Sixto, did you see the posts by PEH?

He's adamant that the IP is a positive displacement pump and that it will move a specific amount of fluid into the lines, no matter whether the lines are full of air or full of fuel.

I'm having trouble with a proper technical refutation.

Any thoughts?

1984300d Turbo 135k
2001 E320 43k
When Doing The Purge Always Remove Th Fuel Hose To Small Pefilter Input To Pefilter, The Return Hose To The Same Container You Will See The Prefilter $1.50 Fill With Dirt And Injector Clean
Replace Prefilter And Main Fuel Filter Diy

Brian, I don't know enough about IPs to know what needs bleeding and how it's accomplished. I suppose it has to be a positive displacement pump for metering to be effective. My guess is what needs bleeding is the supply to the delivery valves. How the primary pump of a 617 can deliver the fuel flow at WOT/full load and not be able to purge air is beyond me. Why a 603 primary pump needs so much cranking is also a mystery to me. That aside my method hasn't failed me and works with a marginal battery.

I forgot to mention that I also leave the big bolt into the big filter loose while cranking. When that fitting spills fuel, I tighten it and move to the injector lines.

Sixto
87 300SDL

I recently used the same procedure to start the 617 after five months and the hard lines off the IP. Cranked it for 15 seconds with rack fully open. Fuel appeared at the end of the hard lines. Tightened the hard lines and it started instantly.

I'll have to do a test to see how long it takes to start a 617 after the hard lines have been removed without cracking the hard lines. If it starts within 15 seconds, then the two scenarios become identical. I can't determine the exact point where the fuel reaches the injector end of the hard lines, so, I'm counting 15 seconds while holding the key.

Ironically with my 2 SDs I never had to prime after replacing the filters. Turn the key, engine catches, that's that. It's the "self-priming" SDL that requires priming of any sort. Removing the inejctor lines is another matter. I never removed the lines of the SDs.

Sixto
87 300SDL

When I replaced my spin on I held the new one under where it mounts, then pumped the primer to squirt fuel out and into the filter, when it was nearly full I mounted it, then I primed maybe 2-3 pumps, started er' up (started instantly) and it ran fine, never a single hiccup.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Ive done this on my 300SD (when doing some IP adjustments) and it takes probably all of about 15seconds to get the engine firing on all cylinders. Obviously they all come on at diff times (diff length lines right?) but I can't imagine it was much more than 15sec...my old battery wouldn't have lasted that long anyway

Is the 602 the same process of changing the fuel filter? I need to do mine for the first time and dont wanna screw it all up.

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1996 E300 D
1992 300D
1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer"