The search isn't working so I'll have to ask. Engine won't shut off with key and shut off valve is not holding a vacuum on my 77 300d. Can it be replaced without removing the oil filter housing? I assume it can but will require some finageling. I know I need to be sure the rod is connected and to be prepared to stop the engine if it isn't. Any other hints on how to make the job easier.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Cant speak for your mechanical capabilities - but for me tampering with the shut off valve on the IP is something I'd trust to my independent mechanic..... And I've been working on gasoline MB's for more than 20 yrs, tearing into cylinder heads, swapping engines and stuff - yet have got less than 2 yrs experience messing with the diesel.

Larry Bible's famous "destroyed my daughter's engine" thread tells the story of worst case scenario when messing with the cut-off valve.

It looks like a pretty simple task to me, apart from the close quarters. The crucial issue is whether the hook on the shut off valve engages it's mate in the pump. An indy could screw that up as easily as I could .
I assume that if you pull a vacuum on the new valve, and it activates the manual shut off lever, it's a good indication it is installed correctly. Or, is the manual lever independent of the vacuum shut off? I can't tell at the moment because the vacuum valve is not functioning. Or, is the movement of the manual lever not an indication that it is actually shutting off the fuel supply to the pump if the vacuum valve hook is not engaged?

I guess the simplest question is: Is there a foolproof way of determining if the shut-off valve is installed correctly without starting the engine and trying to shut it off?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

On the 79 240D I was able to replace the shut-off valve with out removing the oil filter housing. I have done this repair and it is very easy but make darn sure you have taken some simple precautions.

Remove the air cleaner assembly! If you have a run away you can slam a phone book over the intake and kill the engine! I would have destroyed my engine had I not taken this precaution. Have a helper!

You could also dump a CO2 fire extinguisher into the intake or pull the fuel line to the injection pump(i do not know how long this would take to kill the engine!).

As for the installing the new shut-off valve, pay close attention to how the old one comes out. Get a small mirror and a powerful flashlight and see how the old one is attached prior to removal. I was very careful about all this and still had problems. I did the search and found various articles about how the shut-off was to be installed. I even recall someone finding the section in the MB manual and reading that. I still had problems.

I even tested the install of the new valve with the Mighty-Vac. All seemed fine. The run away scared the heck out of me.

You may consider this information to be observations specific to my vehicle and not to be taken as correct for your situation. Please feel free to contact me.

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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow
98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD
83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot)

after owning diesels since 1990 im used to having a few extra glow plugs around etc......

one day my 1990 would not turn off with the key.. just a low hum of her Locomotive purr.. pressed stop button.. figured it was the shut off valve..

bought a new on 20 bux,, went to put it in and what a nightmare! trying to get to the back screw... looks like on the 1990-1993 models the intake manifold must be removed to get to one simple screw..

i gave up after modifying anything and everything i could think of..

thank god it turned out to be a piece of hose that had just dry rotted!!

just like the time when my altenator went.. i figured what the heck.. 40 bux for a voltage regulator vs 200 or so for the altenator plus core ..
well it wasnt the voltage regulater.. my shrader tester showed it still wasnt not charging.. and I had NO DASH LIGHTS WHEN I TURND THE KEY...

I found a rebuilt one at this guys shop who is an electrical parts rebuilder,
put the recored altenator in I paid 107.99 for it a Steal I thought !!
everything worked fine.
until 3 weeks later .... again crawled under her ate dirt sracthed my eyes. and put in the other voltage regulator.. WALAHh~ now everything works.

now my air is giving me troubles and at the same time my tach stopped so now i have to listen to hear if the compressor is kicking in instead of watching the tach drop 500prm give or take...

Lets hope I dont have to put that 20 dollar shut off valve in!!
:p

good luck

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1994 S-350 6cyl Turbo Diesel 158k

1998 300d 6 cyl Turbo Diesel 143K

1993 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 236

1990 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 228k

1983 SL-500 EURO W/HEATED SEATS 40K

SOLD 1977 Jaguar XJ6 Coupe Antique Roadster 85K

SOLD 1993 2.6 6 cyl 190 E 150k

SOLD 1992 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 204k

RIP 1992 124 300 TD 265K OIL PUMP QUIT @ 85MPH

i used my mighty vac to help me put it in. youll feel it catch and pull on it a little. it feels like a spring in there. then i applied vacuum to it to hold it in place.

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

The question remains - Is there a foolproof (100 % sure) way to verify that shutoff valve on injection pump will work, prior to starting engine.

[QUOTE=kerry edwards]It looks like a pretty simple task to me, apart from the close quarters. The crucial issue is whether the hook on the shut off valve engages it's mate in the pump. An indy could screw that up as easily as I could .

Not if he knows what he is doing
It's kind of a feel thing. You insert the plunger of the valve at an angle and hook the main rack. Then you try to pull the valve out and feel a tug. That means you are hooked. Push the unit straight in and install the 4 screws. I never bother with it, but you can remove the air cleaner assy and have a board ready to slap on the intake if you are concerned. I don't think there is enough time to crack all the lines to all the injectors. I think the shutting off of air supply would be your best bet.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Run away 240D engine, very scary!

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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow
98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD
83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot)

Correct me if I'm wrong;

If you "hook" the proper part inside the I.P. ("Voodoo Mechanics") and
secure the (4) four bolts,[with or without aid of the Mighty Vac]....
then apply vacuum to the new I.P. Shutoff ;THE RED STOP LEVER MUST
MOVE IT"S FULL RANGE OF MOTION (which tells you that you've done
a proper install.)

no the rack will not move when vacuum is applied

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

On the W123 turbo IPs, the stop lever doesn't move when vac is applied to the servo. This makes is a bit difficult to tell if you have it right, but if the levers are connected, it will work.

Larry ran in to trouble when he changed the IP, not putting a shutoff on it. Appears the IP itself was defective.

Cracking the injector lines or a CO2 extinguisher down the intake (sans air cleaner!) will always work. There is enough fuel in the IP, certainly in the filter assembly, to blow the engine up.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

There may be enough fuel in the IP to blow up the engine, but it won't happen. Without new fuel coming in, the IP won't deliver fuel to the engine. I posted the link on the runaway engine thread to the link where a member cut the fuel line to the IP and the engine stopped in seconds.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

For the 1986-up OM602/603 turbo engines, you don't need to pull the intake manifold, nor do you need to employ contortionists to access the rear/hidden bolt. Simply remove the ALDA and it's a piece of cake. Thankfully, Bosch made the shutoff a LOT easier to R&R on these pumps - it's on top, and you CAN test it easily with a vacuum pump, BEFORE starting the engine. Just watch the stop lever, it should move from near vertical with no vacuum, to horizontal with vacuum applied. No worries there.

Now for the 616/617 engines, it sounds to me like the best method is to have phone books, hose cutters, injector line wrenches, and CO2 extinguishers handy with a couple of helpers ready to plug/cut/unscrew/snuff a runaway diesel!

From one that has had a run away and having to deal with it myself, the removal of the air cleaner and having a phone book handy is an engine saver.

It is a loud smokey scary experience I hope to never be in again!

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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow
98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD
83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot)