I have new gaskets for ront and back glass, what I don't have is the sealant the local to me dealer the much fabled HBL Mercedes doesn't seem to know anything about.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Job # 67-200 R&R rear window/seal

Calls for "MB glass sealing compound". No part # or description is given other than that name. I couldn't find it in the EPC either, and I sure never heard of it.

The picture in the Service Manual CD looks exactly like black silicone with a caulking gun (NOT saying that's what is is!).

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

I did get a referral from the local Mb shop. The guy at Diamond glass did admit he has not done one for a whlie.

The grease trick sounds like it would work but I know grease will make rubber dry rot/become soft. The compund used to make the gasket may be a different material.

Went to have my OEM put in today and the manager of that shop worked for MB. He does know his stuff it seems. He was certainly impressed by the condition of my car and said rust around the windshield is usually caused by silicone being used when the glass was replaced. He also said this is not the case with my car as it has no rust anywhere. OK, there is one little spot I found but nowhere near the windshield. He also said replacement is not necessary and told me to go back to Diamond so I scheduled an appt. for tomorrow. I really don't wanna go back there but at this point I don't care who fixes it so long as it does not leak.

The putty stuff one of you mentioned [the knid that doesn't harden] comes in a roll and is about 1/4 inch in diameter. Don't know where to get it but the guy at the glass shop I went to today gave me some to put around a plug in my firewall where I used silicone.

Sorry such a long posts. I just want all the details so you guys can get the complete picture.

Once again, many thanks...

Cheers,

Bill

I know what you're talking about-It's not silicone and is like a rubber based stuff. Kinda like tar but not as sticky/runny. I had that applied three times in various places after the intial installation. Maybe Diamond will take it back out tomorrow and apply the stuff all the way around this time but I'd be willing to bet they're gonna just squirt some more in from the outside Like I said, so long as it doesn't leak.

Thank you ....

Cheers,

Bill

When I had mine replaced the other day, the glass shop told me they always replace the seal; even if it looks good, there's no telling if it has gotten stiff or out of shape in a not-so-obvious way that will keep it from fitting and sealing properly with a new pane of glass.

This shop charged me $208 for the glass, $28 for the labor, and $82 for the seal. It's been pouring like crazy for the past couple of days and no leaks yet .

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'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel)
'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)

The material that came out of my rear window seal was just like plumber's putty. It has the same consistency and even repels water in like fashion.

Labor for my install was $65 for each and seals were $135 for both. I was told to expect to spend $250 for the whole job and I am certainly happy with the price. Now if I can just get the rust repair done in a timely manner to complete the job.

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Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!

Don't you need to do the rust repair and priming and painting of the body before the new seal and glass are put back in? How do you prevent the rusted metal from continuing on its slow path to destruction if you install the glass over the top of it?

What does it cost for a W126 windshield? Mine is shot and I will need a new one soon. I see a few numbers floating around but I am not sure if they are for a W123, W126, or W124.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

How long did it take them to do it? Man, $28 sounds awful reasonable.

Cheers,

Bill

I left it at their place in the morning and picked it up four or five hours later, so I didn't watch to see how long it took them.

__________________
'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel)
'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)

Hell, my glass is fine, I have a new seal and for that price it would almost be worth the drive if they did it right.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

As usual, you make a good point. What I should have said was that I must complete the rust treatment and repair (fiberglas) in order to have the glass reinstalled in a timely manner.

I have removed the most deteriorated material, treating the rest with Rust Mort, then building up the gaps/holes with 'glas. I plan to prime it with a zinc based primer. Very little of this repair will show beyond the gaskets and trim. Paint work will be minimal.

I have searched and read many posts on rust repair, its many treatments and issues related to them. I chose a path and am making progress.

I will post some pictures of the differences between the problems in the front and rear window areas. The fact that the rear window was original and windshield was not presents differing challenges during the prep process.

__________________
Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!

I have had 3 MB windows replaced. 2 fronts and a rear. I was fortunate to work right near "windshield row" on Mission Road in Los Angeles where there are perhaps 10 windshield replacement places. A new factory seal is about $75 (approx.), about 10% to 20% more than an aftermarket seal. The aftermarket seal I used in the past was a CRP (Continental Rubber Products) and it worked fine for the front seal. When I had the windshields replaced over the last 10 years, the first one was $125 including the window and the second one was $150 including the window. I furnished the seal. I dropped the car off at the facility. I think the replacement windshields were PPG brand.

The rear window seal was replaced this past March for $65 labor, I supplied the FACTORY seal which I purchased from my 20% off SO CA MB Dealer. There was a slight amount of rust under the old seal and the installer sanded prepped and painted the rust BEFORE installing the new seal. Have a tube of the 3M Super Weather Strip adhesive handy, the headliner needs to be slightly glued before the seal and window is replaced.

$208 for the window is too much $, and $28 to install is too cheap.

__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

I guess it evens out .

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'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel)
'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)

This will be very valuable. Many members suffer with leaks thru the glass at various times. When that glass is finally removed, you can certainly presume what will be under there.