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  #1  
Old 10-11-2004, 12:28 PM
R Leo's Avatar
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W123 Corrosion Control and Leak Sealing at Area 51

Took some time over the weekend to address waterleaks in Lilly, SWMBO's 300D. Previously, I'd replaced the windshield gasket, sealed the gasket with 3M recommended automotive windshield sealer and experienced no change in the leaking.

One of the chassis FSMs I have has a long section on resealing body panels after completion of collision repairs. I've discovered that Lilly's PO had been in a couple of smash-ups so I decided to look into the possibility of the panels leaking.

First of all, I discovered that a substantial part of the factory applied panel sealer munge inside the hood hinge pockets was in the process of flaking off and that a fair amount of surface rust had started to form. Additionally, there was a large hole in the very back bottom of the drivers side hinge pocket. This, along with gaps on both the right and left sides next to the firewall and inner fender joint plus, a badly torn wiring grommet on the upper, far right passenger firewall were all potential sources of leaks when driving in the rain.

The first order of business was to execute some corrosion control measures which were done in the form of POR15 applied to all affected surfaces.

After the POR15 dried, I used GE Roofing Sealer (100% silicone) to fill suspicious gaps and holes. I also used silicone sealer to fill in the missing parts of the wiring grommet.

Hopefully, this will cure Lilly's leaks once and for all.

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W123 Corrosion Control and Leak Sealing at Area 51-hingepocket2mu.jpg  
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:36 PM
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Does she have a sunroof? If she does, you might want to look into the drains in the front corners of the sunroof. My TD developed a little rust up there next to the drivers side drain and all the water ran down the A-pillar instead of down the drain tube, rotting it and most of the floor on that side. (Upon further investigation almost the only thing holding the drivers seat in was the undercoating . Looked fine from underneath too!)
-M-
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:47 PM
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R Leo
I would highly recommend using 3M bedding and glazing compound for the seams. Also consider 3M Seam sealer.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSP0L98K41gs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/bgel_GKW0MSMD3Bbg/gvel_WWR6DCKBSPgv/command_AbcPageHandler/theme_us_aad_3_0

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GS5YCJFDF4gs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/bgel_GSGNBQMNGZbl/gvel_6DTWTJQPBBgl/theme_us_aad_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html



The difference between the 2 is only the application method. Bedding and glazing compound comes in a tube for caulkgun application. The Seam sealer comes in a large can for brush applications.
I always used the tube and then smeared it with my fingers in gloves.
The material is what we used on the 65 Mustang. It never dries, so it remains flexable and moves with body movements while sticking to the sheetmetal. It will adhere to surfaces and "never" unstick itself without using a petroleum product. We removed quite a bit of this from my sons car during the restoratioin. We remove original sealer from 1965 and it was still plyable.
I found a small, pencil size hole in my daughters 240D under the battery tray. Por15'ed it and then applied the bedding and glazing compound. Water wil never get in there now. YOu can get the tubes of it from any Paint Jobber, they may have to order it. Do not let them sell you the tube sealer that dries. Make sure it is part number 8509.
Consider it.

Dave
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Last edited by dmorrison; 10-11-2004 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:48 PM
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Stella!
 
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Thanks all for the advice!
R

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