So the engines on these diesels will last a long time. So my concern is the body. When a body panel gets full of plastic, or is not worth fixing, could the panel be replaced with another? I figure its done after car crashes, so why not? I know next to nothing about body work, so give me your wisdom.

I cant see a 123 lasting a million or 700,000 miles with the original body.

I live in NJ, so it does snow, and Im trying to think of a way to get atleast 300,000 to 400,000 miles out of a 123.

Thanks

keeping ahead of structural / non-cosmetic rust is another matter. The durability of interiors and many mechanical components is remarkable, and if kept clean, most W123s can still be considered presentable with "normal" fender rust.

There were until recently very good replacement panels imported from Holland for these cars...that source has since dried up, but demand is out there and growing.

Buy a $500 winter beater and spare the MB from the road salt. I only drive my MB on really nice winter days when the roads are dry or it is warm enough that I can wash her thoroughly when I get home. Overkill? Sure, but they don't make these anymore so I have to make it last. I'd rather let something less valuable rot away. There are lots of reliable but rusty older jap cars that are perfect for this purpose. RT

__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

Depending on where this panel is you describe with plastic, assuming that you mean "Bondo" a polyester body filler? Bondo is no good, it absorbs moisture and rust will form on the metal it is covering.

Drive the car up on some ramps, or even better, take the car to a garage and put it up on the lift and really inspect the undercarriage for rust and rot.

The 82 300D I had briefly (bought the car for the engine) was rotted below the doors on the underbody rendering this car to fail state safety inspection.

I have looked at several great running 123's that were for sale, only to walk away in disgust after seeing the cancer.

If you catch rust in time, you can have it repaired. A good body shop can repair just about anything but you would have to weigh car value vs. repair cost. At some point it is just not worth it!

When I say plastic, yes, I mean body filler.

On a old car like the 123's, the previous owners have probaly had rust repaired with body filler. My understanding is that body filler is bad, and either a new panel, or a metal patch welded in is favorable. After a while, I dont think its best to keep adding body filler. So what im asking is:

Could a good body panel be taken off a parts car, and used to replace a rusted panel easily? I'd rather do that than add body filler, or have to patch it with sheet metal.






Im still looking for my car, perferably a 240D manual transmission. Any places you would reccommed looking?

Thanks

I believe the answer to your question is yes. Depending on the size of the area in question and complexity of shape, if not to large, most shops can also fabricate small panels but if you need a section such as a whole rear quarter, find one in the junk yard and arrange to have it cut out. It all depends on the shop you go to, all are different and priced different too!

I'd check out a few shops for prices, and if you can, look at the quality level of work they produce, while most are reputable, some are not!

Good Luck...................

mbzkid,

I agree with rwthomas1. Get a inexpensive older car to use in the winter. It will cost less than repairing the body on your MB and then you just have a patch job.

The only way to stop salt from rusting any car is not to drive the car in the salt.

P E H

I have a truely rust free 1979 300SD I bought in Tempe Arizona. I am on the east coast now and I keep it off the roads in the winter. It didn't get to be in this condition by beeing driven on salt covered roads and don't wish to start the rust now.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Bonehead,

I have an '80 300SD in the same condition as yours. Why, always garage it in the winter. I bought it in SC 15 years ago. 252,000 miles and barly a bit of rust.

I get a kick out of the guys that are so worried about what kind of oil to use in the winter and then go out and drive their car in road salt that does more irrepariable damage than any kind of oil could do.

P E H

Coming from the Great White North, (Canada) rust is a serious problem due to the massive amounts of salt they use on the roads. The best way to avoid rust is to get a winter beater. But for some of us that is not an option.

The first thing to do for winter prep is find all the drainage holes on the body (along the firewall, under the car and behind the back wheels). Make sure these are clear of leaves and debris as they will plug and retain water. Standing water on metal is bad, standing water mixed with road salt can be devastating.

Up here many people rely solely on the factory under coating. This has gotten much better over the past ten years. My `84 300d needs more help so once every two years I have my car sprayed with rust inhibitor. They spray under the car, under the fenders and inside the doors (Via small access holes that are then plugged). They pull out the plastic inserts in the trunk and spray in behind the wheels. These are specialized secret (read expensive, to us, not them) formulas. They are designed to stick to the metal and make a barrier to corrosive substances. But they also have light components which travel to get into the small nooks and crannies. Think of butter on paper; the butter doesn't move but it creates an expanding grease stain. I have developed a grease mark that runs along the bottom of the doors and begins to run up the door skin. this attracts dust and dirt. You get a dirty car but you know (think) that the treatment is working.

You can go for a used oil underspray. But this can be messy as it will drip. To avoid the dripping some people immediately drive down dusty gravel road and allowing the dust to seal the oil in. The other problem with oil spray is that it is often too viscous to travel, unlike the secret formulas mentioned above.

If you have rust bubbling grind it out, rust never sleeps and it never cures itself. If you don't have time to fix it before winter at least squirt some oil on any place the rust has broken through. It won't cure the problem but it should significantly slow the growth until you can get at it in the spring.

If you grind out the rust, be sure to finish with a wire wheel to remove as much of the rust pitting as possible. I usually follow this up with rust treatment. I have had good luck with "Rustmort" but there are other commercial preparations. These treatments stop what little amounts of rust which are left from continuing to oxidize. You will likely have to put a thin layer of bondo over the rust treatment. The thinner, the better.

If you follow these steps you will have a fine vintage benz ready for the winter. Soon thereafter some dimwit will slide through a stop sign on an icy intersection and T-bone you, which makes the whole process moot.

Schooner,

Yes, the T-bone is another good reason to park your MB in a garage for the winter.

Can you give me an idea as to what the treatment costs?

I remember watching a truck show, and to prevent corrosion,and/or rust(not sure), they used a module. It puts a charge through the body of the car, which they mounted under the hood. Its about the size of a cell phone.

Anybody know what im talking about?


About the panels being cut. I wouldnt be able to unbolt a panel from a parts car and put it onto the good car?

Thanks

gsxr,

110*C may be abnormal but not dangerous. Notice that the red mark on the temp gage is about 130*C, about the boiling point of a 50% ethelene glycol and water mix pressurized at 15 PSI and the boiling is another 60*C higher if using 100% Evans coolant unpressurized.

Only temps above the boiling temp are dangerous because then you start to lose coolant causing further overheating.

P E H

Mine has 118,000 miles and everything but the Cruise works. True its not worth much relatively speaking but rusted out its worth far less. Its a joy to drive. I need to post a picture of it. Period AMG rims (Ronal R-9) Euro bumpers and Euro headlights. Tobacco interior (dark brown) and the Tan exterior.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

speaking of great winter beaters: 76 Volvo 244 for sale, $500 strong runner, new tires, alternator, motor mounts. Heater will roast your nuts if you don't turn it down