She will if she runs down a long enough hill.

A 240D with a 2.88 probably should stay in 3rd gear, as 4th is way too tall for the horsepower the 240D makes. Therefore a 2.88 is not quite ideal for this low output engine.

Yup, you have discovered what is so cool about a N/A diesel, they love to run at 75% to 90% power. No exhuast gas temp to worry about, like a turbo engine. They will run at that speed longer then a gasser would run at 50% throttle.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

What's wrong with running a properly tuned turbodiesel 100% WOT? You shouldn't have to worry about EGT's if it hasn't been "played around" with.

Believe me if you were to put an EGT gage on your turbo diesel and hit the mountians real hard you can get it in the danger zone real easy under full power, same when pulling a trailer. There have been several VW TDI owners find out the hard way running near max or max boost for too long is not healthy for a turbodiesel.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

The same arguement can be made for an n/a engine. You should see what some of the 6.9l IDI people on my "other" site have reported after putting EGT gauges on their n/a trucks. This is with perfectly stock fuel setings, to boot!

IMHO exhaust gas temperature gauges should be standard equipment on all diesel-powered vehicles.

Hi Tim,

Do you have info regarding EGT installation? Some engineering might be involved to achieve creditable results, why not educate us?

Thanks,

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Shane83SD

Tim,
Howzabout some EGT gauge installation tips too? This winter, I'm going to yank the intake and exhaust off of Marlene for some long overdue intake tract cleaning and turbo drain seal replacement. Since the downpipe will be out, it seems like a perfect time for welding a bushing in for a pyrometer.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

My 16 yr old disses the 240D (83 w manual) as it can't get out of its own way driving around the mountains here in central PA. I told him get back to his 5 speed 98 Jetta TDI, as it takes a master to match man and machine to get the 68 BHP the 240d offers the driver to DRIVE a car, not just sit behind the wheel and be driven. Long live the 240D!!!

max speed is 77 mph. That is its' sweet spot!!

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71 220D 169K wrecked
83 240D 118K sweet 4 speed
91 350SDL (one of the 60% good engines) 156K
84 300d (loaner to my sister) 189K
79 300SD (partswagen)
86 420SEL partswagen
70 220d (partswagen)
68 280s GASSER!!! under construction now
85 300sd 310K miles winter beater car retired
93 300d 2.5 turbo 168K wife's car
83 280SL euro 5 speed 155K
69 250S newest project 54K

There have been some good discussions about installing EGT's... have yall used the search feature ?

No, I was hoping you would do it for me and post the results here.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Shane and Randy,

The exhaust gas temperature gauge (or "pyrometer") consists of the gauge itself, a pre-set length of lead wire (it's actually two wires bundled together), and a thermocouple, which is mounted in the exhaust pipe (more on this below). As the thermocouple's heated up, it creates a slight current that the gauge reads. Because the amount of current is so small (measured in milivolts), the lead wires should NOT be lengthened or cut short, as this can affect the gauge reading.

Ideally, you want to mount the thermocouple between the exhaust manifold and the turbo (or, on an n/a engine, as close to the manifold outlet as you can). Some people have said that they've successfully mounted the thermocouple in the manifold itself, but I've also heard that unless you're REALLY careful, you can crack the manifold by attempting this. On my truck (freshly-installed turbo), the thermocouple is mounted in the turbo exhaust casting on the "up pipe" side, in a location that ATS designed into the casting. Had that not been there, i would have put it closer to one of the manifolds, but gotta play with the cards I was dealt, eh?

I'm not sure it's feasible to put it between the manifold and turbo on an OM617, though, with how the exhaust feeds the turbo...but I haven't looked closely either (haven't had the $$ to put a pyro in my car yet). If the thermocouple is mounted after the turbo, you'll need to take a few hundred degrees off of the maximum safe temperature, and be aware that the gauge will be somewhat slower to respond than it will with the thermocouple mounted before the turbo. Otherwise, it's not a serious issue...really, it's a matter of personal preference more than anything else.

For gauges, my personal preference is Isspro. They sell gauge kits with two methods of mounting the thermocouple. One involves welding an adaptor to the exhaust pipe for the thermocouple to thread into, and you thread the thermocouple until it contacts the far side, loosen it slightly (so it's barely not comtacting the far side of the pipe), and lock it down. The other method (which is easier to install, but adds $15 to the price and may have leakage issues) has you drill a hole in the pipe and use a hose clamp to hold the thermocouple in place. Take a look here for a picture of that setup.

As a general rule, if the thermocouple is mounted "before" the turbo (or on an n/a engine), you don't want to be over 1000° for extended running, and never exceed 1250° or pistons will start melting. For an "after" turbo mount, I would want it to stay below 700° or so for extended periods of time, and don't ever exceed 1000°. With my pre-turbo EGT gauge, I don't let it exceed 1100°, and that gives me a slight cushion in case something happens or in case the gauge is slightly inaccurate. This said, though, the lower the EGT's are, the less the engine's working...so you can tell if you're lugging the engine; if you downshift and the EGT's go down, the engine didn't want to be in the higher gear.

Hope this helps...

As far as speed goes, I do have a radar detector mounted on the dash.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

(back on topic)

This thread is about us 67hp 4cylinder biotches, all of ya'll with turbo 5's can just go adjust your alda or something =)

How fast my 240D goes depends on my mood, If I'm late for work, It goes from 80 to 85 (no faster than 85 though, I got the stick). These speeds are safe and legal on my route to work.
If I'm just chilling then Its 65 or 70. Yeah, neither of these help fuel economy...

(actually, I think I'm setting a record low at 25mpg when cruising at 80mph the whole day...rebuilt and matched injectors are on order...)

...But That car handles and drives so well at any speed, I just flog it and it keeps running (new flexdisks are also on order )

Note: I only do these speeds where it is legal and safe- too much weight on a W123 or cost in insurance to take chances.
-John

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2009 Kia Sedona
2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L
12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse
(insert Mercedes here)

Husband, Father, sometimes friend =)

So clue me in as to where you got your injector's from, I'm about due a injector job.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

This is dead-on!

I just bought a 240D today, and any previous considerations I had of not having a radar detector went away during my drive home.

"Slow acceleration" does not mean it's a "slow car". Just like "low horsepower" does not necessarily mean "low performance".

These diesels have taught me a lot...

- Patrick