You already have it. It uses a doppler sensor to detect the flow pulse.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


=========================

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

My 220d timing chain skipped a tooth on the cam sprocket might have been 2 teeth I retimed the cam by moving the chain on the gear it is now right 0 degrees of chain stretch but the car will hardly start wont idle has no power under 3 K RPM I am going under the assumption that the IP needs to be timed now maybe even removed and put back on so the alignment marks are correct Is this logical or am I chasing my tail.
Dave S

Also, how do you get the fuel to come out the tube for the drip method? Do you pump the primer to get fuel flow out the tube? It doesn't seem like you guys do this with the car running. Then if the flow isn't what it should be at (24BTDC?), then you adjust the IP and pump some more?
Thanks
David

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

_____________________________________________

mattdave, you probably need to retime your IP, likely pull out enough to decouple the splined drive and reinstall. A good engine with bad IP timing will behave just as you describe. Don't ask how I know this.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Looks like I am timing my ip first I will by some 13mm wrenchs it sure looks like a royal PITA to do wish I had small hands. But then again there will be joy if it works. Now to figure out my instructions like why do I have too pull injector line #2 as well as 1

I'm personally a fan of the bubble method. I personally think its easier than the drip method and gives better results for me. Below is a write up that I copied from Marshall Booth over on the Mbz.org mailing list (he's a member here too, though not so active here).
-----------
On the subject of diesel timing. If you are replacing the pump or rebuilding the engine. The simplest and most accurate way of setting the pump is: Disconnect the fuel line going into the pump from the filter. Take the spring and plunger out of #1 delivery valve, put the delivery valve back in and snug it down, hold the the pump linkage in the full open position. If you have the drip tube install it on the delivery valve, if not use the injector line in such a way that it is pointing away from the engine. It you don't mind the taste of diesel you can blow through the fuel line or use low air pressure. Put the open end of the injector line in a glass of water and watch the bubbles. Turn the engine slowly until the bubbles stop and check the timing mark. After tightening the pump recheck. This method is really more precise than it needs to be and although it may sound complicated it is very easy .

(Edit for even worse than usual grammar)

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

I wish somebody provided pictures as the "bubble method" seems interesting.

__________________
Audi TT