Before posting this, I did spend some time using the "search" function. I found some information, but not as much as I'd like, and some of it conflicting, so I'll ask my questions here. I've tried to make the thread subject very clear so that any great information posted in the responses will be easy for others to find in the future using the "search" function.


I'm new to the 123, and I'd like to know the appropriate procedure(s) for getting the vehicle up on jackstands. Assume that a garden-variety floor jack is available for lifting, and that garden-variety jack stands will be used for supporting the vehicle.

I'd like to know procedures for both getting (1) the front end only and (2) both front and back ends of the car up on stands.

I'd like to know, specifically, where to place the jack for lifting and where to place the stands for support.

Any relevant "tips and tricks" are welcome, too.


Apologies if this seems just too persnickety to anyone here, but it's just the sort of information that is often simply assumed to be known.


-- eskimo

THis is not an easy question to answer.
For lifting with other than the ' stick in' crank lift... they make a deal which sticks into that hole and then comes down below to give you a place to put the jack or the jack stands...
I had meant to ask if anyone has a set of these special lift pods...

One thing I do know... if you use anything other than the lift holes... you really need to have a piece of wood on top of your jack... those prongs will bend anything they hit on the way up....

I prefer to lift the rear of the vehicle with a single hydraulic jack under the rear end.

The front can be lifted with a single jack under the frame crossmember, just in front of the oil pan, if I remember correctly.

To support it on jack stands requires you to place the stands at the jack points on the body, behind the front wheels, or in front of the rear wheels. Take care, as Leathermang has suggested, because the jack stands will destroy the finish on the body.

models 107,114,115,116, and 123....

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123 jacking-up shoe ( as they call it ).....12358911630 part #

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123

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126

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Well , these pictures ought to slow down anyone on dial up like me... sorry...

The forum software won't let me load the last picture... of the model 201 jack.. but it looks much like the 126....

..what Brian said as far as lifting seems to work well.

I have supported the rear with jack stands under the rear subframe mounts ( the big bolt holding that "snowshoe" shaped metal piece underneath near the rear jack point). There's a fairly obvious place just behind the firewall that strongly resembles a "frame".

ah , the perils of a unibody car. Just don't try jacking or supporting on the rear subframe- its pretty thin

Rick

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I believe that you are referring to the trailing arms, which are the pivoting members that have the springs above them. I completely agree. I attempted to support the SD on the trailing arms once (which are not parallel to the ground BTW), because it keeps the rear springs compressed so that you can easily r&r the wheels. I'm too embarrassed to tell you the result.

"ah , the perils of a unibody car. Just don't try jacking or supporting on the rear subframe- its pretty thin"

Just a thought...
What is the third member attached to ?
I am not comfortable suggesting that putting half the weight of the car on the third member mounts...
And they don't mention jacking the car up there in the Factory Shop manual...

I wouldn't lift a independent rear suspension car by the differential. The mounts are not designed for that type of load and you will get "old Mercedes rear-end clunk disease." ON these cars, the differential is simply hung in place, and is very different from a live axle set-up.

The safest was to proceed is to put the car up on all fours (ramps) by using 2 floor jacks in a two-step process. I wouldn't take chances with using jack stands on these cars, especially if it is old and may have latent corrosion weakness.

For jacking, use the areas directly above the jack holes, again as advised using a piece of wood to avoid marring. You can probably also use the front crossmember in a pinch to lift, but would not be very stable.

Good luck.

__________________
2008 GL320CDI 6K
1970 280SL 112K
1982 240D 210K (Sold)
1973 220D 220K (Sold)
1967 200D 160K (Sold)
1992 400E 139K (Sold)
1988 300E 148K (Sold)
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MBCA Member

One question/one observation:

1) Is the concern with lifting by the differential the large angles that result in the half shafts? The wheels drop very low and the diff is very high, resulting in quite the angle. What is the result of this?

2) If you attempt to lift the rear of the vehicle, at the jack points, using 2 floor jacks, I forsee a problem when it gets up off the ground by 12 inches or so. At this point, the vehicle is not anywhere near parallel to the ground and there is now quite a bit of side load on the jack pad with the piece of wood on top of it.
The only solution would appear to be four floor jacks and use a 1 step process.

Of course, you would have to run around the vehicle about 20 times, like a moron, and lift each jack 1 inch at a time.

Comments?

I believe this problem has been solved by LarryBible. Hopefully, he will post pics of his 2 post lift. As soon as I have a picture of an MB on his lift, I'm gonna print it, show it to my wife, and duck.

Brian, Most of these cars have some way to limit the lower travel of the wheels.... often the shock absorbers function in that way...

The concern is that the mounts and the metal the third member is attached to is not strong enough to support half the weight of the car....

No one said getting these cars off the ground to work on them was going to be EASY !

I am going to dig a pit.