Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right?
 

What a great thread.
You should read it through.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/96852-brake-flush-every-two-years-ur-kidding-right.html



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I've always done mine every 2 years on everything I own, annualy on my bike.

Brake fluid is cheap, replacing corroded calipers and M/C isn't.

As an alternative, if you don't have the equipment or skills, try replacing the fluid in the reservoir every time you change the oil. Simply suck out the old with a syringe or turkey baster, clean the inside with a lint free towel and replenish with fresh stuff. It's not quite the same as a flush but it'll help.

You don't need any equipment and you don't need any skills.

You need an 8mm wrench for the bleed screws on the calipers, that's it.

If you have a helper, you can get the job done in about 1 hour.

Today, I was replacing calipers and had no helper. So, after I installed the RF caliper, I opened the bleeder and let it run into a jar, while I installed the LF caliper. After about 1 hour, the m/c was down to the low mark. Not the fastest technique, but, I was working on other things in the meantime and figured that the RF wheel can bleed itself during this time.

Tomorrow, I'll speed it up a bit with the easibleed.

Dieselfan,
Not be argumentative, BUT.....
I don't believe replacing the fluid only in the MC wil do anything. Its a closed-end system. the fluid does not circulate; all the lines are dead ends. Any moisture in the fluid will go to the low point and just lay there. I think actual flushing is the only way to remove this moisture. Replacing the metal lines is no fun.

I try to flush brakes every 25K or few years, you'd be suprised how much better the vehicle stops and the pedal feel is vastly increased.

PM is always good. :D

Ditto
 

AMEN, to that. :D

I work on to many restorations, show cars and long storage cars, replacing brake lines is a major PIA on any daily driver and H*** on a show car. :(
Take the time to flush the acid sludge out, it is worth the effort. :)

This is essential preventive maintenance. To put it bluntly, it is stupid to not do it.

Related thread here, includes how to economically build a power bleeder from a garden sprayer.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/103226-power-bleeder-what.html?highlight=bleeder

From the For What It's Worth department:

http://www.csaa.com/global/articledetail/0,1398,1004010302%257C2026,00.html

What caught my eye? Taken from one paragraph,

"Vehicle manufacturers are about evenly divided on whether or not the brake system should be flushed periodically and refilled with fresh fluid." ;)

"All of the manufacturers who call for brake fluid changes are import carmakers, about evenly divided between Asian and European. :)

"None of the domestic Big-Three manufacturers calls for periodic brake fluid changes." :eek:

So, I conclude that each of us can, and should decide for ourselves... :p

Best Regards,
Jim

Assuming that you are being serious, I must disagree.

Domestic manufacturers do not specify a brake fluid change interval because it would make their models appear to require more servicing than their competitors - it's got nothing to do with safety or reliability.

The reason we should not all choose for ourselves is because your poorly maintained car might kill me, so I have an interest in whether or not you choose to flush your brake fluid :D

It's interesting to me that American drivers have bought into the 3,000 mile oil change myth wholesale, yet will avoid safety related servicing such as this. :confused:

Kevin

Brake fluid draws water, water in brake fluid lowers boiling point and promotes corrosion.

Explain why brake fluid shouldn't be changed.

Hello Jim
 

Thanks for the link.

The statements of AAA in regards to brake fluid change are misleading. :(
The domestic OEM's do recommend this service under severe service. :)
The OEM's consider any vehicle beyond 100K is scrap metal, and will not project service life recommendations past this point. :(

Vehicle manufacturers are cognizant of the fact that under normal driving = 23K per year or less, the DOT3 brake fluid will last 100K, but at the cost of junking the system (which they want) beyond OEM service life. :mad:

All OEM's have contamination warnings for brake fluid and call out flushing and replacement procedures. :)

All OEM's want you to be cheap on this maintenance; it helps them sell more cars. :D

:eek: All cars over 100K are severe service, by definition they have exceeded OEM service life and are on borrowed time.

If you want the SAFETY of GOOD brakes, a flush every two years is cheap insurance. :)

You're exactly right. The new fluid in the MC would just push down on the old fluid with no mixing occuring.

Cheers,

Bill

Hi Kevin.

I was being somewhat serious, but failed to include that a significant part of the decision making process should be reading, understanding and following the Owner's Manual, usually found in the dusty shelves of a Public Library.

Whunter makes the excellent point that the OMs define different types of service, and adjust recommended service intervals accordingly.

As you observed that the 'average' owner understands the 3 month/3,000 mile oil change interval (one-size-fits all) without realizing that this is usually for Severe Service, because they have no knowledge that there is such a thing as Severe Service, and it's probably just the opposite of what they think.

Some will rely on their indy or dealer for advice. As such, how many dealers or independent services will recommend a brake fluid change? (Show of hands?)

On a side note, all of my car crashes have been due to judgement failure, not mechanical failure. Of course there was one flat tire on a motorcycle, not due to underinflation or tread depth, that left me pretty busted up laying in the median of a Detroit freeway ...

I am in favor of changing the brake fluid, as well as other maintenance.

Very interesting thread.

Jim

I wonder about this. If there are any air bubbles in the system, won't they just keep floating up as the fluid drains? I can't imagaine that air bubbles would just wash downward in that slow-moving stream of draining fluid.

In bleeding the brakes on my airplane the other day, we back-flushed from the caliper up to the master cylinder. It worked great.

A while back, I used a power bleeder on my 300E (attached to the master cylinder) and still had a soft pedal, IMHO because it's hard to flush the air in a downward direction.