Starting to get a little leakage from the IP at the injection Valves on the top of the IP. It's not the the fuel lines. It's coming from the groved thingies (sorry) that attach to the hard pipes.



help !

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.

It needs delivery valve seals. My 87 does that.

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

Geez, somebody actually knows what I'm talking about even though I too dumb to post a Pic.

O.K.... is it a DYI job ? Any idea as to what's involved ??

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.

It's a DIY job but you need the serrated socket to properly torque the delivery valve holders. I'm pretty sure the intake manifold has to come off so you can get a torque wrench over the delivery valves. Do a search on '603 delivery valves' There's a specific process to tighten the delivery valve holders that's covered in the factory maintenance manual but NOT in the factory service manual. Make sure you have those notes in front of you so you don't have to do the job twice.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

It needs delivery valve seals. My 87 does that. Search for "delivery valves."

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

I'm thinking of replacing the seals myself. Sixto has gratiously offered to lend me his spline wrench.

A few questions arise however.

1. Various threads say that the delivery valves need to torqued to a specified value. Some say; 20ft lbs to 25 ft. lbs

Other threads say 25 nM to 30 nm. What the heck is a nM ???

Anybody know which is which ? The above ft.lbs. does not convert the the above nM.

Either way, it's not much torque at all.

Help !!!! confused.

2. And, does the manafold need to be removed ??

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.

1) N-m is Newton-meters. Most torque wrenches have both scales.

2) You will probably need to remove the intake manifold. That's OK, it's probably time to change the gasket anyway, and while you're at it the metal injector line plastic clips and foam vibration buffers (which should be soft, not petrified rock.)

3) The torque sequence should be in the other posts. It is ONLY described in the TDM (Tech Data Manual). IIRC, you torque to 25Nm, loosen, torque to 25Nm again, loosen, then tighten to 30Nm the third time (and leave it there).

4) You must buy the special serrated socket from the dealer.

5) Order 7 or 8 of each seal & O-ring needed, I'm told you may damage at least one during the process, so you'll want a spare just in case. They're not expensive.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Pressure valve seals and holder o-rings cost me a grand $8.36 a couple years ago when I replaced the pressure valve holder seals. Removing the manifold is a waste of time unless you also need to clean it.

Here's a quick set of instructions:

Get a set of intjector line clips, you need to unclip them from the manifold and ALL the clips will break, if they are still there! These lines need to be held down, else they tend to fail at the injectors. they do that anyway, sometimes.

Unclip the lines and then remove the cap nuts at the injectors. Remove the cap nuts at the pressure valve holder (the splined things on the IP). Do not remove the retainer rings on the IP first, else you will tend to unscrew the pressure valve holder and not the line, bending the line. This is bad....

Remove the retainer rings. screws are usually stuck (no one ever uses antiseize for some reason...). Make sure you get a good bite on them, they will be MUCH harder to get out if buggered up.

Clean the top of the IP with carb cleaner, you want all the dirt off.

Using the splined socket, unscrew each pressure valve holder in turn, removing it completely. When you lift it up, usually the spring inside will stick to the holder, then fall off when you have the pressure valve holder in some incovenient place. Watch for it! Keep it absolutely clean, too!.

Use a pick of some sort to lift the copper seal ring off the pressure valve body.

Pull the old o-ring off the pressure valve holder and install the new one. Lube it will some petroleum jelly and wipe a bit on the threads of the pressure valve holder.

Carefully position the new copper seal on the pressure valve body and place the spring on the little insert. If the insert came out with the spring, the spring goes over the long end. Keep ALL dirt and grit out!

Slide the pressure valve holder down over the spring and screw it down til it stops. Torque to 20 ft/lbs, unscrew, torque to 20 ft lbs again, unscrew, and then torque to 25 ft/lbs (or 30 Nm, roughtly equivalent). If you are good with hand tightening, you don't need a torque wrench, but be carefull not to overtighten, you can crack the pressure valve body or distort the IP body, causing damage! You can also torque the three times without unscrewing the holder, I've heard both sets of instructions. I didn't release the pressure, mine works fine.

You MUST torque all three times properly or the seals will leak inside and you will get horrible injector knock, lousy performance, and serious vibration.

Re-install the lock rings, preloading them to hold the pressure valve holders tight, you don't want them to move. If they do, you get the above symptoms (one of mine was barely finger tight when i took the rings off).

Re-install the injector lines and clips, and crank until it starts. Helps to leave the nut loose at the injectors and crank until you get only fuel, also helps to hvae the engine hot when you start this job.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

alan911, if you're doing this without the benefit of a shop manual, note that the delivery valve carrier goes in with the groove down. At least that's my interpretation of the sketch in the shop manual. My SDL came with a couple of carriers with the groove up.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Peter,

I guess you were able to get the splined socket and a rachet over the delivery valves without removing the manifold ??

As you can see from my pic, I've got that manifold right over the valves. Still think I can do it without removing it?? It sure would make the job a lot easier.

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.

Um......

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.

It would make the job much easier to remove the intake manifold, but I didn't when I replaced my delivery valve seals. Makes me nostalgic thinking about that job, as it was the first thing I did to my SDL. Too bad it wasn't the last...

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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein

Well with the help of Sixto's Spline socket and Psfred's instructions I replaced the delivery valve seals.

I didn't remove the manifold. A little tight in there but I think it's done.

No more leaks and loud knocks. It took about 2 hours. You do need a 14mm flare wrench for the fule lines. My plastic fuel line clips held up fine.

Dealer wanted $500 plus all new fuel lines @ $67 a piece ($410) for a total of $910. My parts bill was $14.76.

This board rocks !! Thanks guys.

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1986 SDL
My Other Car is a Porsche. When it stops leaking, I'm out of oil.