OIL FILTERS: which one to buy???? - Page 11 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shingleback · #**151** 02-25-2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

I was buying Bosch parts for all of my cars in the '80s, but the Bosch US started sourcing their own parts, so a Bosch filter wouldn't be made and shipped from Germany etc. I'm not sure where the Bosch filters are made, again might be low enough volume to be coming from the OEM.

Champion Labs in southern Illinois makes Bosch, Mobil 1 and a lot of house brand filters. Of course, they build them to individual specs so a lot of times you get what you pay for, and you also have to look at the specs. When I was trying to get info for another car I found out that the Bosch and Mobil 1 filtered to 10 microns, but the M1 had a higher burst pressure. I wanted to know why the M1 was twice the price of the Bosch.
I have concluded that I like the quality of Wix, but they are hard as heck to find in Canada.

babymog · #**152** 02-25-2008, 01:58 PM

I have read that the M1 filter is made by Wix, will have to check again. Also, the Goodwrench premium filter is reputedly made by Wix, if true it might be available in Canada.

DeliveryValve · #**153** 02-25-2008, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

......
Has anyone used this filter before and can verify that the bypass portion is pleated media instead of the Cotton Gin?

As part of this effort to find the best oil filter for our 617s, I am having my local Baldwin dealer get me a P102 tomorrow. Cost is $14.

Looking at the pictures in their catalog it seemed that it does not use waste cotton gin like the in 603 filter.

Stay tuned.

moonlite · #**154** 02-25-2008, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

As part of this effort to find the best oil filter for our 617s, I am having my local Baldwin dealer get me a P102 tomorrow. Cost is $14.

Looking at the pictures in their catalog it seemed that it does not use waste cotton gin like the in 603 filter.

Stay tuned.

I'll be waiting to hear what you find in the Baldwin P102. I think that it is going to be the best filter in todays market. I called Baldwin today and this is what the tech said.

Full-flow portion is 18 micron nominal (50% efficiency)
By-Pass portion is 15 micron absolute (98% efficiency)

That sounds good to me.

pawoSD · #**155** 02-26-2008, 03:54 PM

I just went to Pep Boys today and nabbed a couple more Turkish Fram's...they only had 2.

So I have 7 now, and a Bosch, and a Hengst...which I am going to cut open. Maybe I will do it tonight, nothing else to do.

Heck I may change my oil....there's only 300 miles left on my current change, might as well do it early. I am switching to Rotella Synthetic 5w40 tonight, but am reducing my change interval to 4000 miles.....so the cost is balanced but the oil is changed more often.

I am running a Fram in my car currently and it has plenty fine oil pressure. When I start it in the cold (20F or less) pressure comes up to 3 within 1.5-2 seconds....I don't recall it ever being faster than that with the Bosch or Hengst filters I used to use. My oil pressure is 2 bar when warmed up at idle. Our 300D has a Fram in it too and it is showing 1.6bar warmed up at idle....so I doubt the Fram filter is restrictive. It certainly is cleaner. It idled with the same pressure with the Hengst filter that I took out of it as it does with the Fram.

Has anyone tried contacting fram about these filters to find out the micron ratings on them?

tangofox007 · #**156** 02-26-2008, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Our 300D has a Fram in it too and it is showing 1.6bar warmed up at idle....so I doubt the Fram filter is restrictive.

Considering that the bypass return flow has to pass through that pinhead-sized hole in the oil filter lid pipe, it is difficult to imagine that the bypass secion of the filter has any real affect on oil pressure. I don't think that there would be a noticable difference between no restriction and total blockage of the bypass section.

The flow rate through the bypass section has to be miniscule as compared to the full flow section.

DeliveryValve · #**157** 02-26-2008, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

....
Has anyone tried contacting fram about these filters to find out the micron ratings on them?

From another thread. See Quote below.

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonlite

They are the exact same fitlter... just a different look and box. This is why they have almost the same part #. The wix has an additional prefix digit.

I confirmed this with a WIX tech.

What about the Mahle OX 78D as an oil filter? Diesel Giant recommends these.
I'm still waiting to hear from the manufacture regarding the filtration efficiency.

I also spoke with Fram about the CH2930 and the said it has a 25 micron rating.

pawoSD · #**158** 02-26-2008, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Considering that the bypass return flow has to pass through that pinhead-sized hole in the oil filter lid pipe, it is difficult to imagine that the bypass secion of the filter has any real affect on oil pressure. I don't think that there would be a noticable difference between no restriction and total blockage of the bypass section.

The flow rate through the bypass section has to be miniscule as compared to the full flow section.

Thats what I was thinking too....and I'd rather have it flow through a little slower and better-filtered (with tight cotton string) than faster and unfiltered with cotton field sweepings.

