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  #1  
Old 04-12-2003, 02:06 PM
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Clear drying wax??

Hi all,
I normally use Meguiar's Gold Class wax, but my 84 has some pretty bad checking in the paint (rear panels) where it was repainted. So when the gold class dries it leaves all the low spots white which makes it look pretty bad, is there any easy fix like a clear drying wax out there? I thought I seen one years ago, but checking all the local stores I can't seem to find one.

Thanks.

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2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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  #2  
Old 04-12-2003, 03:39 PM
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Have you ever tried the colored wax ?
You can get it in black, and about 10 - 15 other colors.
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Old 04-12-2003, 04:26 PM
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Can you post a picture or provide more details. I'm confused how the wax is staying on the paint. A quick detailer will remove any excess wax but it seems you have something else ocurring.

Zaino dries clear but it will still be obvious that the wax is there.
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Old 04-12-2003, 07:02 PM
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I can relate to what the guy is talking about.

My black infinti has some spots on the hood where the paint has chipped off.

I used Meguiar's Gold Class Wax last year, which leaves a brilliant shine, but the wax residue gets caught in the nooks and crannies of the chips, and you can't get it out. The wax dries white, so it shows up.

I would try a wax that dries clear, like Zaino, or Meguiar's #26, Hi-Tech Yellow Wax. It dries clear, so it shouldn't leave a white residue. It also means that it won't stain white your trim, rubber molding, etc.

http://www.meguiars.com/product_showroom/showproducts_template.cfm?SrcLine=PP&SrcCat=4
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2003, 02:53 AM
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Yea I tried colored wax before, works nice on rock chips, but was hoping not to have to use it here. Again it seems like even that dull blue would higlight these grooves.

I don't have any pictures of the checking on my computer right now, but just imagine little triangles with at least 1/16" of depth holding the wax. Apparently the prep work done for the new paint job was not sufficient. Maybe I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

Quote:
I would try a wax that dries clear, like Zaino, or Meguiar's #26, Hi-Tech Yellow Wax. It dries clear, so it shouldn't leave a white residue. It also means that it won't stain white your trim, rubber molding, etc.
Maybe I'll give that a shot. I actually put some Gold Class on it not very long ago, going to try cleaning it off with a foam pad on a rotary buffer.

Thanks.
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2003, 12:43 PM
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FWIW, I have done a lot of power buffing on cars with a DeWalt rotary polisher, and even the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher.

The machines are very useful and efficient at polishing paint, as well as applying wax, but very inefficient at removing product. The foam will not really pick up dried product. It will just spread it around. You could try the cotton or micro-fiber bonnets to remove product, but I find the bonnets get clogged with dried wax real quickly, so you find yourself changing bonnets a lot.

Instead, apply product with the foam pads, and remove with micro-fiber or 100% cotton towels. It's much quicker and easier.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2003, 12:00 AM
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Yea I actually ended up not using the rotary polisher at all for the wax. I just ended up using 5 100% cotton terry towels, and the foam applicator pad to put it on with. Also ended up using some forever black, looks real nice now. The wax in the paint checking doesn't seem as bad this time for some reason, if I remember I'll post up a picture here later this week.

Thanks.

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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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