On the 79 TD. Fairly easy, had to remove steering wheel and multi-function switch, to remove the plastic cover on steering column. This allowed access to steering lock pin, from below, but not at a straight on angle. I used a drill bit for harden steel in an air grinder, went through it like butter. Also elongated the pin opening in the steel sleeve (since I was at an odd angle). Then I got lucky, all the vibration freed up the tumbler, and the key turned. Had a hard time finding a wire that would release the detent holding the tumbler in place, found that a heavy sewing needle works great.

After removing the lock assy, found that it was the key tumbler that was the culprit (jamming). Just for insurance, I cut the locking lug off, so that the steering wheel cannot be locked with the key off. Took a replacement tumbler from my parts car, which can now be started with needle nose pliers. Only down side is that I now have two sets of keys, one for ignition, and the original for the doors.

I think for insurance I'll replace the key tumbler on my 84, and save a future hassel.

As with most moving parts, we often are guilty of neglecting proper maintenance of the locks. Regular and proper lubrication (repeated insertion/removal of the key with graphite) will keep the internal components from sticking. Also, when the keys get worn they should no longer be used. On the ignition switches, extra keys and weighted should not be hanging and swinging . . . I'm as guilty as the rest on the latter since I keep mine on a fancy MB key fob. The rest I attend to regularly.

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I've never lubed an ignition switch. Nothing last forever, I guess after 25 years and untold milage, this one had enough. Also good point on the keys, these get so worn, I wonder if a copy would work, should I guess.

Forgot to provide credit to the source of the info . . . as a local locksmith worked away in my yard on a neglected and broken door lock, he explained what should and shouldn't be done. Afterwards, he handed me the bill. He did leave me a can of the graphite spray he used and told me never to use WD4? or similar sprays. Guess it follows a similar rule to that of the MB sunroof slide paste . . .

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I am leery about using a key fob with the tristar on it. Suppose your key fell out of your pocket in a store and some thief found it. If he knew anything about MB keys, he could probably find and steal your car in a minute or two. Right there in your car, he just might find your address, and now he has the house key, too.

So, the MB logo might be elegant but not the best thing to pit on your keyring in the Big City.

On the other hand, suppose you had a Hyundai logo on your MB key.

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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)

Nice living in an area where you can still leave keys in the car w/o fear of the car coming up missing. Of course that would be the spare set . . .

__________________
Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

also particularly with the high security mercedes keys, make sure they are made of steel. some locksmiths can copy the mercedes high security key, but they are usually made of brass, this seems to cause the locks to jam from the brass shavings that the keys loose over time, if you have a brass key, look outside the ignition switch, you may see brass there. the only place i know of for the steel keys is mercedes, providing your locks are original they can make a new key, or of you order any new tumbler or other lock it usually arrives with a new key. all they need is your complete vin number and proof that you are the vehicle owner.
Ray
mercedessd@cox.net

In general WD-40 shouldn't be used to lubricate anything for the long term. I know it claims to be a good lubricant, but it doesn't last. Then what you have is clean unlubricated metal, that is just ripe for corrosion. For locks graphite is the best since it is slipery and doesn't attract and hold dirt like greases.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

New laser cut keys and lock cylinders are available from MB or independent mechanics, last one I bought was about $18 for the key and $50 for the tumbler (or $60, it's been a while). For later cars (ones that MB USA has the keys for) and new tumbler comes with a new key.

For the older cars where the tumbler has to come from Germany, you need to order the key extra.

Supply the chassis number and have the title and registration with you when you order.

The steel keys do eventually get worn -- the original key for the 220 D will no longer operate the keyswitch, I have to use a new one. I have a new lock cylinder, will replace it when I get it running.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!