there's an "instant shine". If the wax is still smeary then you've probably got a wait a while longer.

[babymog]

Thanks.
The paint is very clean each time, I bought it new 5 months ago and the dealer had it properly detailed in the showroom, have been hand washing regularly and waxing as needed, ... every 3-4 weeks.
Smooth and shiny hasn't been a problem, but keeping a DEEP shine and water beading has (black).
I worked in a new dealership in my teens and we charged a lot for polymer wax application, not sure if that is the way to go.
I want something that will last at least a couple of months.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by babymog

Thanks.
The paint is very clean each time, I bought it new 5 months ago and the dealer had it properly detailed in the showroom, have been hand washing regularly and waxing as needed, ... every 3-4 weeks.
Smooth and shiny hasn't been a problem, but keeping a DEEP shine and water beading has (black).
I worked in a new dealership in my teens and we charged a lot for polymer wax application, not sure if that is the way to go.
I want something that will last at least a couple of months.

At the moment I've been using poor boys products (I think they're American so you can probably get that brand) - they seem OK value for money - not as silly as some of the exotic surfboard solutions. I'm not sure if you'll get two months in grotty weather though...

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

For anyone looking for a wide selection of Car Care products; including waxes and polishes for both fiberglass and metals - check out this link!

Car Care - Pelican Parts