Where does the oil go if it can't ger through the filter assembly quickly? There has to be excess oil than the amount that can pass through the full flow or bypass sections....

#**159** 02-26-2008, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Where does the oil go if it can't ger through the filter assembly quickly? There has to be excess oil than the amount that can pass through the full flow or bypass sections....

Through the bypass valve.

pawoSD · #**160** 02-26-2008, 10:37 PM

Ah I understand now. Very interesting.

I changed my oil tonight, put in a new Fram filter. Its happy now.

Also, I took my leftover Hengst filter with "crud" falling off of the outside of it and ran it on our electric can opener.

Worked great, lid came right off. Splinters....cotton junk.....dirt.....all kinds of junk in there. I'll post some pics tomorrow or something. Never again will I run that nasty of a filter.

moonlite · #**161** 02-26-2008, 11:33 PM

So... the Fram filter that is made in Turkey is good to use?

I'm concerned about someone here losing oil pressure

because they used a Fram.

Lets get a poll going.

Diesel911 · #**162** 02-27-2008, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldnavy

Rusty you missed the other thread where we cut a couple different brands open and foud that the upper by-pass section was filled with cheap loosely packed cotton ginn tailings. These tail;ings are ther leftover scrap that is swept up off the floor with the shells, stanks, bugs, dirt and gravel mixed right in and then stuffed in the top portion that is the by-pass section of the filter. It should be a woven cotton string tightly wraped around the center of the filter.

The problem with just stuffing loose cotton in the filter is the oil will crate tunnels through the cotton and not really do any filtering. The woven cotton filter string would probably have filter about 50 to 75 micron size particle and the paper portion about 20 to 30 micron. With just the stuffed raw cotton in the upper section withe the paper holding it in shpe in the canister, that would mean as soon as the oil backs up at the lower paper filter section it would flow through and out the by pass section without and real filtering, other then what wraps around the upper cotton section holding the cotton inside the filter.

That's why a some of here has decided to stay away from the cheap outsourced products made in India and buy US made Wix, NAPA and such filters using pleated paper filter s in the upper section.

The next time you do an oil change you might want to take a good look at the top of that long stem. All of the oil that goes into the bypass filter passes through one hole that is a little larger than 1/16 of an inch in diameter. If the lower full flow part of your filter become plugged that oil will try to go out that small hole; but of course that little hole will not pass the volume needed through it and I believe the filter housing relief valve would open.

Diesel911 · #**163** 02-27-2008, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonlite

So... the Fram filter that is made in Turkey is good to use?

I'm concerned about someone here losing oil pressure

because they used a Fram.

Lets get a poll going.

Ask PawoSD (who just installed a Fram from Turkey) if his oil pressure went down after he installed the filter.

pawoSD · #**164** 02-27-2008, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonlite

So... the Fram filter that is made in Turkey is good to use?

I'm concerned about someone here losing oil pressure

because they used a Fram.

Lets get a poll going.

Not possible, the oil filter housing has a relief/bypass valve that opens at 3.5 bar if too much resistance is encountered in the housing. So the engine would continue to get full oil flow/pressure, but it would not be filtered.

Also, the Fram filters are the same as all the other filters except that the bypass section has a clean higher quality material in it. The amount of oil that actually passes through this section is tiny and if none went through it at all it'd not even affect anything.

So, no worries using a Fram. We've used 4 so far and all have shown the exact same pressures as the other filters. I truly think the Fram is the best made of all the filters I have seen (and I've used 5 different brands so far)...and is by far the cleanest.

pawoSD · #**165** 02-27-2008, 01:08 AM

Alrighty, I finished my surgery on the Hengst filter I had laying around.

First off, I am simply amazed how much junk they actually manage to compress/fit into that bypass section. "Un-fluffed" it takes up 3/4 of a shoebox as you will see in my pics.

I found a ton of small pieces of wood, plant material....grass....etc, upon close inspection I did find the dried remains of some unlucky insects and pieces of insects that ended up in the mower bag when they mowed the cotton field. (I'm convinced they merely mow down a cotton field and then collect the "clippings", and put them into the filters.) The cotton "smells" clean....but hey, maybe thats just fresh-mowed cotton field smell. I didn't find much actual "dirt" aside from the grass and insects....just a ton of wood fragments and a lot of clumped raw cotton. The worst part on the Hengst is that they essentially use a dryer sheet wrapped around the center post with a piece of tape and a sticker holding it in place. And the outside of the canister has no covering, so materials from the bypass fall out through the holes as you can see in one of my pictures. Overall, scary, and I see no way how that junk does anything to actually filter the oil.

Here's all the pics:

Notice the wood particles escaping through the slits in the canister, they were in several other places too, which means they can make it into the oil filter housing and potentially somewhere else in the engine!

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