I had an aftermarket windshield installed by Diamond and have had nothing but leaks ever since. Tomorrow I'm going to another installer to have an OEM windshield installed. $320 for the OEM plus $175 for the aftermarket thats coming out

Has anyone else used an aftermarket windshield resulting in leaks? I ask this to find out if it is in fact the glass itself or the way it was installed.

Thanks!!

Cheers,

Bill

Sounds like the seals used and the sealants or lack thereof. Not the glass thats the root of the problem.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I have found that the installer does not normally replace the rubber seal when they do a windshield because of the additional cost. The seal is relatively expensive when compared to their cost for the glass. So, they reuse the old seal and deal with any leaks, after the fact, with a caulking gun.

I would think you would want to provide them with a new seal when you bring the vehicle to them to ensure that you achieve the desired results.

My old 123 when through this same issue and it never got completely resolved. It could still drip a bit in a very heavy rainstorm.

Well guys, I know you won't believe me but the rubber seal on my car is 100% mint. I know, I know-can't be on a 19 year old car but it looks like new as does all the rubber. I took a new rubber with me-it only cost like $60-and the glass place refused to put it on saying mine is fine. And on that point I think they're telling me right. I just happened to have a new one I never put on a car that I sold.

Two reasons I say it's the glass. You can see the shadow in the corners where the rubber sat with the stock glass and to me that means the curve is not 100%. Secondly, you know the aluminum strip that presses into the rubber? Drivers side, bottom corner will not go into the groove. It's sticking up 1/2 inch.

This is a real nice car and I want no moisture in it whatsoever. The floor pans look brand new, the original mats came with it and they look new as well. It needs paint to really make it perfect and when I get it painted I'll post some pics so you can see for yourself what a superb example this car is. Believe me, I looked long and hard to find this one and drove 5 hours one way to look at it/buy it.

Thanks for the input guys...

Cheers,

Bill

You should find a shop familiar with installing these windsheilds. The PO of my car had someone hit the aluminium in with a mallet or something because it's all dented.

I just checked today since the rain just started here in So. CA. $144 for the seal and $45 for each of the 3 pieces of aluminum trim, but that's for a CD.

My rear seal looks perfect also, but it's leaking. The cheapo aftermarket front seal is getting hard and leaking badly. I'll never buy aftermarket anything again. ALWAYS falls apart.

New seals for a 300D are about $100, I think.

Craig

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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.

I have found a shop that's familiar. Thats the first thing I asked before making the appointment.

You're right-aftermarket stuff not worth a d##!. The glass cost me $175 the first time[with 3 trips back to try and stop the leak] and now $320 for the right glass. I have learned my lessonthe hard way and no aftermarket junk for me...

Thanks for the input. It's nice to know someone shares the same misery!!

Cheers,

Bill

Does the new installer purchase the glass directly from a M/B dealer? Or does he purchase it from a distributor that sells the same "OEM" glass to the dealer?

What's the deal on OEM when a third party glass man does the work?

I'm having the seals replaced in both front and rear (300D) because of severe leakage/rust problems. My installer is very knowledgeable and told me a trick he uses to help prevent seepage is bearing grease around the seal just before the install. Repels water forever and will not dry out.

__________________
Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!

Ask your local MB dealer who they send their cars to for install. I always try to get a referral. MB may have something they put between the seal and the body, you might want to call and ask (I need to know also). I know BMW does for my old 2002tii. Glass shops would never know this. The guy at my local glass shop drives a '85 Euro 500SL, so he's familiar with the aluminum trim.

Did you know Hirschmann makes a special wipe to clean the antenna? I didn't.

Craig

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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.

I agree to check for the recommened product to use here. Bearing grease may attack the rubber over time, don't know. I would be more inclined to use silicone grease if I were winging it.

The installer I'm using is recommended by many reputable body shops some of which consistently repair european marks including MB. The installer described the factory material from MB as a butyl rubber in between. My rear window still had it since it had never been removed. It was hardened in some places but mostly because it mixed with rust!
My windshield had been replaced and they used an inferior rubber sealant that hardened, allowed water through and had none of the repellant that grease does.

As for the grease attacking the rubber, my installer is probably the busiest one in middle GA (been in business since 1969) and this is an old trick his mentor taught him many years ago. If it ate the rubbber he would be in the repeat business for negative reasons and that usually doesn't build your reputation as much as tears it down.

Whatever works for you in your location. This is FYI as are most postings.

__________________
Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!

I agree with the others as to a recommendation. I went across the street from my office and got a referral from the Porsche/Audi body shop for a windshield installer. I bought a factory seal (about $75?), had them take out the rear window, put on the new seal and install the old window. Labor was $65 and they came to my office to do it. I watched and they did a great job. The trim comes out with the window and is then removed.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

$65. to R&R the rear window!! They come to you!! I'm moving to California.

Need both my front and back glass done. Need to ask Silver Star Motors who they recomend.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I havn't pulled a rear window yet, but my dad pulled the one from my 420SEL parts car he said it was a very simple job. He also said MB seemed to use something like plumbers putty around the gasket. It seemed like a putty that just didn't dry, maybe to help the gasket seal? I will ask the dealer about it when I get the gasket.

btw It cost about $80 from the dealer for a W126.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200