Well, Whunter, you were so right! That's exactly where my bracket is broken. The nuts on the brackets were all tight but the center rubber mount was loose and the U-shaped intake from the af housing down to the turbo wasn't snug at the bottom. I tightened everything up and will get a replacement bracket soon. I found a local junkyard that specializes in MB and BMWs that I want to try out. Now, for that loose A/C compressor belt...

Thanks, guys.

Mark

ShopForum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > DIY Links by Parts Category
Air Intake:
Air Intake:

This is mighty useful. Wish everything could be a sticky, but I guess it wouldn't be practical. This is exactly my issue... right where my bracket is broken. Hope it isn't the motor mount. Essentially this is also why the UTube won't stay connected.

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1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
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I've also noticed that a good valve adjustment sure helps to prevent repeats of this problem.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Air cleaner assembly "bracket" is likely sheared.

I found this thread after doing a search for the same problem and since solving the problem, I thought I'd post a few pics showing what I did.

I thought the air filter housing was jumping around a bit too much but I knew there was a problem once I noticed the frame of the housing was chewing into the corner of my battery, at quite a fast pace!

Well it had finally come totally free of the three bolts that hold it down. I didn't want to wait for the part to come in the mail so I went to the hardware and bought similar pieces. The rubber cork that I bought was taller than necessary so I sliced it to size with a razor blade. (pic 1)

Then I drilled holes through the rubber to make a tight fit for the new bolts I'd be using. (pic 2)

I removed the air filter housing and discovered the mounting bracket was in good shape. The new bolts and washers were threaded UP from the bottom of the mounting bracket. (pic 3)

Then the rubber cork was pushed down over the bolts. (pic 4)

The air filter housing was re-installed with the three bolts showing through bottom of the housing. New lock nuts were tightened over the bolts and Presto! no more vibrating air filter housing. (pic 5)

This was a simple yet very rewarding repair for myself. Definitely earned some points with my wife

Attached Thumbnails

         

Looks more effective then the originals.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When did you last pop test your injectors? Unbalanced injectors can cause excessive vibration. After injector balance, I would check the rack damper

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Thanks Diesel911! I'll keep checking to make sure the bolts stay snug but is sure seems like a good fix.

I'm in the later stages of fixing this. Broken bracket - they're cheap, like $15-ish if you look around on ebay. I wanted to weld/strengthen mine and get things back together more quickly (fat chance - I'm now in my second week of waiting for the damned heat-shields to come in the mail...) So, since I have to start driving the car Monday, I put it together today but will have to disassemble to install the heat-shields.

WrightSound's post above with the 5-6 photos shows a mod that looks reasonable in a pinch (it doesn't give the isolation of the "nothing-but-rubber" mount that's normally there, since it's through-bolted) but anyway, I wondered if he discovered after the photos were shot that the selected bracket holes have to be either all three 'forward' holes, or all three 'rearward' holes, and not a mix, in order to align with air-cleaner? At least, that's where /my/ air-cleaner wants the isolators to be.

I chose the 'front' three holes, to give me the most clearance from the firewall end of things, but it doesn't seem to be enough. The toggle-clip (one of four that holds the air-cleaner cover on) nearest the battery badly interferes with the insulation on the body - I had to about bend it to get it to "toggle" and latch. And the toggle-clip clockwise from that one does something similar to the bracket on the valve-cover - had to tweak that one, too.

So this has me wondering if my engine-mount/s is/are toast - though that would only help with one of the two fouling toggle-clips. I stared at the right side mount, and really couldn't tell much, I guess. What's the acid test there? Gently jack the engine up to see whether cracked rubber reveals itself?

I guess a valve-adjustment is in my near-future, too - there's a nasty 'lope,' especially right after startup.

These links will have all the engine mount information you want.

Engine Mount and Heat Shield LINKS page


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ASE Master Mechanic
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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Sure did
Yeah, I had to move the one over to the "farther" hole but I didn't feel like taking more pics. Good eye Pants.