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  #1  
Old 04-26-2004, 04:28 PM
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Quick Advice

Hi, I've looked at most of the topics about car waxes. I also finshed reading "Aultimate Car Detailing" however I am still little confused when it comes to choosing the right combination of cleaners/ waxes etc for my car.

Here is the situation:
Car is a 95' model with charocal paint. It has been waxed by the previous owner as I can see wax on the rubber seals and emblems. The paint has no oxidation. There are few scratches, not very deep that need to be addressed.
My question is "What should I do to the paint"

Use a one step wax?
Use a polish and then wax?


Remove the old wax and apply a new coat. (What do you use to remove old wax and what kind of wax is best to use after)

Maybe someone can suggest a plan of action that I should take, including the type of product that I should use

Here is the only pic I have! Need to get a camera!
(the paint is in much better state than this, it is the way the pic was taken)



Thanks

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  #2  
Old 04-26-2004, 05:00 PM
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I just read Lee's Detailing FAQ

i think this may be a good start:
1. swirl remover
2. polish
3. wax


When I use swirl remover and the polish I am actually removing some of the clearcoat, Correct? How much do I acutally remove?


I will be doing all of the steps by hand, is it a resonable job or will my arms fall off?
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2004, 05:50 PM
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Here is what I would do to get the car looking really good.

First scratches/swirls usually come from the products used to wash, dry or wipe the car and I would purchase at leat 5 - 7 high quality microfiber towels to remove the polish and waxes and wipe the car down between waxes. Get a 100% cotton towel or waffle weave towel to dry the car.

1. Wash the car thoroughly using a wool wash mitt (Viking is a good one) and a quality car wash soap like Meguiars Gold Class or Mothers Shampoo

2. Leave the car wet and use a claybar on the car. Claymagic is a good brand and can be purchased from nearly any auto store. Go from top to bottom, bottom surfaces like rocker panels are usually dirtier due to road debris and you don't want to drag this over the rest of your car.

3. Wash the car again with the wool mitt and shampoo of choice

4. Polish the paint using Meguiars, Mothers, 3M or any other high quality hand polish. I personally like Einzett 1Z Paint Polish or Meguiars Swirl Free Polish for hand products. Einzett is available online only.

5. Apply your wax of choice as a finish step.

Good luck and when you get your camera post some pics.
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  #4  
Old 04-26-2004, 07:56 PM
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Hey thanks a lot placo1.


All of you guys are so helpful Unlike other car forums

Last edited by E300D; 04-26-2004 at 10:29 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2004, 07:59 PM
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BTW, your 500E, OMG !!!!! what a car!!

Now, why would you want to sell it? I guess you have your reasons

In my area, Toronto, I have never seen a 500E for sale, and I look at many classifieds. I could only spot few 400's for sale but from some shady stealerships.
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2004, 09:26 PM
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E300D Somewhere, I think up here there is a link to a video on claying.

Basically first Knead the clay (use a 1/3 or so at a time), like bread, then as you use it. Keep kneading it periodically to expose clean spots. Keep it well lubed with the supplied product, or use the Zaino / Meguiars / Mothers wash liquid, mixed with water just less water then for washing.
No more clean, throw it and start new. One bar should do a car the first time. I would do everything except the lower 1/4 (the rockers etc as placo1 mentioned) or so, then go back and do that.
Note the used clay can be saved and used on the Glass, I sometimes use the old stuff on the bottoms of the rockers panels too.

For the first wash, depending on what it was waxed with prior. I would use Dawn dish washing detergent the FIRST time, it will remove most old waxes. Polymer (Zaino, some Meguiars ...) waxes are different, wipe down with a little rubbing alcohol to remove them. The clay will remove them, but if you are going to do the first "detailing/claying" get the old wax out of the way. Start fresh.

Don't use Dawn again, it's not good for the car, but it's the best way to get regular waxes off.

Then use the quality "Car Washes" from then on.

I prefer Zaino, I wouldn't knock the Meguiars or Mothers products at all.
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Old 04-27-2004, 12:29 AM
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Looks like kknudson covered all the details on the clay so you should be good to go.

One additional use for the old clay after you've finished the body of the car is the wheels. Clay will remove embedded brake dust and tar very easily and leave a smooth finish ready for wax.......yeah I wax my wheels. After you've used the clay on the wheels you can pretty much throw the piece out since it will be black.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2004, 12:34 AM
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By the way thanks for the compliments on the car. I'm still tossed on selling my car, I took it for a spin yesterday and as usual it didn't fail to amaze me.
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2004, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by placo1
Looks like kknudson covered all the details on the clay so you should be good to go.

One additional use for the old clay after you've finished the body of the car is the wheels. Clay will remove embedded brake dust and tar very easily and leave a smooth finish ready for wax.......yeah I wax my wheels. After you've used the clay on the wheels you can pretty much throw the piece out since it will be black.

I heard someone say " I clayed my wheels" but back then I didn't have a clear idea of what clay is. I have some dots on the rims, it looks like someone drove freshly paved road. I will use clay to fight these spots as the rims are otherwise spotless and have no curb rash!


Once again placo1 " I would not sell that car if I were you"
I read some of the posts you made that you want a lower milage car, however think what you will have to go thorugh also I doubt you can find a better 500E than you already have.
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2004, 11:56 PM
1990 500SL
 
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Well I went to a "detailing class" the other day. He recommended a paint cleaner AFTER claying. Basically the clay removes flaws ON the paint, the cleaner removes flaws in the paint (clear coat actually). Not major stuff, just minor.

As an example he explained that a the PH difference created by a water spot effectively etches the clear cloat. Thie cleaner gets rid of that.

Just got done doing that, it's a B*** of a job, but holey cow, I haven't even waxed it and it looks fantastic.

Although I hope I never need to do this again, I hope that generally waxing etc will keep it good enough.

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