I need to remove the rear windshield on my SDL. Their seems to be some rust starting under there and I would like to deal with it before it gets worse. I just got a quote from a body shop for $850 to pull it! They quoted 4.5 hours labor! This doesn't seem right? They also wouldn't pull it and let me fix the rust. So has anyone done this before?

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I have pulled the front and the rear...On the rear you need to take the interior panels out so you can disconnect the electric defroster. they are on each side about middle waya. I can check one I have pulled....After you disconnect the wires you can pull the glass in less than an hour...You have to pull the trim and this takes some time because you don't want to bend it...then I use a sharp pocket knife to cut the rubber..I just keep scribing with the knife...My numbers are 812-897-0022 daytime.....812-897-0667 night...I am southern Indiana and will give you more help if you want to call...I had some rust but I rolled the rubber back and took care of it...Jim Harris

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James A. Harris

I have not done myself, but I took mine to a car glass company to have the MB gasket installed. The job did take the pro installer almost 3 hours to do. The charge was $125.00, as I recall.

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1984 300SD 326,997 miles and counting . . . No wait, my odometer is still dead

I have replaced the rubber on both of my 300SDs, be very careful not to bend the trim as it is enough of a PITA to install whithout it being out of shape.( I speak from experience)

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1971 R600 Mack toterhome (SuperDawg)
99 NU-WA Snowbird 34+2 SE 102 5er
If it's not diesel, it's not in my stable!
53 F100 617.951/auto
95 Dodge 3500 Cummins/5 speed service truck

Thanks for the reply's anyone every deal with rust in their? If I lay on my back in the trunk and look up at the seam I can see rust coming threw! I stuck the metal hard with a big screw driver and it seems to be very solid. This is the only spot on my car that is really rusted, so I want to fix it.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I have the same rust but haven't attacked it yet. I also put a new trunk seal. I am still getting a few drips during heavy rain, but not apparently from the window or trunk seals. The drip comes down above the left wheel, like its coming through the antenna seal. When I get time I will check this one out.

To repair that rust, I will probably use POR-15. Good luck.

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1984 300SD 326,997 miles and counting . . . No wait, my odometer is still dead

Where do you get POR-15? Home Depo maybe?

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I just did the front and back windows on my 115/300d (and the rear on my 450slc a while back) and here is what I learned. As stated be careful taking out the aluminum trim that goes in the rubber seal. Take it out before you take out the window. I used a Wunderbar pry bar but I think any wide, flat, and thin pry bar will work. Just ease the bar under the trim with out trying tp pry it up too much. Otherwise you will get a curve in the trim. The trim is very soft. You can bend it back into shape but if you don't deform it in the first place you won't have to go through this exercise. Now that I think about it I guess you could cut the rubber seal away from the inside edge of the trim. This might make the trim come out easier.

Next cut the rubber seal away. Cut off the section between the slot where the trim went and the center of the window. Then go inside and run a thin blade between the seal and the window to break the seal away from the glass. If you remove the rear seat it makes the removal and installation easier. Plus you can now clean the muck and money out from under the seat. If you have a rear window defroster you will have to remove the rear seat inorder to disconnect the wires.

Go outside and ease the blade under the glass to free it from the seal and lift the glass out. You can also do this by inserting a thin stainless wire through the seal. Wrap each end around a screwdriver or some such hand hold and pull the wire around. Lift out the window. Better to use two people to lift the glass out.

Store the glass on its edge. Be VERY VERY careful when handling the glass. I tried to clean around the edge of mine and cracked the front window.

If you get an installer to replace your glass ask him (most installers are hims) how he intends to do it. This is a trick question because if the tells you that he will install the glass into the seal, the window/seal combination into the car and THEN install the trim you need to find another installer. The trick is that the glass must go into the seal first, THEN the trim into its place, and THEN this entire unit into the car. You can not install the trim once the glass is in the car. Sak your local MB dealer who they get to install the glass. Chances are that they contract out this part.

I took my glasses out myself but had an installer come to the house and install them. He charged $75 each for the front and rear. It was well worth the money.

Good luck.

If you do it yourself, be very careful to not break the glass, or you will have an even bigger problem with having to purchase a new rear window. For a W126, they shouldn't be too expensive at a wrecking yard...

Part of the reason I want to pull the glass, other than the rust is that my current rear windsheild is delaminating, their is a spreading white patch in the left corner. I have a spare in my parts car I plan on useing. My trim is very dull so I might replace that to if it isn't to expensive. I'm tired of dull trim on my car.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

H-guy, I had to remove my rear window glass because of water leaking into the trunk. I found 8" of the pinch weld had rotted away. If you find the same thing, i'll tell you how I fixed mine, but I hope you don't find the same. steve 83sd