SB,

I use a 2-bucket method. I use a MF mitt and wash in one direction. I知 not a full-fledged detail fanatic but I do enough for me and I知 willing to try new things. Scared about buffing and all of that.

There is a detail supply store here in town and I get their soap and detail spray and is great so far. I致e not been real satisfied with their interior products or their tar and bug remover.

I知 using collinite 945 (I think) for wax and love it. It lasts a LOOONNNNGGG time. I知 looking for interior products if you or anyone else has suggestions on it or the other stuff I致e mentioned.

Thanks for the tip on Collonite I'd like to try their marine products.

For interior I've been happy with Griots leather care products

Buffing isn't very risky with a dual action polisher, just start with the least aggressive pads for the task and let the machine do the work. Stay away from the edges where paint is thinner.

Some of the results of the serious pros are beyond amazing.

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I used to use the two-bucket method, as it's logical. However, to ensure the grit is out vs being shuffled around and suspended in the buckets, I now hose out the wash pad after each and every panel--or half-panel for the hood and roof. No swirls or fine scratches. It does take me longer, but the paint condition speaks for itself. This will greatly minimize the need for buffing (I've only done so for spot-correcting). I also use a foam gun plus the wash mitt is dunked in soapy water, so it's lube on lube for even less chance of abrasion.

Remember, you are removing material (clear coat) when buffing so less is more. Some companies like Adam's Polishes and Griot's have color-coded pads/polishes to make it simple. For small spot-correcting, Buff Daddy has even smaller more specific pads.

Also, while Wurth and 1Z rubber care products are paint-safe, they would leave a greasy residue on painted surfaces--they are meant for black plastic and rubber.