Yes, that's about 21 or 22mm. The belt will grab enough to turn the engine over. Obviously the correct way would be to turn it over using the crankshaft pully, but in this case I don't think it's going to matter.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Cool deal, I'll check this out as soon as I can. I have to work until ~11pm the rest of the week so there will not be time to look at it. It'd look like I'd be stealing the car if I was playing with it at midnight.

So lets say the timing chain is indeed snapped, would the pistons and/or valve train suffered damage as a result?

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

[QUOTE=dieselbeagel]Timing chain ? Has the timing chain snaped ?

QUOTE]


Dang.......I wanted to say that

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Crank is 27 mm. PS bolt is probably 19, but I'm not sure.

Normally when the chain breaks, it will either wad up and lock the crank or let the valves get out of time and break the camshaft or cam towers.

Since the valves are vertical on the 61x engines, this is often the only result, although you can get bent valves and rods.

I have an engine with a broken chain in the garage at the momen, will be checking it out over the next couple weeks.

My brother broke the crank in his 300d from oil starvation -- we think a big glob of orange silicone sealant on the oil filter housing gasket blew down the main oil passage to the thrust bearing and sealed it off. Natuarlly, the bearing starved, overheated, scratched the crank, and eventually stuck to it, spinning in the block. That ruined the block anyway, but cracks starting in the now square corners of the dry crankpin for #2 cylinder (also dry) and classic radius stress cracks propagated across the crank. It finally failed on the highway at about 65 mpg, smashing a hole is both sides of the upper pan. Piston was beaten to bits by the transmission end of the crank, both sides of the block were cracked, and the cam towers (except the front one) either split across the bearing or broke off at the base.

The cam was fine, still in the car. The exhaust valves were shot from wear, but none of them were bent. Never checked the rods as we bought a short block and used those.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Are step by step pictures of the ugly damage possible?

The 300D crank went about four or five years ago, new short block was rebuilt, then car was mostly restored and is in daily use.

The crankpin is pretty impressive.

No pics of that, but I'll take some if I can find it.

I'll take some of the 220D engine as I take it apart, but I don't expect to see much other than broken cam towers.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!