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  #1  
Old 08-26-2004, 12:26 AM
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Crank Pulley Removal?

OK, The crank kpulley is loose on the 300D my brother has. As in if you put pressure on the belt it will stop the belts as the engine keeps running. This creates a problem removing the crank pulley because there is no way to bind the crank to get the pulley bolt loose.

My thought was to pull an injector and put an object in there (hopefully removable) that would stop the piston once it reached TDC.

Anyone have any better options? Of course I would rather not have to pull the tranny to get to the flywheel!

Thanks,
Stephen

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85 300D 305K miles WVO(105K so far), Mine
82 300SD 235K miles BIO-D, Wifes
96 F250 SC PSD 4X4 285K MILES BIO-D, Ours
89 BRONCO 182K MILES sold
Finally Compression Ignition Only!
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2004, 01:56 AM
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Location: Northern Va.
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I had a crank pulley problem with my 84 300SD. I replaced the pulley twice and the second time put 4 dowels pins to keep the pulley on. After that I no more problems for 50K until I hit a deer at 65. I think you have the same problem...no bolt in the crank pulley and it's just spining on the crank. My crank was a little messed up so that's I put extra dowels in.
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1983 300SD 343K everyday car
1983 300SD 285K from junk yard-tooks parts from deer car- runs great. Brothers car.
1984 300SD parts car-Hit deer
1979 300D 175K non-turbo "Doctor"
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2004, 02:35 AM
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You can put a large screw driver up through one of the two hole in the front bottom of bellhousing catching a tooth on the flywheel to lock the engine
while another person looswens the crank bolt. Don't put anything into an injector hole!!!

William Rogers.............
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2004, 06:55 AM
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Inserting a rope through the spark plug hole on a small engine is a good way to hold the piston.... or some machines specify taking the head off and placing a piece of wood in the bore to do the same thing...( like Gravely)...
However, that does not work on our cars due to the precombustion chamber being in the way... and much easier methods being available than taking the Precombustion chambers out....... as have been mentioned...
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2004, 07:23 AM
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If you are trying to remove the Crankshaft bolt,

just take a 27mm socket, attach it to a long handled ratchet wrench , or one with a piece of pipe on it to make it longer, set the wrench in the direction to lossen the bolt.
Brace the handle of the ratchet wrench against something strong in the compartment, like the frame rail. Then spin the motor with the engine starter and the bolt will loosen easily.
I thought everyone in the world knew this trick. Am I misinterpreting something? Also wrap the handle of the wrench in a Thick Towel, so when it kicks back after the impact it doesnt hurt anything or scratch paint.
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2004, 07:25 AM
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Can any1 tell me about my suggestion?

again I am curious...if Leather mang posted this, I know he is very Capable...
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2004, 07:30 AM
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That is one way to do it... but I do worry about putting that info out given we can not control how safely it is applied.... I would sure put into the post something about tying the handle to the frame, wearing goggles, and closing the hood.... and no one else being in the shop area at the time... and sitting inside the car to do it to activate the starter... not using a jumper with the hood up and standing there watching it.... in case something unforeseen happens... ...
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  #8  
Old 08-26-2004, 07:43 AM
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I think I've done this 30 times

and never had a problem. I know it sounds like their is the possibilty of sending the wrench flying out your engine, across the lawn, and through the neighbor's wall, into their family room and then into their BIG SCREEN TV,
.......but actually the procedure has always been very tame and and is one of the safest I have used.

The wrench moves little and actaully once the bolt is loosened in 1 microsec, it loses all its kinetic energy instantly, and it just sits their innocently. Even if you are not smart and spin the starter for 5 minutes, the wrench will no longer have any K.E. after the first microsecond and it will make no differnce.
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2004, 08:17 AM
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I think you have misused the term "safe" - you may not have damaged anything or hurt anyone (yet) but I would certainly not advertise this procedure as "safe".

I've always been able to get the crank bolt loose with the screwdriver wedged into the ring gear trick, there is a special service tool that accomplishes the same task but its a bit pricey - around $150 if I remember correctly.
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  #10  
Old 08-26-2004, 09:54 AM
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Tim, you have your right to say that

but I dont think you have tried it or understand what I am saying. You dont have to be a Physics student to understand that the wrench is not in a position to go anywhere because it absorbs rotatational torque passively and not dynamically and it in transfers that torque into a linear force exerted against the frame of the car.
However considering the general ignorance of your posts I can understand your intelligence in thinking the crankshaft rotation will send the wrench flying at 190 mph out of the engine compartment. All you are doing is letting the starter motor do the work for you.
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  #11  
Old 08-26-2004, 10:06 AM
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Tim I hope you took that post

as a joke. I am from Delaware also. I know you are a bright, decent guy, bu that was payback for your saying i care too much about what others think about me..thanks for the input

respectfully Carrameow
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2004, 10:25 AM
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The procedure that Carrameow described is the best/easiest/quickest way to remove crank damper bolts, if you do not have access to air tools. It is about the only way one person will be able to get the bolt loose without an impact wrench. You are only bumping the starter once, not trying to start the engine. The screwdriver into the flywheel works good, but is not always
a one person job, and not all cars have access .
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2004, 10:46 AM
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Yall need to remember that we have people of Every Possible degree of mechanical experience ( or lack thereof ) represented by ' our ' readers.... and you should be sure to include as many safety warnings as you can to keep the ' fools' reading from hurting themselves... people with a little mechanical experience should not have trouble with this procedure.....
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2004, 12:01 PM
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An impact wrench is not a viable option unless you can get it in there - items like radiator, condensor, body are sort of in the way. Plus, even if the space is free you need a good one. bolt is typically torqued to 270-300 Nm or something like that
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2004, 12:08 AM
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Location: Northern California
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Thanks for the info!

The starter bump method sounds sounds a little dangerous. That will be perfect!!! If there is no mystery and a little danger what's the fun of working on your car anyway? I believe I will find that trick very usefull in the future.

Stephen

__________________
85 300D 305K miles WVO(105K so far), Mine
82 300SD 235K miles BIO-D, Wifes
96 F250 SC PSD 4X4 285K MILES BIO-D, Ours
89 BRONCO 182K MILES sold
Finally Compression Ignition Only!
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