Need some advice on replacing the rear subframe bushings on my W126. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #1 09-16-2004, 10:54 PM

Ok the way I understand this job is first: I have to remove the bracket, then the big center bolt. After that I can lower the rear subframe down enough to get the old bushing out and replace it with a new one. My questions are should I leave the car on its 4 wheels and put a jack under the read subframe? That way I could slowly let the jack down until their is just enough room to get the old bushings out. Or should I put the back of the car on jack stands? Also what should I use to get the new bushings in? I assume some lube should be used to get it in their, dish soap maybe?

sixto · #2 09-16-2004, 11:05 PM

http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/sframe.htm

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

FrankM · #3 09-16-2004, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

My questions are should I leave the car on its 4 wheels and put a jack under the read subframe? That way I could slowly let the jack down until their is just enough room to get the old bushings out. Or should I put the back of the car on jack stands? Also what should I use to get the new bushings in? I assume some lube should be used to get it in their, dish soap maybe?

leave the wheels on. use the jack to press the old ones out, you need to put a big socket behind them to act as a stop.
Use the (floor) jacket to press the new one in. I use silicon spray for lube..

tjohn · #4 09-16-2004, 11:10 PM

I think most folk end up following a version of the Ritter/Easley list instructions. On my car it took like 40 minutes.

bhatt · #5 09-22-2004, 08:45 AM

Spray the big center bolts with PB Blaster a few days before you start the job, then again the day before. These bolts are usually rusted/corroded and are tough to get out. The soak in PB Blaster helps immensely!

Neal

Hatterasguy · #6 09-22-2004, 09:05 AM

I was just going to up date this thread.

I changed them this Sunday, it was a very simple job thanks to Stu Ritters guide. The old ones were ok but starting to show their age and the rear end of the car now feels better on the highway.

But I have a question why are the new subframe bushings different then the old ones? The new ones seem to have half the rubber?

Next week I will be doing the, diff mount, idler arm rebuild, and a tie rod end. Hopefully I can get this car to start driving like an S-class on the highway again.

hangit · #7 04-13-2008, 12:48 PM

I just performed this maintenance on my 300SD. Replaced the rear subframe bushings as well as the front carrier bracket bushings. The rear subframe bushings came out easily with the threaded rod removal tool pictured on this forum. The carrier brackets I had to remove and take to my indy to use his press to remove old and press in new bushings. His mechanic gave me a tip that worked extremely well when pressing in the bushings. Lube the bushings with petroleum jelly. WOW, what a difference in getting them to press in. Once I got them started in the housing they just kept on going.

I'll use this advice on all future pressed in bushing replacements.

John

sixto · #8 04-13-2008, 01:13 PM

Don't petroleum based lubricants degrade rubber? Silicone based lubricants like Silglyde (sp?) are safer.

Sixto
87 300D

Hatterasguy · #9 04-13-2008, 01:42 PM

Ahh this thread brings back memories.

bhatt · #10 04-13-2008, 06:01 PM

I would avoid using petroleum jelly (Vaseline) as it does degrade the rubber over time.

If you want a safe, easy to find lubricant (available at any drugstore) try K-Y jelly. It is safe for rubber such as latex and helps assist you in inserting the male part into the female part easier.

Oh, and it works for subframe bushings and other car parts too

But seriously, KY Jelly works just fine for rubber parts and is completely safe.

Just don't buy the KY along with 5 boxes of latex gloves (the ones you buy to keep dirt off your hands when working on the car). You get weird looks at the drugstore. Ask my how I know

hangit · #11 04-13-2008, 08:18 PM

I don't know why the mechanics were using the Petroleum jelly on bushings, O-rings etc. since it degrades rubber. There could not have been much left on the bushing since I could see it being expressed as I pressed the bushing in. Not sure if our bushings are latex since that is definitely degraded by it.

Next time I'll use the silicone jelly!

John

latitude500 · #12 04-12-2010, 06:04 PM

This post is pretty old, but does anyone have the write up for http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/sframe.htm
because his site is down.

I'm about to order these from Phil and would like any help I can get.
Thanks

charmalu · #13 04-12-2010, 08:37 PM

Is this it?

http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/easley/sframe.htm

to get into their site, you have to subscribe to it. there should be a link to click on for the info.

Iam going to order sub frame and trailing arm bushings as well from Phill tomarrow.

Charlie

SD Blue · #14 04-13-2010, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by latitude500

This post is pretty old, but does anyone have the write up for http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/sframe.htm
because his site is down.

I'm about to order these from Phil and would like any help I can get.
Thanks

Getting the old ones off isn't too bad. After pulling the bolt, I just put a large socket between the chassis and the bushing then jacked it up again. The weight of the car just pushes it out.

To install the new one use a little KY, as mentioned earlier in this post. The trickier part is getting the suspension to line up to restart the bolt. I used a come-along, attached front-to-rear, then with slight raising/lowering of the jack to align the trailing arm and made starting the bolt really easy.

latitude500 · #15 04-13-2010, 11:19 AM

Thank you that is what I needed.