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#1
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wont start for anything! 1985 300SD
Ok i have a 1985 300sd w126 196,000 miles on it. I just did an engine swap (old engine was supposedly seized), but there was no fuel coming from the injection pump. I called the injection pump shop and they said it would cost 150-200$ to even test the pump, so the guy gave me a couple of tips. He said to try and use some wd-40 as starting fluid to at least get it to run a while to see if that would bleed the air out... (i just replaced the primer pump w/ the new version, and bled the lines many times) anyway, it would not even start on wd-40 in the intake! i tryed many different amounts of wd-40 and nothing. Do you think that i have a vacuum line on wrong?? or could it be the new custom air intake tube i just put on it.
www.pgmfi.org/~firepyroandy << this is my website with pix, please click on "new engine installed" to see wear i am. I really dont know much about the car, i got it for 300$ and am starting to think that i should have boughten a running car.. please help me out if you can. Last edited by 1985 300SD Sady; 06-18-2005 at 11:10 AM. |
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#2
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Keep waiting. There are many members that have the experience to help you. I don't have a clue yet on the IP portion of the fuel delivery system.
One thing, have you done searches on the topic? Most of the members like to know that you have put the effort into checking. Possibly you have but if so, state that you have. If not, please do so and post something referencing what you found or didn't find. Kind of like affirmation . . . Welcome to the club . . .
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Steve '87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale '84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving '77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored '08 250EX Ninja English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms. |
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#3
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Try this, loosen one injector fuel line nut at the injector, Hold a rag there to catch any fuel, have some one crank the engine over, You getting any fuel to the injectors????? How long did the engine you just put in set? How long has it been since it last ran?
Swap out the pump with the old one if this one won't pump fuel. Same engine, same pump, should work.
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Den 1993 MB 300D 2.5 2001 VW Jetta TDI 5 spd. 2001 new bug TDI 5 spd. Motorcycles |
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#4
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One more thing, how long did that car sit since it last ran??? You may have a tank full of , well, I'd call it just plain crap. You may have to drain it, clean it, de bug it, and put all new fuel in there with some fuel boost.
Have fun.
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Den 1993 MB 300D 2.5 2001 VW Jetta TDI 5 spd. 2001 new bug TDI 5 spd. Motorcycles |
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#5
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it has only been about 3 weeks since the car has ran, the fuel is ok im 99% positive. I have tryed everything and am probably very soon going to order the new IP... also, i have searched, over and over, usually i find people that have IP's that work on at least 1,2,3 sometimes 4 of the five. I havent found one yet that has an IP that doesnt work at all. And like i said, im feeling worryed b/c my engine wont even run on wd-40... Anything i should try?
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#6
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Did you do a compression test? Maybe it has very low compression. Also have you checked the valve's?
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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#7
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Quote:
Also, when you push that new primer pump about 50 times you should hear the pressure build up in the secondary filter and you will probably hear a bit of fuel come out of the top of the secondary filter if you have completely filled it up. How long has it been since the old IP has run? The lift pump could be NG on this IP even though the engine might be fine. I'm not sure how to test the lift pump, by itself. Maybe someone else can provide some guidance on this. |
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#8
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Your vacuum system is not right.
The injection pump vacuum lines are mixed up. Match the following pictures and it should run. You have a bad MOD, look for the danger picture. This will take more than one post, but I am trying to give you pictures of each change needed.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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#9
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Getting tired
Here are more pix, don't have time to edit in the color codes tonight.
EGR and boost limit valve vacuum lines. Vacuum controller is Right front corner by horn. |
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#10
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your the man! this is exactly what i needed, thank you so much... i will do this tomorrow right when i get home from school. is there anyway i could thank you?? id be willing to pay... lol. thank you so much, you have no idea what this means to me. Thanks for taking the time for correcting the "newbie" , and i want you to know that i didnt rig up the vac lines like this, this is how it was when i got it. Anyway, thanks for setting me straight... ( i did rig the oil breather line, sorry about that... )
Thanks again. |
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#11
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Based on your statement that the engine ran a few weeks ago per the previous owner, here is my list. Some of this has already been said.
Make sure the supply and return fuel lines are hooked up correctly. Make sure the linkage functions so the IP is at the idle stop position. Disconnect the vacuum line to the back of the IP. leave it off. Crack an injector to see if fuel comes out when cranking. Check if glow system is working and check each plug to see if they all work. Check valve adjustment. Remove air filter. Leave it off. Check for fungus in tank by seeing if hand pump creates a vacuum. Additionally IP failure rate is very low and you don't need to worry about vacuum lines right now. You can disconnect them all. They have nothing to do with the engine. They are there to make the transmission and EGR work. Diesels don't depend on vacuum. You can correct them later when the engine is running. Good luck, Peter
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
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#12
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Quote:
Fuel lines hooked up correctly (check) Linkage (check) All the vacuum lines are disconected (check) I did crack all the hard lines next to the injectors, and got no fuel at any port ( no check ) I ordered a new glow plug relay yesterday, should be coming soon (no check ) ^^^ But having no GP's wouldnt effect it not starting on starting fluid would it? I know valves, and engine is right, because the guy i bought it from pulled it from a car that had been rear ended, he said it started first time everytime. (check ??) is there any simple way of checking valve timing?? please explain.. i took the air filter off soon after i was first trying to start it. (check) How do i check the hand pump for vacuum, i know it gets harder to push on (i did upgrade) is that it?? (Check???) Thanks auto. |
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#13
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Quote:
In such a condition, the engine might never start. I could be as simple as just opening up this breather port and it will run. |
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#14
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Brian,
Good observation. I completely missed that, because I didn't look at the pics since I wasn't interested in vacuum circuits. With a sealed crankcase on the MB diesel, crankcase pressures build in the IP and push the shut off diaphragm to the off position just like turning off the key. Peter
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
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#15
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Peter,
We had a similar discussion about plugging the breather port on an engine running at idle. My thoughts were that it builds crankcase pressure until the idle fuel is not sufficient for it to run. However, this theory might be all wrong. Can you explain the details behind this condition where the pressure in the crankcase triggers the vacuum shut off valve? I'm not at all clear on the mechanics of this and how a vacuum shut off valve can be affected by crankcase pressure. It is my understanding that the shut off valve has a sealed diaphragm on the back of the IP that is used for vacuum. How can crankcase pressure get in there? Last edited by Brian Carlton; 09-24-2004 at 01:03 PM. |
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