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Don't try pulling the oil cooler hose off of the SDL! You could ruin the threads on the oil cooler! I don't think you get much more oil by draining the cooler, I get about 8 quarts by just pulling the plug. If it was important to drain MB would have put a plug on the cooler.
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If this is in reference to my post, the point is not to flush the cooler but the flush the tranny system through the cooler lines. The question is - is there a thermostat that causes ATF to bypass the cooler rendering this method of flushing not completely effective. Here's some info - http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm Sixto 95 S420 87 300SDL |
Sorry Sixto, unless I miss read P.E.Haiges was recomending to disconect the engine oil cooler hose when draining the engine oil? :confused:
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Hatterasguy,
Yes, I was talking about the engine oil cooler. If you noticed, I said to only loosen the nut on the oil cooler connection, not remove it and let it drip overnight to get all the oil out of the cooler. P E H |
PEH,
What's the big deal with removing the hose? Once you break it loose, the major problem is behind you. What is the big concern about cross threading? |
On the subject of tranny fluid changes...I have a filter/seal kit in my shop waiting for me to do mine. Not sure what TYPE of fluid to buy though (Notice I did not say BRAND). My MB manual only says to use MB brand fluid. Looking at the tranny fluid shelves in the stores there are several different types of fluid for different vehicles but they don't specify for MB's.
p.s. I will drain TC. |
I am a beleiver in synthetic when you have to tow or haul a load. I suppose it could be overkill in a car. It does work nice in the cold weather, though. I may change to synthetic in my 300D hoping it will help the shifting (usually rock hard) - probably not based on all I read about adjusting these things. Both Mobil and Amsoil make a good synthetic tranny fluid. They are expensive, I think about $5 - $6/qt.
The owners manual for my '79 just says ATF if I remember correctly. |
Any dexron 3 will work fine. I buy the cheap stuff because my trans is starting to slip.
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Brian,
Loosening only and not removing the lower fitting on the engine oil cooler eliminates the possibilty of cross threading the fittings when reconnecting with no detrimential effects. The flow rate of the draining oil is reduced but since I always let the oil drain overnight, the lower flow rate is of no consequence. I change my oil on even 10,000 increments and I am usually away from home when its time to change the oil. So I want to eliminate any chance of something going wrong. Not removing the oil cooler fitting is one simple way of eliminating a possible error. Another reason: those coolers are very expensive to replace if you screw one up. P E H |
Engine oil cooler draining--doesn't the oil drain out of the cooler when you remove your drain pan plug? i would think it would unless there is a check valve i don't know about... :confused:
cheers, bill |
Bill M,
NO, the oil in the cooler probably has too much plumbing to go thru to drain by itself. The output side is connected to the engine oiling system and the input goes to the oil filter and a thermostat bypass. Anyway, everytime I loosen the coupling to the engine oil cooler, black oil comes out of it. I like to get out as much used oil as I can. P E H |
P E H--thanks and next time I will loosen 'em up.
And I know what you all mean about getting the threads crossed on the cooler. I had a td once that needed one and was lucky to find a good one in the local junkyard. Got it home and proceded to get the threads crossed. Easy to do on aluminum. Needless to say when my brand new cooler arrived I was very careful. Funny how money will make you change your ways in a hurry!! :) Cheers, Bill |
screw the 27mm nut on the crank. too hard to access. :mad:
I used a 22mm? wrench on the PS pump pulley nut. Works like a champ for turning the motor over! :D So easy and no getting greasy under the car. |
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