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#1
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What next? I have paint in hand.
Backed into a stone and scratched the bumper.
Purchased paint form the dealer and they gave me two bottles - Gray and clear coat. Now - please suggest how I get the paint onthe bumper and not make things worse. I bought the bottles with the brushes. Thanks
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Thanks for the help Bill Fisher '86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle 02 E430 in the stable '14 LS460 (Lexus) - - - - - '95 E420 (198K) found a new home '99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper) '95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes '90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover '92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard '93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup |
#2
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Bill,
Here's my take on touch-up paint. It's difficult (very difficult) to get a real smooth match. Part of the problem is if your paint is metallic, the touch-up paint will look 'different' because it's tough to suspend metallic in the touch-up paint. So, in an effort to make the job as smooth as possible, here's what I do. Whenever I touch up a client's car, I use a very high quality paint brush (sold at an art supply store). The brushes that are inside the touch-up paint are as effective as doing eye surgery with a chainsaw. They tend to blob the paint on, and that isn't a good thing. With a small brush, you can get several thin layers into the scratch, which will help with the finished appearance. After I layer the paint sufficiently, I do one of two things. Either buff the are down with a mildly aggressive polish, or use a product like the one at Langka . Either way, the trick is to get the touch-up paint as smooth as possible before applying the clear. I use the same small brush to apply the clear (after cleaning it). It's a real trial and error thing, until you've done it a lot. hth, DavidM |
#3
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I've had good luck with an inexpensive air brush, used to apply the base and clear after filling and smoothing any indentations or scratches. I made up a reducer to connect to my shop air hose.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
#4
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I also use Ntwrkguys technique although I use carboard matchsticks cut at 45 Degrees instead of the artist brush. I can achieve the same results with the matchstick as with the brush but I prefer the matchstick because I find the MB paint dries quickly and gets very sticky. Sticky paint creates little strands (like spiderwebs) when you lift the brush away from the chip and then you need to clean that mess up to. So I'm constantly throwing out the old matchstick and using a new one. Langka also works very well as suggested but don't wait too long to use it, MB touch paint dries to the touch within 2 hours and after 4 hours Langka will have a tough time smoothing the blob.
Another thing to note: Don't be in a hurry to fill in the scratches and chips. Add a very light coat (nearly see through) and after 12 hours go back and add another coat. Keep doing this until the chip/scratch has filled completely. An average chip/scratch will take between 4 and 7 coats to fill to a small blob if it's down to bare metal. Use your judgement on this but remember less is better. Good luck
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Afshin Current: 02 C32 AMG Previous: 92 500E 84 190E 2.3 5 Spd |
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