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  #16  
Old 09-27-2004, 10:49 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
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How on earth did you get your idler bushings out? ON my 116 I had to use an electric drill, with small bits and continually drill into the rubber around the metal bushing until most of the rubber was gone. I tried hammering it out using a punch, then I even used an air chisel with a punch fitting on it then a chisel fitting. All that was on a lift. It was at my uncle's car lot where I work, so I do all work on a lift. Lucky me, eh?
Thanks
David

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  #17  
Old 09-27-2004, 10:59 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,318
rmmagow I know I have a 22mm socket somewhere but I can't find it. I have an impact gun but the bigest socket I have for it is 17mm, I didn't want to use a regular socket. Won't it break one? I tightened it by hand first with a 1/2 drive then with the breaker bar, that sucker is tight.

Want, I just used the old bolt. I stuck it in the bottom bushing and pulled sideways, I worked it down slowly. I shot oil on them and they came out better. For the top one I used the head of the bolt, to push against the bushing and whacked the bottom with a hammer, this drove the top one out. They didn't fight to much on the way out, if I had a lift it and could have used my impact gun it would be a quick job. I bet I could do one in less then 1/2 with those tools.

The new ones I oiled up and tapped in with a hammer and block of wood.

Maybe I got lucky I didn't have anywhere near the problems you had.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2004, 11:11 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
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A rebuilt steering box is $617.67 from Fastlane. A new box is $1,500 from the dealer!
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  #19  
Old 09-28-2004, 12:28 AM
wolf_walker's Avatar
Zen And The Art Of Diesel
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 2,050
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
A rebuilt steering box is $617.67 from Fastlane. A new box is $1,500 from the dealer!
I know these are Mercedes and all, but man.. Come on..
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  #20  
Old 09-28-2004, 07:16 AM
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Location: Annapolis, MD
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Rebuilt boxes are about $325 at carsteering.com. I haven't ordered one yet, but they've been good with emails and an explanation of what they do to rebuild them.
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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer
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  #21  
Old 09-28-2004, 08:02 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Hatterasguy,
Ok,, let me describe what I think I have read here.... and you correct me if I am wrong....

You know you have more play than you think you should have in the steering system...

This is even after the tie rod ends and stuff you have replaced....

Some very responsible people have suggested you ' adjust' your steering box...

But you don't feel comfortable adjusting it... and thus are planning on doing a complete replacement next summer instead ?

I do not have SDL chassis books.... only 123.... so I will not offer any specifics concerning how to adjust your steering box... but will say this...

The engineers made the steering box so that it could be adjusted periodically... when needed... in a simple fashion... typically this means loosening the lock nut and using an allen wrench to move the center bolt a very small distance ( typically 1/8 th turn or less ) ... and then testing it on the road. You are not trying to get it back to NEW status... you are only trying to get it to safe and within legit margins for movement...

Your box will wear faster in the improperly loose condition....and excess pressure is put on stuff inside it... compared to proper setting...

So I recommend you do the research... and consider adjusting your steering box.... or take it to someone after you have done all the other steering replacements you plan on doing ( so you can tell what if any improvements were due to adjustment ).....
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  #22  
Old 09-28-2004, 12:00 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
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You got most of it leathermang, I tried adjusting the steering box. It didn't do much, I adjusted the screw out it helped a little but not really. I think my box is just worn out. What I am saying is that I have a better box sitting in my basement that I got for free out of my parts car. I am going to adjust the play out of the "new" box and install it. Then next year when I have the money I will purchase a rebuilt box. This way my steering will be 80% better then it was before unitl I can afford to fork over $500 for a new box.
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  #23  
Old 09-28-2004, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
"much, I adjusted the screw out it helped a little but not really. I think my box is just worn out. "

Until you adjust it out enough to take up the slack from normal wear.... you don't know if it is worn out or not...

It is very likely that your steering box has never been adjusted in the life of the car until you tried it...

Why not , a little at a time, try tightening it just to see if it is ok,,,, or you are just assuming it is worn out... ?

And keep notes on how far out you wind up adjusting it... others might benefit from that information...
We are here to SHARE .... aren't WE ?
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2004, 09:39 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
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I'll play with it tommarow a little and report back. Yes I will record my results for the betterment of Mercedes everywhere.
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  #25  
Old 09-28-2004, 10:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: RI
Posts: 1,040
I did use all impact sockets for the idler arm bushing replacement. I've actually got a full set of impact sockets for just about everything. They just work better and I never seem to run into rounding off the bolts problems (I do bust a few though). I don't use the impact wrench so much but if you have to use a breaker bar, you should use impact class sockets I've learned. I don't worry about the impact socket when I have a three foot pipe over the breaker bar. In fact, I had to remove a SEVERELY cross threaded caliper bolt one time, could not reach with power wrench, put an impact socket on the bolt, a two foot breaker bar enhanced another foot with a pipe. I then jacked the car up as high as I could with a block of wood to allow extra height, stood back and dropped that sucker. Ended up doing this three or four times before I could bet the bolt out but it did come out. Hi-End satisfaction !!

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