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#1
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Water pump starting to leak.
Ok my car has been running good, no new problems and the things I fixed seem to be staying that way. But, yesterday I noticed that around the seal between the water pump and block is wet, it smells like ani-freeze. So it is not dripping yet just weeping a little, now hear is my question do I have to fix this right away? I know that this is a 603, not to mention when it does start to leak it will drip on the alternator, theirs a good design. It's not that I don't want to fix it, it is just that I'm tired of spending money on this car I kind of wanted to go a month before another big project. Although I will be commuting to school in 3 weeks so maybe I better just fix it. What could an OE pump cost? $125 give or take, not an expensive fix really.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#2
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For my brother's 601, the pump is $85, so I'd assume it is probably about the same for yours. It's not a bad job at all. I always heard that the 60x engines never need waterpumps? I just did my brother
s because it had 370k mile son the original, and I was already in there for the main seal. The bolts that hold the w/pump are pretty small so be careful to not break any, becasue then you're really up ***** creek. If it's just leaking at the block there, there is a gasket there. Just replace the gasket. You use a little bit of sealant to hold the gasket to the pump so it is easier to put on. You need to see if it's leaking there or at the weep hole on the bottom of the pump. The weep hole is almost always where the pumps fail. Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#3
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I always heard that the 60x engines never need waterpumps?
look at GSXR's water pump pictures sometime, warning! graphical pictures! not for the faint of heart.
I replaced the wp on my '87. It was $80 and I suggest using a LASO over any other brand, I did it while the head was off as cheap insurance that my #14 head wouldn't be toast if mine was in the shape that the GSXR pump was. DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#4
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Maybe I will just change mine than, I was told only to use OE water pumps for the 603's? Something about better vanes? A LASO pumps $97 I think on Fastlane.
Thanks for the tips Want I was thinking about just doing the gasket, but decides against that because once it is open the car is down and if the water pump is corroded I won't have a car until I can get one.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#5
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Once the water pump starts to leak at normal operating temperatures, it doesn't USUALLY seal itself and it might fail catastrophically at any moment without any warning. Often a prefailure warning is the ejection of coolant from the weep hole (usually less tha a half pint at least initially) as the engine cools down after shutoff. I have not had any OM60x diesel water pump fail and I have between 160-250kmi on mine. Several of mine DO leak a small strream of coolant when first started when winter temps get down near or below zero (F) but they seem to seal themselves once the engine (or outside) temp rises just a bit and once ambient temps become more moderate, there have been NO further leaks (this has been going on for more than 2 years).
Marshall |
#6
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I hope Dave doesn't mind my posting the link to his water pump impeller picture:
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_stuff/pump_impeller1.jpg
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#7
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The reason as I know it for waterpumps that begin to leak out the drip hole is indicative of the pump shaft seal having worn to the point where coolant begins to leak past the seal and out the drip hole.
And usually gets progressively worse in short time, thus the need for adding more and more water. Just do it! |
#8
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Don't forget to change your belts while you're at it.
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg Peach Parts W124.128 User Group. 80 280SL 85 300SD 87 300TD 92 300D 2.5 Turbo 92 300TE 4Matic |
#9
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Thanks Phil is offering 5% off next week so I may just order one and do it Friday. I have done a little research and some people have Laso fail in 30k miles and Graf's seem to also. A lot of people who have used these seem to have problems with them down the road. I will be going OE, the one on their now has 237k miles on it so they must be pretty good.
pwogaman the belt is new, 603's are lucky we only have a serpintine belt.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#10
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Hattie, I'll be very curious to see if a new water pump will reduce the temperature climbout when under boost. This deal of climbing up to 98 degrees every time boost is used for more than 10 seconds, with or without a/c, in ambient temps. that can be as low as 70 degrees, is starting to bother me.
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#11
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Yeah that can't be right mine almost never gets that warm. Try flushing your system and cleaning your radiator. Mine hit 95 once since I went threw the system, but I was going 100mph with the AC on! Before I went threw the cooling system it would warm up like yours.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#12
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It is rather odd because the radiator appears to be a brand new Behr. Could not be more than 1-2 years old. That's why I am very interested when you mentioned "water pump". I was always of the opinion that they work fine until they leak, however Dave's photos clearly show otherwise.
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#13
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Quote:
Dont forget the thermostat! |
#14
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Yeah Dave's photo's were a real eye opener!
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#15
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Quote:
Marshall |
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