SHEWW! I was just reading on that site and saw the picture of the old filter ripped apart... Now im really interested in this thread.

Are 616's/617's sand cast? I can imagine how that sand would be coming out of the block now that our engines are 25-30 years old. Scary stuff.

Another thing that blows my mind is how the o-ring on a spin-on filter will withstand the pressure and heat in a cooling system.

I saw a coolant thermostat designed to fit in the thermostat housing on our engines, now that I need to show you guys I can't find it .

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Coolant is usually only 15 pounds at most, much less than oil presure . . . coolant is only up to about 200 degrees, oil is much more . . . don't see the concern . . . also they make spin on filters for coolant, don't just put on a oil filter to filter the coolant . . .

Huh, I never knew the facts behind it. To be honest I really thought there was a lot more pressure in the coolant system after the upper hose blew up all over me and gave me some pretty 2nd degree burns .

Now I want to install a tranny fluid filter in line with my new ATF cooler where the A/C evaporator was. Other than the flow restriction, what drawbacks do an ATF or coolant filter have?

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I do not recommend this install unless you are seriously perturbed by some anomaly; as Babymog, its just not worth it. Unless you have the money to buy a complete kit from some vendor, all the running around finding the right fittings gets tiresome. I weighed this with the numerous flushes I had previously done and found it to be worthwhile.

This is a temporary install for me, and thus explained is the crudeness of the design.

I don't feel like typing all the particulars, sizes etc... for something unimportant. If there's enough demand i may later.

The SOURCE is the line from the head to the firewall.
The RETURN is the line from reservoir to bottom of radiator.

The Wix filter I used has additives and was the most expensive part of this...'project'. It was the only one available on short notice, I would have used one w/o them for the first month, or indefinitely.

Thew housing is a fuel filter housing from W123 turbodiesel

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approx. 200 miles and all the visible sediment in my reservoir has disappeared completely. The color of the coolant is less 'rusty', but I also added more coolant to the mix.

It appears to be running just a tad cooler on the highway.

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I like that it uses the fuel filter base. Did you have to modify it or did the filter bolt onto the stock banjo bolt? Is there a flow limit to the filter?

With a pair of ball valves, this would make a good inline filter for my turbo's cooling supply (if it can flow enough).

I couldn't justify the valves... its called a vise grip.. to me this is temporary.

The filter's threads match NPT 3/8. So the T you see on the top of the filter housing just has a 3/8 nipple going down into the filter through the housing. The housing was bored out to accommodate.

The only mention of flow rates I found was a reference to the engine,s coolant capacity intended for each filter.

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I am going to cut open this filter today...

Will a can opener work on these.. any tips easy access to internals?

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I think I'd seen it done with a large pipe cutter that rolled around creasing the sheet metal, but it's been a while.

If you just disregard any small bits of metal in the outside of the can, you could just cut it on a bandsaw or the like.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

I retrieve my earlier statement, this was totally worth the effort.

The material you see feels like sand but sharper, there are some shiny flakes, and thats only what didn't stick to the filter. The filter was brown with no signs of sludge.

Can you imagine this circulating in your system wearing down your pump?

I was going to remove the system, but I threw another filter on there.

I can't comment on the cause of this foreign material, be it from leaving the engine open for 6 months, age.. etc.

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If someone you knows has a Belt Sander you can sand through the crimped over lip on the filter.
You could also file the lip but that would take a long time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

the can opener worked to break the crimp, then it was a matter of prying the lid off.

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