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I got my oil sample back, but what does it mean?
This is my first oil sample so I am not sure what everything means, the mechanic at my dads work said the engine was healthy.
Here we go it was done by Titan Laboratories, their in Colorado. Oil was Mobil 1 15w-50 with 2,800 miles on it. Physical Tests Viscosity-cSt 100C - 16.4 SAE Grade-100C - 50 Fuel Soot - % WT - 0.1 (low I guess) Water, Fuel Dilution, Antifreeze - none (sigh good head ) Wear Metal, PPM Chromium - 0 Copper - 10 (a little high maybe?) Iron - 7 Lead - 9 Tin - 0 Aluminum - 0 Silicon (dirt) - 1 Additives and other metals, PPM Antimony - 0 (what is that?) Barium - 0 Cadium - 0 Calcium - 2886 (wow this seems odd? ) Magnesium - 17 Molybdenum - 41 Nickel - 0 Phosphorus - 983 Silver - 0 Sodim - 1 Titanium - 0 Zinc - 986 I will need to get it done again after this next change, this was the first change on synthetic to so some things are probably a little higher then normal. Although I did two changes with Delo 400 15w-40 at 600 and 1,600 before the Mobil 1 went in. I have no other history.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#2
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Ask 240Joe!
Quote:
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#3
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Hmmmm...
I think you need a control, ie send a sample of the same oil that was not used in the engine.
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#4
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If nothing was flagged on the report, you are fine.
Zinc, copper, lead, and antimony (sometimes) are used in the Babbet material in the main bearings. If these show up at elevated levels, you have bearing wear. That oil doesn't. Max soot is 0.4%, you are nowhere near that. Iron and chromium are in the block, valves, and rings -- if these show up at elevated levels you have ring, bore, or valve system wear. I seem to remember high calcium numbers for Mobil 1, but I'm not sure. Zinc is also present as zinc stearate, a high temperature lubricant additive, so you should always see some. Excessive levels indicates bearing wear, though. Without doubt you changed this too soon -- the only thing in there is some soot, and since you could go at least four times as long before exceeding the maximum level, do yourself a favor and leave it in for 6000 miles next time, and repeat the oil test. Changing full synthetic oil at 3000 miles is wasting money. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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How much did that analysis cost, if I may ask?
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#6
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I agree.. Mobil 1 at 2800 miles is a waste. I run my gasser for 5-7k on Mobil 1. I run my diesels for 3-5k on Rotella dino.
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#7
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Did you mean to say 4% for Mobil 1? And, isn't the limit, as specified by M/B, at 2%? This limit would apply to almost every other oil, Mobil 1 and possibly Amsoil, being the exceptions? |
#8
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Seems I remember calcium was a dertergent additive.
I believe 0.1 is 1/10 of 1%. This oil change can be your baseline I guess, but run the next oil change out to 5000 miles to MB recommended intervel. If you can, pull a sample at about 4500 miles and send it in and see how it comes out. You may be able to go further or you may just need to change oil and 5000 be your limit.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#9
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oil analysis notes
fwiw, I use an analysis kit from Schnieder Petroleum that returns similar info, and "the guy" there told me that Mobil 1 could support 2% soot, if I remember correctly. I sent in samples every 2,000 miles until the soot buildup got to about 3/4 of their recommended max, and that turned out to be about 8k on M1 15-50w.
All of the metals and such will build up slowly over the change cycle, too. If you see any particular contaminants accelerate their rate of contamination that can mean problems for you, but if all of them accelerate then you usually have filter issues. Since my M1 tests, I've used Mobil's Delvac 1300 for a few cycles and have been pretty happy with it, from what I can tell. I am NOT one of the oil geniuses on this board, but have learned a good deal from them. The Delvac is a diesel oil that supports 4% soot and seems to have good lubrication properties. But the jury is still out and I may go back to the M1. kma
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74 Porsche 914 2.0 - 92k and counting 85 300 TD - 263k and counting 83 300 TD - 190k and counting 74 Harley Davidson Superglide - 38k and counting 68 Harley Davidson Sportster - currently in kit form |
#10
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The best of the Mobil oils for diesels is the Delvac 1 synthetic 5w-40 from all the testing done over at the VW TDI forum. Somewhat higher soot capabilities then Delvac1, greater temp range (big cold range difference), much higher load bearing range (common to all synthetics vs dinooils) and can be bought under the name of Mobil 1 Truck & SUV oil at Wal-Mart under $5 a qt.
In our high soot creating ALH TDI VW's (turbo diesels)this oil can easly go 15,000 to 20,000 miles between changes, by doing one filter change and top off at the half way point. These cars have problems with high soot content being pumped into intake mixing with oil from CCV then clogging engine intakes. I have done a switch from dino to Delvac 1 (not Delvac 1300) and have done 2 flushes with said oil and when I get to about 4500 miles on the oil I will send in a sample for testing and see how the old girl stands.
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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride. '13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride. Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor. |
#11
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All is OK
Hatterasguy - you are OK as your mechanic said.
Viscosity is good about what a new 50W oil is. There is no coolant in the oil indicated by sodium and potassium which your report does not have. Lube Oil is certain hydrocarbon and additive material to enhance and overcome some defecencies. Zinc and phosphate go together form the additive ZDDP zinc di-thio phosphate, it is a mutilfunction additive for antiwear, anti corrosion and extreem pressure. Calcium is added to the oil to neutralize acids formed from combustion products. The other metals if present would be coming from your engine parts. Conclusion your oil is still good, your gaskets are holding, and your engine is not coming apart.
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2010 ML350 Bluetec 2012 Mustang Convertible |
#12
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The biggest thing is to establish a baseline. Once you start getting lots of samples tested and reports back, you can start seeing a trend that might be bad. I had a water pump failure in one of my Detroit's 3 years ago. Pump just blew up and got coolant in the oil. (thank god for alarms and auto shut-offs) Changed it several times after the pump was repaired. I just sent in my annual sample and that engine FINALLY is showing test results back to normal. It takes forever to truely clean out contaminates. I could tell that the oil was getting better each time, so I was not too worried. But it was reassurring to know that the testing company sent me a fax warning as soon as they tested the oil. They definately flag problems.
My mechanic buddy just laughs at me when I get oil tested. He figures it is better to budget for a major rebuild because if the tests start coming back bad on a 25 year old engine are you going to just rebuild part? He does have a point. But I do like to try to anticipate what lies ahead.
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Alan Hamm '87 300SDL 277K Miles '89 560 SL 68K Miles |
#13
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I was just doing it for fun, and I have no history on this engine either so I would like to do 3 more to have a good baseline. MB specs soot limit at 2% so I don't want to go over that. Maybe I will keep the D1 in their for 5k miles, and re-test.
So everything looks good? Nothing was flagged or seems out of line, I feel better now.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#14
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I am switching to synthetic this weekend. I will send out my last batch of dino for testing just to get a baseline.
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Alan Hamm '87 300SDL 277K Miles '89 560 SL 68K Miles |
#15
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What kind are you using? My lifters really like the D1 maybe because it is a little lighter then the Mobil 1 that I was using.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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