![]() |
Sounds like the same problem I had.......EGR was not fully closing. Please check that if your's has one. I've been out of the loop for a while (many trouble free miles (fingers crossed), so I hope you're car has one.
|
Gadzooks
Quote:
You make a very good point, it is possible. :( The EGR is a breakdown waiting to happen. :eek: |
Quote:
I have a brand new line from the Banjo bolt to the Crossover on the firewall. The line from the Crossover to the ALDA looks clean. The top of the Crossover valve has some kind of rubber goo on it. I don't want to peal it off, just in case it's covering a hole or something. Would it be a good test to run direct from the Intake manifold to the ALDA to see how the performance is affected? I just don't want to do anything that will mess up the car. |
Quote:
So, would it be a good idea, performance wise and for off road use only ;) ;) ;) to block off the EGR tube? At least as a test...say using some heavy aluminum plating? |
Quote:
2) Yes, you can temporarily bypass the valve and see if there's any change. Also you want to try to blow through the valve - if you can't, it's plugged, and needs to be cleaned or replaced! :cool: |
Quote:
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/OM603_intake/ Here's what a 603 looks like with the, uh, 'heavy aluminum plating' installed: http://www.meimann.com/images/merced...EGR_after2.jpg |
the top is a vent cap!!!!!!!
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Picture attached showing cap. |
Minor correction. The cap can be sealed, or not - it doesn't matter. When properly connected (manifold to bottom port, ALDA to center, cap on top port), and the overboost switch triggers, the center port switches from default position (connected to the bottom, manifold pressure) to the top position (capped off). My 617 refuses to build over 15psi even with the wastegate disabled, so I bypassed my valve permanently (although I don't recommend this unless you understand the risks involved.)
;) |
I recommend using caution bypassing the over pressure switch. I had an issue with my '85 300D where right before it shifted and at high speed runs it would "cut out". I did some troubleshooting and found the hose that signals the wastegate had a hole in it and it was pressurizing enough to trip the over pressure switch. I can see where some engine damage could be done if the hose at the wastegate leaks badly enough to prevent it from opening up.
|
My mistake
Quote:
|
Back to the subject...
Since I started this thread I figured that I would nudge it back into the direction it was intended to go before it flew out one of those open "doors" :p .
I tweaked the ALDA and it did help. The problem is really a morning problem so I will have to see if the ALDA tweak really helps the real problem in the morning when I start out of the drive. Thanks for the input. BTW, would any of you be interested in a 1984 380SEL? It is complete but has no title. My friend wants $300 for it. It supposedly has a bad fuel distributor. Hey, I hijacked my own thread! :confused: :p :rolleyes: Kevin |
Please see my post about Fuel Pump replacement/rebuilding
I was in this identical position once and the Forum convinced me my engine was dead. The good thing was I got a new 87 300D out of it, because thats what I bought instead of a new engine!
Later on, I found out that the Fuel Pump was toast. They do that sometimes because of incosiistent fuel quality and low sulfur in today's modern diesel....3 ou of 5 barrels were dead, the ALDA had a BAD leak, other parst were dead ... |
Quote:
-- eskimo |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:08 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website