severe oxidation...nothing helps! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bachlauter · #1 03-08-2004, 09:51 PM

Hi!

I got this old '69 250 that's finish is horribly ruined, it seems! It's been sitting for a couple of years and has the worst oxidation I've ever seen! This car has original paint.

I tried first to wash it, then I tried to clay bar a small patch, then I used some car polish. Polish usually works, but it barely helped. I then repolished the same spot three times to see if it got any better and it didn't. After all of that work, I could barely tell the spot that I polished!

What kind of options are there for this kind of damage? Should I try polishing compound? Rubbing compound? Should I do it by hand? Use an orbital buffer? Also, all of the oxidized parts are badly scratched! Do it sound like it's too far gone??

~Christy

suginami · #2 03-08-2004, 11:30 PM

Your car is in need of the services of a professional detailer, who knows the ins and outs of a rotary buffer. That is the only machine that can refresh your finish.

Nothing that you can apply by hand will be able to rehalibilitate your paint. You can try, but your arm might fall off.

placo1 · #3 03-09-2004, 12:21 AM

What kind of polish are you using? Can you provide pictures of the paint in its current condition?

Some hand polishes might revive the paint but as Paul mentioned we're not responsible for any extremities that don't make it.

Seriously, it really does depend on the polish being used and the condition of the paint. On the other hand you may find that nothing will cure it short of a complete respray.

suginami · #4 03-09-2004, 01:58 PM

I also think we're confusing words / products.

A polish is a beautifying product. It does not have any real cleaning / compounding ability. It has oils in it that nourish the paint, but won't remove oxidation. It is also not to be confused with a wax, which is a product which provides a protective barrier.

You need to use a dedicated system of paint cleaners / compounds, applied with a rotary buffer.

You'd start out with a fairly aggressive compound, then a medium or fine cut compound, then a polish, then wax.

bachlauter · #5 03-09-2004, 10:18 PM

Great info!

yeah...I only used that cheap "finish 2000" product, which does do a fine job on new cars...but not on this old MB!

So...you're saying that I need to try some sort of polishing compound....I have an orbital buffer and I really feel that anything I do can't possibly make it look WORSE!

Great plan with starting out with something really rough, then less rough etc etc. Should I start out with something truely harsh like rubbing compound?? I figure worst case scenario, I'll buff down to primer, then it'll get repainted anyhow...

I am a little sketchy with that buffer, though....it gets so out-o-contol!! LOL!!

~Christy

Ntwrkguy1 · #6 03-09-2004, 10:21 PM

Christy,

If you can post some detailed pics, we'll know for sure. From the sounds of it, I'd say you could use the services of a pro. A rotary buffer would remove the oxidation. You'll need an abrasive cleaner to remove the oxidation, then a polish to build the shine back up. After that, don't forget to apply some wax to protect the polish.

-David

placo1 · #7 03-09-2004, 10:23 PM

If you have a rotary I'd give Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish a try. You can order it online from their website. I would also recommend buying one of their maroon polishing pads for your orbital. Use speed setting 5 or higher.

For step two try Meguiars Swirl Free Polish with their yellow polishing pad. Use speed setting 5.

For the final step you can use any good wax, I'd suggest something other than Finish 2000.

samiam4 · #8 03-16-2004, 10:29 PM

Not knocking meguires products...

If your going to do this by hand- use 3M hand polish. You can get this at any professional paint supply store.
Have you tried aggressively washing it with soap and a little fantastik?
Least aggresive which works is the best.

Michael

suginami · #9 03-17-2004, 12:24 AM

I have 3M's polish. It's called Imperial Hand Glaze, and I like it a lot.

I compared it to Meguiar's polish in the red bottle on my neighbor's burgundy metallic Toyota Tundra, and the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze produced a glossier and deeper finish. It noticeably darkened the paint, too.

However, it will not remove oxidation. It has no abrasives / cleaners.

It is purely a beautifying product.

You would use it prior to applying a wax or a sealant.

samiam4 · #10 03-17-2004, 01:11 PM

Yep

3M p/n 059990 for 32oz bottle.

Michael

samiam4 · #11 03-17-2004, 01:13 PM

I've relied on the advice of Larry Reynolds of a few years..

Call him!

carcareonline.com

Kestas · #12 03-18-2004, 01:48 PM

As long as the damage isn't too deep you should be able to take care of this yourself. The question is how far back (what level of aggressiveness) do you have to go to remove the damage. Start with Dupont's Polishing Compound. If that doesn't do it, then use Dupont's Rubbing Compound.... then 2000 or 1000 grit paper. If none of those work, then you have to repaint.

samiam4 · #13 03-18-2004, 06:45 PM

Personally most cars ppl use something too coarse,

Always start with the finest available stuff which would be the "imperial micro glaze". Professionals maybe able to use more agressive stuff with good sucess- but most car's I've viewed with said buffing, don't look as good as something done with a finer polish and a little more time.

Case in point: I color-sanded my convertible, it's a polyurethane 2-stage painting system. I sanded it down with 1200# or maybe it was 1500 grit and then buffed it with "3M Finessit II" and the results were amazing. I used the double-side yellow 3M polishing pad with it on an air powered buffer. I think ppl go coarse and get a shine, then don't get an even buffing with finer stuff. Simply harder to tell when it's done-because it's already shiny.

Michael

suginami · #14 03-18-2004, 07:30 PM

I've color sanded a lot of paint jobs. My dad was a car painter for a short period of time when I was a kid. I have also color sanded my cars when I had them painted.

I would never use anything coarser than 1500, and I would only use it on a freshly painted car that had at least 3 layers of clear coat.

You just don't have enough clear coat to be using 1200 or 1000 grit. It's a huge mistake.

On old paint, like ours, I would only use 2500 grit personally, but you might try 2000 grit.

You'd then step down to a compound that can remove grade 2500 or grade 2000 sanding marks, like 3M Finess-it II. I've used the 3M system on my wife's black G20, and I like the 3M line.

I've since graduated to the Meguiar's line of products as it is a more complete line with a product for every possible situation.

rdanz · #15 03-19-2004, 02:37 PM

I agree with everything Suginami said only after I wet sanded with soapy water I would wash car and then use 3M's Micro finishing Compound and then finish up with either Imperial Hand Glaze or a good wax Like NXT