Hi,

I've got an 84 diesel whom I love, her name is Cupcake. Anyway, the
paint is oxidized, the blue color. I tried to polish it before, and now
it has some white streaks. Really, I don't have the strength required to
really rub it off. I was reading a technique of applying Meguiar's #7,
several times, letting it dry, and really rubbing it off. I fear the same
thing would happen. Is there something I could rent that would do
this, or any way of doing this?...I'm not a total weakling, but was
surprised of how hard it is to really do a good job polishing an old
car.
Thanks

Go easy on yourself and get a 7" electric polisher and a black cutting pad to work with that #7. Harbor Freight had them (with a coupon) last week for $29. Go in the cheap way and you probably will fall in love with machine finishing. Then you can upgrade to a DA type. Its not a hard skill to pick up and lots of videos on the how to. Just go slow -small - and easy when you first start.

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97 S500
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Thanks
Great advice, now I can search around to see if I can rent...
and/or check out the place you recommended. I assume the black
cloth is just part of the polishing...
Linda

Is the polisher something I might borrow from a neighbor?...or is it the sort of thing
that every time you use it you wear out the polisher or something.
Don't want to ask to borrow, if I'd be wearing down their equipment.
Thanks

just be careful,don't let it sit in one place,keep it moving when spinning.Edges it will burn the paint right off,be careful.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Borrow would be nice. But entry cost are very low. Harbor Freight as mentioned has a decent buffer. They give you a extra brush pack as that is about all that goes wrong with them. Have two and one has been around for 5 years.
Their or different types of pads to put on these machines. A black cutting pad is what you want for the job you are doing.
I don't hand wax anymore. A machine wax does such a good job and cuts the time down considerably.

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

Agreed.
I also keep a Windex sprayer bottle full of water to add a bit to the mix when polishing.

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Strelnik
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1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

If you are not strong enough to rub a car out by hand, I'd be real concerned about you using the mentioned 7" buffer / sander. These tend to be heavy and difficult to control making injury not so far away. This type of buffer needs to be held at an angle otherwise the pad will grab from the other direction and throw the buffer. ( Think of a single disc floor buffer. ) Even worse, when they catch an edge, the paint will burn through in short order.

A dual action orbital buffer is more easily controlled. While some may look like a standard buffer, they have an eccentric that allows the pad to oscillate. For these, the pad can be held more or less flat and if it catches an edge, the pad will stop but the motor will continue to run saving you from injury.

Have a look at this one Home Depot sells for ~ $30 BLACK+DECKER 6 in. Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher-WP900 it has a handle on both sides and will be much easier to control. When buying a buffer, get one that uses pads the either velcro on or have a mounting hole in the center as the tie on ones tend to come off.

Get a spare pad or two as you don't want to use rubbing compound and wax on the same pad. The pad is cleanable by scraping while in use and washable when you are done.

Attached Thumbnails

 

That 6 inch B & D RO doesn't have enough umph to compound out oxidation.

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

It's most commonly recommended to start with a DA because it's less prone to damaging the paint and easier to control, and then moving on to a rotary which can get the job done faster.

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It'll will work, just might be slow.

And, when learning to buff out a car, start on the trunk / rear of car. This way if you burn through the paint you won't see it while driving

IMO, TX is correct that the lil B&D DA would be a waste of time and money given the hardness of Mercedes paint. I spent a fair amount of time with a Porter & Cable on my car using Meg's M105 before having to call it and still didn't get all the imperfections out. I can't imagine that little machine would do much at all in a day's work.

A better use of funds would be the Harbor Freight DA another $30, which is at least comparable to a PC according to reviews on detailing forums.

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Where does M105 sit in the grit scale? If one is trying to use super fine on heavily oxidized paint, it will take a long time. And, rough grit won't make for a finished product.

It's pretty gritty and also finishes out really nice often not requiring another polishing step.

That B&D also doesn't have variable speed. I think it could be used to help remove wax quicker, but that's about all it would be good for. Lead image shows them using it one a wooden table, which I think is a more suitable use for it.

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