tranny removal 84 300DT
 

I am currently removing the tranny off of my 84 300D w/ a turbo. I am using a previous post done by R. Leo on his auto-manual conversion process as a guide.

So far I have removed the following: starter, exhaust pipe, ATF dipstick fill pipe, AT cooler lines to and fro the radiator, and bracket below the location of the 6 15mm bolts between the drive shaft and the tranny output shaft.

And I also disconnected the drive shaft from the tranny output shaft. (loosened the six nuts and bolts that are 15mm)

Questions/
1. According to R. Leo's conversion post he removed the drive shaft. When I look at the area between the tranny output shaft and the drive shaft I see a shaft that is ~.5" in diameter. How do I remove the drive shaft?

2. I jacked the tranny up using a couple of floor jacks and removed the bolts at the bell housing (5 17mm hex head bolts). (they were not all the same length bolts by the way) When I lowered the jacks the tranny sagged but it did not fall to the ground it is still supported. According to other posts I need to use a 2 ft extension wrench at this point? Should not the tranny come off now?

3. R. Leo also states to disconnect the speedo cable from the tranny. I disconnected a cable that fit into the rear of the transmission. Is that the speedo cable?

4. Where is the nuetral safety switch? (Is that the same as the gear shift selector linkage)

I appreciate any answers to any of the questions above.

thanks

almadroog

Frist, get that jack back up under the tranny! It's hanging on the guides on the engine, and can fall on you!

You will have to remove the shift linkage (the 1/2 inch diameter "tube" -- it's really a solid shaft). Safety switch is behind the shift lever on the tranny (left side), I believe a round plug on that model with a locking clip (rotate CCW). Might just be a round connector. You will also need to disconnect the kickdown solenoid wire if you haven't yet.

To remove the driveshaft, drop the exhaust down by unhooking the rubber loops and unbolting the hanger at the tranny, then unbolt the flex disk at the differential. Unscrew the big nut on the driveshaft directly in front of the center carrier about a turn or two (no more), unbolt the carrier (two 13 mm bolts) and push the driveshaft back toward the carrier bearing. It will shorten enough to come free of the output shaft. Pull off the diff and lay aside. Best to mark the flex disk and flanges so you can get it back in the same place.

Have a care not to pull the front part off, it must go back in the same spline and isn't well marked.

You must also remove the six small bolts in the flywheel that hold the toque converter to the flywheel. Remove the cover at the botton of the bell housing to access them. Push torque conveter back towards the tranny to clean.

last, remove the two bolts on the bottom of the transmission support crossmember and then the four that hold the crossmember on. Have your jack holding the tranny up FIRST, please!!!!

Remove crossmember, then pry the tranny back to release it from the guide pins on the block plate and lower.

Double check that everything is free before moving the tranny off the block, it's a bit unweildy at that point, you don't want it hanging on the shift lever or something.

thanks
 

thanks for the procedures and advise. I took the car off the jack stands and placed a jack under the pan and lifted the tranny up
tomorrow I will give it another go

Almadroog,

I just replaced the trans. in my 115/300d. Here is what I found.

I used a set of drive up ramps under the front wheels and a set of jack stands under the back. You need about 18"+ clearance between the ground and the rocker panels in order to get the trans. out.

First off everything psfred said is correct although I disconnected the rear drive shaft, the center carrier bearing and slid the entire thing back. I also dropped the exhaust and replaced the hanger rubbers.

Jack up the trans. and remove the cross member. Let the engine/trans. down as low as it will go. Check that nothing in the engine compartment is in a bind.

You will need a 10 mm Allen socket, preferably 1/2" drive, a swivel joint and about 24"s of extensions to get to the two top trans./bellhousing bolts. While you have the 10mm socket tighten the two starter mount bolds. I found one of mine just finger tight.

When I dropped my trans. I left the engine hanging until I got the trans. out from under the car. Then I supported the engine with a small hyd. jack.

When you go back just reverse the video. Get two new shift linkage bushings from MB. They are only about a buck each and chances are that yours are old and cracked.

When you fill the trans. be sure not to over fill. It is very easy. I had to remove about a pint with a vacuum pump after it was all over.

Good Luck.