Not only does the 3M 8090 product do a great job in holding up the hood pad, but the spray nozzle on the can "throws" out the adhesive as a wiggling strand. The result is tremendous control with the applicator. I didn't use (or need) any masking and sprayed right to the edge of the hoodpad. Expensive ($17) but worth it, even for a cheap ba----- like me.

Heh Heh Heh......it's just one of those truisms.....

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

I've had good luck with the 8090 too. Check for fuel leaks. My return lines were spraying fuel [I didn't think that bad], but over time it was enough to release the glue. ANY glue will release if it's constantly exposed to fuel.

Cheers,

Bill

Funny this came up, just finished the new hood pad on the 300D this evening. Took about 2 hrs to get most of the old glue off (and I gave up, I'm old enough to know when to quit sometimes) -- the previous installer used LOTS of glue -- must have thought that if a little was good, better dip the car twice to make sure. Naturally, there wasn't any on the PAD, so it fell off anyway.

There wasn't really anything wrong with the old pad except for large sections falling off -- had to rip it to bits to get it out. Almost wish I'd just glued it back up, but I'm glad I didn't.

The new pad (from WorldPac, probably the same as from FastLane) is a fabric or fiber faced one in black with a nice aluminum heat shield for the spot where the trap oxidizer once was. This is where my old one, plain foam, no facing, failed first. Hopefully, I won't be doing this again on THIS car for a while (I have two more that need them soon....)

The new pad is very quiet -- can't even hear that bad tappet with the hood closed. The 3M adhesive seems to be working perfectly, it's stuck nicely everywhere I got glue on both sides (I didn't get really good coverage at the edges were it tucks under, didn't want it to stick in the wrong places. I left the hood all the way up for the night.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I used three of the smaller tubes of Liquid Nails for my W123 pad. Works GREAT. I'm told the only drawback is if you ever need to remove the pad in the future, the L/N is like concrete.

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Dave:

Eventually the foam will fail and you will have to scrape all that stuff of -- probably what was used on mine. I spent two or three hours soaking it down with carb cleaner and scraping and rubbing before I got enough off to make me think the new one would stay up.

I would recommend the 3M 8090 stuff, worked wonderfully for me and was very easy (after getting all the old crap off), and can be easily removed with 3M adhesive remover....

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Panel adhesive will let go from heat. Great for constructing a house. The only time my MBZ will see p.h. is when I'm hauling it back from the hardware store. And what a mess to get off.

Cheers,

Bill

Nope. Some dieselers in Arizona stress-tested the Liquid Nails on MB hood pads in their lovely 120F ambient temp summers. No problems at all. I'm not the least bit worried about re-doing the job in the future... the original pad lasted 20 years (ok, it probably should have been changed after 10 or 15) but I don't intend to own this car more than another 2-5 years, and I doubt it will last long enough to ever be concerned about cleaning off the LN residue to install a new pad...!

YMMV, etc...