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#1
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Shimmy at 60 mph 97 E300D
I have a shimmy only when I hit 60 mph or more. Rather than do expensive experimentation. What should I check first by others experience? When going slow 25 mph the tires do sound choppy on the road. They don't physically look chopped. The front brake pads are a little thin too and could use replacing. Could it be a warped rotor? I don't feel it rumbling though in the brake pedal. Alignment maybe? Tires were ridden on by an idiot for 1000 miles at 20 lb or less pressure. Any other Ideas? Thanks!.. Indy
car has 185,000 miles |
#2
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Get them balanced. If they have been doing this for a long time, there may be flat spots on the tire and the only cure is new tires, balanced properly.
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#3
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I put new tires on it needed it. The rough shimmy went away. I never drove a merc b4 n the highway. Is the steering like Rally Sport where you can feel the road? Thanks!.. Indy
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#4
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Gadzooks!!!
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Brake parts from FastLane: 1997_E300D_Brake_Disc_Rear http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1CO02NKGP&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1997&product=N1000-54215&application=000296241 1997_E300D_Brake_Disc_Front http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1CO02NKGP&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1997&product=N1000-54976&application=000299866 1997_E300D_Brake_Pad_Set_Front http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1CO02NKGP&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1997&product=N1010-133490&application=000285386 1997_E300D_Brake_Pad_Set_Rear needs VIN = two types. Chassis: -379346 = two pin type. Chassis: A-379347 = one pin type. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CO02NKGP&year=1997&make=MB&model=E-300D-002&category=N&part=Brake+Pad+Set&appChassis=_any
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 03-01-2007 at 05:12 PM. |
#5
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Thanks Hunter
Are you sure that price is for 2 rotors? or is it just showing opposing views? I have replaced front brakes on cars before is it the same for these? or will I need special tools?. Some cars you screw the plunger back in others you use a c-clamp to squeeze the plunger back in place. Which is this?... Thanks!... Indy |
#6
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Hmmm
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Pop the pad pins out, unbolt calipers, remove rotor retainer screw, remove rotor. The front calipers are straight pistons, slow pressure squeeze. My main PC is dead, so I can't look up your rear brakes, my memory can't be trusted at the moment, due to meds. If your car has ABS, clean the wheel speed sensor head if posible before assembly. |
#7
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Thanks for the help The rear brakes are still very thick. Front a little thin though and the rotors are cupped on the edges maybe already turned once I think they should be replaced also.. I found the step by step here on this site at http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads Thanks for your help.... Indy
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#8
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Quote:
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