I am running filtered used ATF , using a 10 mic filter bag.
Used vege oil using 1 mic filter bag, my buddy as a long vacuum filter bag in it, so some of the dirt get caught in the vac bag, cut down the washing frequency.

Any folks out there using filter used motor oil?
I can access to plenty of them, one garage I knew he said the recycle guy only pays SFA for them, so I can take, drink as much as I want.

I suppose mixing 10% of used motor oil may not be all that bad.
My cars are not going to last forever anyways, only Taxidermy does.

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In the old days, people added pure 30W HD motor oil without additives as a further lubricant to the injection system and to the injection pump, because of its design, prior to lube systems working off the pressurized system used on the modern ones.
The also added a mix of Dexron up to Dex III because it contained many fatty solids which further lubed and would burn clean.

This was also done in case people had cut their diesel with 10% gasoline, as some people did. If you were going to add anything to a diesel tank of the pre cat type, it would be a mix of Dexron (not type F), 30W motor oil and a spoonful of turpentine. Mix well and add.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

This is discussed endlessly on the 2nd gen Dodge Ram forums with the expensive and $1,000 problem prone VP44 injection pump. I recently had to replace my VP then the new one crapped out within 100 mi. I figured that it was because of a bad rebuild then the rebuilder called & said i had gas in my returned under warranty pump. Gas (if it was actually gas) was from the diesel pump.

The above led me to pay more attention to fuel lubricity. One forum where the owner actually does some research & testing recommends 1 oz of 2-stroke oil/gal of diesel. The reseller of my VP recommends "Stanadyne Lubricity" saying that he's talked to the Stanadyne rep and looked at injectors run with & without the Lubricity. At recommended dosage & $20/ 1/2 gal, it is cheaper that 2-stroke.

FWIW, the SD runs quieter on either 2-stroke or Stanadyne Lubricity than fuel only. The Lubricity has to be bought online or from a local diesel performance vendor. The 85SD owners manual recommends some portion kerosene in the winter but that was before ULSD. I'm going to stick with Stanadyne since I need it for the VP.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Motor oil has ash, why would you want abrasives (the result of burning the motor oil is metallic ash) in your engine?

Some two-stroke engines utilize that ash as a protective surface lubricant. What we want is TCW-3 two-stroke watercraft oil at a low ratio to provide lubricity.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Up the veg to 30% and there will be a difference.

It is best to mix it out of the car before putting in the tank,if it has to travel around the fuel system to get mixed it takes longer to notice the effect.

My previous car was a Bmw 525tds turbo inter cooled diesel 1994,anything over 30% veg gave no extra power.The 30% seemed the optimum mix with diesel .

You will notice a bit more zip,not much but the engine will be a bit more eager to rev.

On the Bmw which was all edc controlled fly by wire the veg mix would be noticeable in firmer gear changes on the auto box depending on how much percentage of veg added.

The veg giving more energy see's less throttle pedal for a given speed so the ecu would sometimes see up to 1/2 inch or less pedal position and this coupled with the ecu controlled gear box resulted in firmer shifts.

The Bmw would lock up into 5th gear and cruise along ticking over at 1800rpm around 80mph,approaching an incline it would just drop itself down into 4th gear to hold the speed and then over the top and on the level would lock back into 5th.

The added veg would see it hold 5th longer or not change down at all.

Towing a heavy trailer this was a bonus as more often than not it would only go into 5th on a down hill stretch using only diesel,so the 'less pedal position' fooled the ecu into thinking the engine was not working to hard and it would go into 5th .

Kerosene is commonly used in northern climates to replace #2 (diesel) because at temperatures below -30deg f, it will not gel. Notice I said -30deg f. You should not have to add kero in SC ever. Just for the record, it costs more than #2, and is not as efficient.

Unless you are a meticulous, obsessive/compulsive person you should stick with the fuel that God meant MB to use- undyed diesel from the pump. This forum is filled with instances of people buying old diesels and then subsequently posting that the cars "wont start", "run rough", or are dying along the road. Its a shame to read about. For the price of a new injector pump, the smell of french fries is a large price to pay... it seems like the primary killer might be technique-- ie, how you treat your "free" oil before dumping it in the tank. So before you leave the fuel distribution system behind, make sure you are set up to do this.

I went to a Bosch certified diesel injection pump repair shop years ago and they told me that Stanadyne was the only product they recommended as well. I use just straight diesel though.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

WVO and biodiesel both have LESS ENERGY CONTENT per kg or liter, so it is not really possible to make more power using it. Most any effect is placebo or some minor effect due to some feel that cannot really be there.

Have any dyno runs to show more power on WVO?

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Very bad for the environment and engine. Engine oil has additives specifically for suppressing its combustion.

Kerosene reduces lubricity and #1 diesel is already winterized. Unless you're driving from Texas to Minnesota on one tank of fuel in the middle of winter, #1 diesel doesn't need any additional anti-gel.

Diesel does not need any additives as long as you use #1 in the winter months to prevent gelling. Neither #1 or #2 needs any help in lubricity. ULSD became the only on-road fuel sold since 2006 (no matter the pump label), if there was a problem with it there would have been a sudden mass of pump failures within the first 2 years.
The fact we are nearly 5 years into it with 99% of the worlds diesels using straight diesel from the pump means the entire "lubricity" issue was, from the start, purely a myth to sell useless snake oil off the shelves. Just as it was in the early 90's with LSD.

LSD??? your supposed to melt that on your tongue, not put it in your tank. and never drive on LSD anyway; its kinda scary the way the steering wheel stretches all out of shape when your trying to turn.

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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper

LMAO...I think he's refering to LOW SULFUR DIESEL.

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1981 240D

I've read in the Ford diesel forums about guys running off of WMO just like alot of guys use WVO. Obviously, there are consequences if not done right just like everything else....ie filtering and heating before injection.
Has anyone every tried running a 50/50 mix of diesel and waste oil or any other ratio?? I was just curious because I have access to hundreds and hundreds of gallons of waste oil.

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1981 240D

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Emergency substitute for Diesel fuel?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/17942-emergency-substitute-diesel-fuel.html#post90220

Is diesel formulation changed already?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/152735-diesel-formulation-changed-already.html#post1163429

Used ATF as alternative fuel?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/alternative-fuels/176644-used-atf-alternative-fuel.html#post1392439

What can't we burn in our diesels ???
What can't we burn in our diesels ???

Recommended diesel fuel additives?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/166888-recommended-diesel-fuel-additives.html#post1298228

Yes, you can run used motor oil in your car!!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/63699-yes-you-can-run-used-motor-oil-your-car.html#post392207

Add transmission fluid in the fuel tank???
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/155556-add-transmission-fluid-fuel-tank.html#post1188780

How much used transmission fluid can you burn?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/134436-how-much-used-transmission-fluid-can-you-burn.html#post987396

Biodiesel and WVO - SVO links thread.
Biodiesel and WVO - SVO links thread.

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Waste oil is by far the worst possible thing you could do. Not only, as mentioned before, does engine oil have additives for suppressing combustion but it also has very small metal particles that will work like sandpaper in your injection system.

Yeah it would if you did not filter and process it correctly, but waste veggie oil will gunk up you injection system and make you piston rings stick if it is not processed correctly also.
You must have never seen an old diesel "Run Away" do to excessive blow-by...hmm oil must be combustible in that case.

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1981 240D