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  #1  
Old 09-14-2004, 08:32 AM
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grease kit?

I'm interested in building/installing a grease kit on my 1984 190d after having had a go round with a 1986 vw golf diesel with 250k. The vw's kit installed had issues surrounding the use of a plastic 5 gallon boat fuel tank that wasn't properly sealed. Back pressure could build and overflow said tank via crappy gasketing. Anyway, I'd like to use the MB's existing tank for grease (I think) and install a small diesel fuel tank in the trunk somewhere for the initial starting fuel. Anyone done this? A buddy of mine runs a restaurant and I have a constant supply of fryolator oil that when heated and screened (5 microns?) is good to go.

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  #2  
Old 09-14-2004, 11:17 AM
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No reason you couldn't go that route. Personally though I'd put the oil in the trunk. That way you don't have to worry about spilled Deisel fuel.

I actually toyed with the idea of doing exactly what you are talking about. However, I decided I'd rather spill vegi oil on my shoes, pants and trunk as opposed to deisel fuel.

You can see my conversion at

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=447609751&f=444600361&m=813100992

I've made some modifications since then, but nothing major.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

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  #3  
Old 09-14-2004, 12:06 PM
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some questions for JamesStein...

I have a couple of questions about your conversion...

1. how did you attach the grease-oil lines to the grease tank in the trunk? did you use some type of epoxy?

2. what have you found to be the best way to filter the veggie oil that you collect? (also, as a former Tallahassean, where do you get your oil? just curious... I bet Guthries (sp?) has plenty of oil to give!!)
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  #4  
Old 09-14-2004, 12:20 PM
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#1 -- They are just stuck in through holes I drilled. I was going to epoxy them or use silicone sealent.. but I was lazy and never bothered. I don't fill the tank all the way up to avoid possible spillage through the gaps.

#2 -- I've got a 75 micron sock filter. Bought it a long time ago for some other use. I prefilter with that. Then I filter into some 5 micron sock type filters I bought from filterbags.com. They are poly and washable. Lots of Dawn and greasy hands. I seem to get about 50 gal through the 75 micron before it slows to the point that I wash it. and I can get about 5 gal though the 5 micron filters before I wash them. I sacrificed my garden tub in the master bathroom as a filtering station. Of course it has a crack in the fiberglass and wasn't being used as a tub anyway.

I don't get my oil from Guthries.. although the thought had crossed my mind to ask them. I imagine that Crystal River would have a bunch as well.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.
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  #5  
Old 09-14-2004, 10:59 PM
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thanks for the link

thanks for the response and related info.
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  #6  
Old 09-15-2004, 11:09 AM
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Johny and Joel on the web site that James takes you too their is a very extensive FAQ's and DIY info about installing grease systems in cars. Part of it is very MB specific.

Here is the link to the FAQ/DIY's on collecting waste vege oil and installing a waste vege oil fuel system on your diesel car.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2004, 12:43 PM
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Hey johnny2,

I use these plastic marine fuel tanks in my conversions. I never reccomend a return to tank unless there is some form of restrictor or float switch to prevent an inadvertant overflow. Since my coolant heated fuel pickup/tank heater is installed through the side fo the tank I have found that the best sealant to use is "Goop" brand adhesive/sealant. But I do not rely on just sealant..there is a double nut and washer which allows the unit to "sandwich" the tank wall.

I too prefer a trunk mounted vegoil tank. It is possible to retrofit the stock tank to vegoil but it is expensive and a PITA. Regardless..i alsways suggest using long enough lines so teh tank can be removed from the trunk for filling. Spills are inevitable..and both deisel and rancid wvo can diminish the joy of driving around on nearly free fuel..in a Benz.

I would plug my conversions..but if you want more info just check the link already provided.

Dana
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http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2004, 02:34 PM
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I purchased all of Dana Linscotts info. While it is not vehicle specific, it does cover many of the conversion topics thoroughly. Much thought has been put into the files and they are well worth the money. If you are at all mechanically inclined assembling your own WVO system will cost much less than buying one. RT
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  #9  
Old 09-15-2004, 03:32 PM
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Try using Simple Green to clean the filter instead of Dawn. It's a heck of a good solvent and cheap and will cut just about any kind of grease bio or petro. And it works on old dirty grease really well too. Good stuff to clean engines with also. One gallon of the concentrate is around 10 dollars.

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  #10  
Old 09-15-2004, 03:38 PM
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Oh I've got tons of SG laying around. Thats what I use to wash my cars, my boat, my floors.. I use it as bath soap too.. (actually not bath soap).

Not sure why I didn't try it for the filters....

I imagine it'll work alot better than the Dawn.. and cheaper too.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.
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  #11  
Old 09-15-2004, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danalinscott

I never reccomend a return to tank unless there is some form of restrictor or float switch to prevent an inadvertant overflow.
Unless your only returning to a single tank, there shouldn't ever be any danger of an overflow. I prefer the return line since you don't need to bother with bleeding the air out of the system.

I've talked to several people who talk about their daily routine of fueling and bleeding and priming..

I didn't even prime when I first drew the oil through my lines.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2004, 04:12 PM
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Something is wrong if folks have to bleed every day. I have bled air out of my conversions once..when they were installed. After that...no problem. And all my conversions have a looped vegoil circuit..no return to tank on vegoil..only diesel. With a wel designed conversion using vegoil is as simple as diesel with no extra hassles.

Seriously. If you want to learn about the advances made in vegoil conversion technology recently try the infopop vegoil forum http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=frm&s=447609751&f=159605551

The best vegoil fuel vorum around..adn lots of experienced folks there to help before, during, and after conversion. And a few folks like Coach that have added features to make it simpler for folks new to vegoil fuel to ge up to speed quickly wihtout trawling the archives or asking questions that have already been answered.

I am about to complete an addition on the 10 steps to conversion which will be posted as a sticky so it is easy for newcommers to find.

And there are folks there who have installed every kit there is ..as well as my "DIY from scratch" custom conversions. Hope to see you there.
Dana
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http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2004, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlssmith
Try using Simple Green to clean the filter instead of Dawn. It's a heck of a good solvent and cheap and will cut just about any kind of grease bio or petro. And it works on old dirty grease really well too. Good stuff to clean engines with also. One gallon of the concentrate is around 10 dollars.
One note of caution on this: we were told not to use Simple Green on an airplane because it promotes corrosion on aluminum (see, for example, http://www.acilss.com/simple_green.htm ).

I'd been thinking there are not a lot of aluminum parts under our hoods, but it sounds like there are, and it's worth doing a very thorough rinsing if you do use SG.

Last edited by bmisf; 09-15-2004 at 05:12 PM.
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  #14  
Old 09-15-2004, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmisf
Probably not a lot of aluminum parts under our hoods, but worth doing a very thorough rinsing if you do use SG.
There is plenty of aluminum under an MB hood, starting with the valve cover right up top.

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