prechamber ball fell off - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #16 09-23-2004, 01:16 PM

Thanks jbaj007, will have to get my manual out... or , it sounds like you have this stuff figured out... how about posting the proper dimensions for me to work from ? Not just this tool.... any tools you want to share specs on... I am sure you have some spiffy AC tools you have made...
I have a 6 inch Atlas ( pre WW2 ) lathe and a Burke number 4 mill...
what I need is an OPERATOR.... LOL
Any specs that you know of .... like what the inside of that slot driver should be.... please send them to me...

TX76513 · #17 09-23-2004, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Leo

Enough already. So I tossed the old chain; live with it.

Not all of us have the luxury of living on 40 acres of entropy workshop that passers by sometimes confuse with shuttle Columbia's debris field.

LOL

jbaj007 · #18 09-23-2004, 01:32 PM

Greg,

I've got a Shimano crank remover tool with the correct threads for the modification to prechamber puller. The possibility of using it to press the prechamber in also exists, as there is another hollow "bolt" over it. PM or email me with an address and you're welcome to it; just loan it to me if I ever need it.

erubin · #19 09-23-2004, 04:22 PM

OK, Was able to plead and beg a machine shop to lend me their tool. the locking nut is removed with somethging that looks like a socket with two ears. It has a pilot shaft that threads into the injector hole so that the ears stay tightly engaged because bolt holds the pilot shaft to the "socket".

the extractor is simply a slide hammer that threads into the prechamber. Took about 150 slaps to pull it out.

the destroyed prechamber has two big holes in it where the ball spokes used to be attached. i couldn't find any metal on the piston and the piston head doesn't look ball peened so hopefully all is well once it's all back together.

Next: I think this problems came about because 2000 miles ago the mechanic didn't bother reaming the glow plug hole of its carbon. Now i am suggesting reaming all the other holes that were also fitted with new glow plugs. Where do I get such a reamer?

Elliot

leathermang · #20 09-23-2004, 04:37 PM

First click on Fastlane button at top of page.... ask Phil if he has one... If he does not then Performance Products carries them....
But ( here we go again ) you could make one yourself... does anyone have the specs on this thing? it is really simple... I have seen pictures of them... a short reamer with threads at the back of it to keep it aligned and stop it at the proper distance in.... but I think a vacuum cleaner should be attached to the injector hole when reaming to make sure the stuff goes UP and OUT.. instead of maybe falling below the pintle ball and maybe stopping up one of those 7 tiny holes which are needed for good performance...

erubin · #21 09-23-2004, 04:55 PM

Oh no. I need to take off the injectors when i ream the holes? i just ordered parts and did not get a full set of those prechamber heat seals that are supposed to be replaced each time an injector comes off.

leathermang · #22 09-23-2004, 06:07 PM

Well, that is my considered opinion...
Carbon is likely to break off in chunks when you start in with the reamer... even if you put grease in the reamer channels to try to bring it back out of the hole...
I would wait and take out the injectors if I were you...
Sorry...
However, if you wait long enough someone will post saying I am way too conservative and cautious... then you could do it and feel better ( ?) about not doing it my way...
LOL

autozen · #23 09-23-2004, 07:58 PM

Elliot,
You were lucky to gain access to the proper tool. The prechamber reaming tool is not to remove carbon but to align the hole in the prechamber after a valve job where machining is involved. The rings at the top of the prechambers are not seals but spacers to control the depth of the pre chamber into the combustion chamber. You need to pull all the pre chambers and check to see how far the balls have receeded. If they are normal. you have excess oil consumption in that cylinder and future pre chambers will probably fail.

Peter

leathermang · #24 09-23-2004, 08:53 PM

So , from the person who advocates, against the advise of the Factory shop manual, using the Power Steering Nut to turn the engine for setting the valves....

comes this :

"The prechamber reaming tool is not to remove carbon but to align the hole in the prechamber after a valve job where machining is involved."

Having discovered Strunk and White's " The Elements of Style" early in my life I appreciate people using positive bold declarative sentences.

And since you do not think that the Mercedes Factory Shop Manual is important information this is not addressed to you.

For everyone else.... THE REAMER IS ALSO SPECIFIED FOR CLEANING CARBON OUT OF THE GLOW PLUG HOLE.

This is repeatedly spelled out starting on page 15.4-512/2 in the 616 ,617 non turbo manual. I did not look in my 617.952 manual ... I figure the engine designs are close enough to cover both.... LOL

They say to coat the threads with grease... and to turn the engine over with the starter to blow out the carbon... but I personally don't know how to make sure you only blow... not get a downstroke on a piston and lodge something below the pintle...

autozen · #25 09-23-2004, 09:01 PM

Leathermong,

You will always be an ammature. You say that the reamer is also specified to clean carbon out of the glow plug hole. What is the primary purpose?

Peter

leathermang · #26 09-23-2004, 09:12 PM

This thread is about a glow plug tip that broke off...

The factory shop manual says that ( and has pictures of broken tips) tips can burn off due to build up of carbon... causing a short to the block...

Most Diesels run enough miles to get carbon LONG before they need a head job which might involve the need for shimming the glow plugs and thus reaming to re-fit.

So I say that the reamer's primary purpose is to clean the carbon out of the glow plug holes.

Anyway, you said it was NOT FOR CLEANING the carbon out... not that that was the secondary purpose...

You can't win.

erubin · #27 09-23-2004, 11:01 PM

Autozen must be smoking something strong. Makes pretty good fiction, maybe he's just joking. I hope he doesn't mislead anybody though.

autozen · #28 09-23-2004, 11:16 PM

Erubin,
I don't smoke anything, but you and Leathermung need to get up to speed on diesel engines before you can join the big league. You have one MB diesel and I have owned hundreds and worked on many more since my factory training 30 years ago.

Peter

autozen · #29 09-23-2004, 11:59 PM

Leathermang,
First of all if you feel you need a head job, you need to go to the sleazy part of town at night and negotiate the best price you can. If you need a valve job, I suggest you seek the services of a professional mechanic. Diesels don't build carbon and don't need the glow plug holes reamed. Between my clients and me, we have racked up millions of miles and have not found any need to get our glow plug holes reamed. I think you read the manual like religious fanatics read the bible. You can read all sorts of things in either reference, but that doesn't make any of it true. Gosh, I should go ream the glow plug holes on my 83 300TDT, because after 345,000 miles, they must be all clogged up. It might start burning oil, or get hard to start, or start loosing power or something. Gee, Mr Bill, what should I do?

Peter

gsxr · #30 11-17-2004, 11:34 AM

Side note for leathermang's post above: There is a prechamber seat reamer, and a glow plug reamer. The GP reamer is used to remove carbon. The seat reamer is NOT. Two completely different tools, completely different functions.

That said, if anyone is interested in the correct tools to R&R the prechambers:

For Sale: New prechamber removal tools