Loss of power...briefly - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rmmagow · #76 11-02-2004, 01:16 PM

Have you run the engine at the approximate RPM's for 65/70 mph in the driveway to see if it acts up with the car not moving? What would that be, about 2500/3000 rpm for a few mins?
Don't know what it proves unless it applies to some motion related problem like a build up of pressure in the brake system.

whunter · #77 11-02-2004, 01:18 PM

Clean the ALDA pressure feed Banjo bolt and tube.
OM617 turbo - ALDA boost pressure signal Banjo Bolt and fitting

boneheaddoctor · #78 11-02-2004, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Clean the ALDA pressure feed Banjo bolt and tube.
OM617 turbo - ALDA boost pressure signal Banjo Bolt and fitting

Been there done that........................about a month ago. Was clear, so its just cleaner now.

boneheaddoctor · #79 11-02-2004, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmmagow

Have you run the engine at the approximate RPM's for 65/70 mph in the driveway to see if it acts up with the car not moving? What would that be, about 2500/3000 rpm for a few mins?
Don't know what it proves unless it applies to some motion related problem like a build up of pressure in the brake system.

No I havent ran those RPM's stationary for that long.

Brakes.....Can say thats not it, I have popped it into neutral and there was no discernible decelleration short of what would be expected in that situation. It coasts as well as any car when that occurs.

TwitchKitty · #80 11-02-2004, 01:48 PM

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge after the lift pump or after the main filter so that you can read it in the car while driving. Veg oil burners do this to monitor filter clogging and viscosity problems. I haven't researched working with the hard plastic fuel lines yet so I don't mess with them. I saw a 'how to diy' article on it once and I lost it.

boneheaddoctor · #81 11-02-2004, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwitchKitty

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge after the lift pump so that you can read it in the car while driving. Veg oil burners do this to monitor filter clogging and viscosity problems. I haven't researched working with the hard plastic fuel lines yet so I don't mess with them. I saw a 'how to diy' article on it once and I lost it.

I don't want to hack a new line., and the plasitc on the old one I doubt would tolerate what it would take.......But I guess the barb ends off the old line would take to bulk hose and regular clamps as a temporary thing, then a "T" fitting could be used.

Don't have a guage that I could check that with however. Never ran WVO in my car, or anything but DinoDiesel with some additives made for diesels. I wish to do the Biodiesel thing but since I have not had a chemistry class since high school I was hoping to find a local mentor to help with that.

I think fuel feed to the secondary filter at least is not an issue. Refference my "old faithfull Geyser" performance earlier in the thread.

whunter · #82 11-02-2004, 02:16 PM

Trying to think this through.
Sudden power loss that drops you back to 2000 - 2300 RPM.
If the waste gate is fouled, damaged or opening due to over pressure, this could be your issue.

You need to T into the banjo supply line and read intake manifold pressure while driving.

boneheaddoctor · #83 11-02-2004, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Trying to think this through.
Sudden power loss that drops you back to 2000 - 2300 RPM.
If the waste gate is fouled, damaged or opening due to over pressure, this could be your issue.

You need to T into the banjo supply line and read intake manifold pressure while driving.

Worth checking........need to scare up a pressure guage I can use now. Planned on a Voltmeter, Boost guage and Pyrometer but havent ordered them yet. May be reason to order them sooner. Or find one I can borrow local.

ricali · #84 11-02-2004, 06:41 PM

My 95 e300 is sitting in garage with the same problem. It has been bugging me for months. It will run 500 milesthen have the same problem this past week it quit 3 days in a row 1/4 of mile from home. I'm pretty sure its the fuel line where it attachs to the lift pump. I took the pump off and the line is loose, it appears the hole in the lift pump is worn a little oversize. I will have a new pump and lines tommorow. Mine would bubble in the line from the filter to the pump. Do you have bubbles in your line??

boneheaddoctor · #85 11-02-2004, 07:38 PM

Zero bubbles in the lines.......replaced the filter.............went over to the store for milk, waiting on wife went to check to see if hose was coupled solid where it bypassed the overboost thingy. AND BROKE THE DAMNED PLASTIC LINE OFF AT THE ALDA!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Too P'd off to touch it tonight now. Will do more tomorrow.

TwitchKitty · #86 11-02-2004, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

I think fuel feed to the secondary filter at least is not an issue. Refference my "old faithfull Geyser" performance earlier in the thread.

You are working on an intermittant problem, you will get inconsistent results. It would be better to check the pressure after the main filter.

boneheaddoctor · #87 11-02-2004, 10:27 PM

Well intermittant in the manner it isn't occuring constantly at fire up, but consistant in the manner it occurs every time those conditions are met.

FYI all, I cut apart the filter I removed tonight, the one that had been on for 1/2 tank of the black soup. It looks surprising good. It was a purolator.

Put on a Fram......just in interest expressed by Whunter that its not a freak bad lot of filters. Drove all of 1/4 mile before fat fingers broke the plastic line right at the barb on the ALDA fitting. I have to find a pressure guage to check this is I have none. But before I screwed the ALDA line up full throttle acceleration up the street from my house did feel a little off. But never got on highway to verify under the same conditions. Lets see what I can turn up tomorrow. And patch the ALDA line somehow rather than wait for a replacement.

Pete Burton · #88 11-03-2004, 12:17 AM

If you do decide to check the trans overload protection( I know it's a longshot) This is on 116.120 (78-80SD) ..if this switch (which measures boost pressure) sees pressure BELOW 0.3 bar and RPM switch in overload switching unit sees RPM's ABOVE 2000, it switches the changeover valve so the ALDA sees atmosphere, and reduces fuel. But if the PO has bypassed some of this stuff, it's hard to say. Seeing as you have the plastic hose busted anyway, why not attach some rubber vacuum line to a tee and put a gage where you can see it on the highway. And also, don't work on it mad, I've done that, NFG, that's for sure. Have a beer instead. Hey, good idea, gotta go.

boneheaddoctor · #89 11-03-2004, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

If you do decide to check the trans overload protection( I know it's a longshot) This is on 116.120 (78-80SD) ..if this switch (which measures boost pressure) sees pressure BELOW 0.3 bar and RPM switch in overload switching unit sees RPM's ABOVE 2000, it switches the changeover valve so the ALDA sees atmosphere, and reduces fuel. But if the PO has bypassed some of this stuff, it's hard to say. Seeing as you have the plastic hose busted anyway, why not attach some rubber vacuum line to a tee and put a gage where you can see it on the highway. And also, don't work on it mad, I've done that, NFG, that's for sure. Have a beer instead. Hey, good idea, gotta go.

Thats what I plan on doing. There is no changeover valve but does have the overload switch on the firewall, its just not hooked up. Had a piece of rubber line coupling the two plastic line halves. between manifolt and Alda.

I know better than work on a car angry..................

Now if its not raining tonight I might get more done.