premium diesel - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bill murrow · #31 11-23-2004, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldnavy

Below are some links to biofuel info and dino fuel info.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Link 4

Link 5 from Bosch Pdf form.

Link 5 is a real eye openner, and can be almost scarry for owners of new model high pressure diesel fuel systems.

Also very few if any (unless there have been resent changes I'm unaware of) states require any cetane rating on the pump or even cleanness of the fuel. Those that may, most likely seldom if ever preform pump site inspections due to like of manpower, money and desire.

Thanks for the links.

Yes, some states do require cetane ratings to be posted and, as one member already mentioned, Maryland is one. We live in Pa., right on the Md. border, and Pa., to my knowledge, does NOT require cetane to be posted plus it's $2.29 in most spots and in Md. [Bel Air to be exact], I bought it for $2.11 with a rating of a mere 40.

Seems like bio is way more known in the Midwest as I have never seen any here in the East. Drove from Pa. to Fla. recently and didn't see any at all.

Cheers,

Bill

TomJ · #32 11-23-2004, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill murrow

Thanks for the links.

Yes, some states do require cetane ratings to be posted and, as one member already mentioned, Maryland is one. We live in Pa., right on the Md. border, and Pa., to my knowledge, does NOT require cetane to be posted plus it's $2.29 in most spots and in Md. [Bel Air to be exact], I bought it for $2.11 with a rating of a mere 40.

Seems like bio is way more known in the Midwest as I have never seen any here in the East. Drove from Pa. to Fla. recently and didn't see any at all.

Cheers,

Bill

It's there, you just have to look. It's big in the "underground fuel movement" in PA and the northern states. Problem is, there's SO much regulation on EVERYTHING out there, it's probably illegal to advertise.

Go to the biodiesel forums and find someone around you who makes it and "barters" it to others. Get a 5gal tote of it to mix in your regular diesel like an additive from someone local who makes it.

Here's a PA biodiesel board:

http://forums.biodieselnow.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=6

MD, VA & DC:

http://forums.biodieselnow.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=7

oldnavy · #33 11-23-2004, 04:50 PM

There were five sellers listed on the Nation Biodiesel Map in MD, did they not check out?

bill murrow · #34 11-23-2004, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldnavy

There were five sellers listed on the Nation Biodiesel Map in MD, did they not check out?

Wow, didn't know they existed. Problem is they are so far away from me.

I am more interested in making my own anyway and after I read all the links you posted I'm gonna try. Just need a little more education so I don't hurt my car.

Walt, thanks so much for all those links. You have saved me loads of precious time and is truly appreciated. I can only hope it would be possible for me to return the favor in some way.

Off to read some more!

Cheers,

Bill

TomJ · #35 11-23-2004, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill murrow

Wow, didn't know they existed. Problem is they are so far away from me.

I am more interested in making my own anyway and after I read all the links you posted I'm gonna try. Just need a little more education so I don't hurt my car.

Walt, thanks so much for all those links. You have saved me loads of precious time and is truly appreciated. I can only hope it would be possible for me to return the favor in some way.

Off to read some more!

Cheers,

Bill

Not a lot you're going to do to hurt your car. I've worked on many vehicles (as the mechanic for Boulder Biodiesel and the surrounding BD community) that had coked injectors from running unwashed BD (likely other unseen problems from it too), but doing a proper reaction with a good bubble wash and settling will achieve excellent results and fuel.

Methanol fumes are the principle nasty, so a sealed processor (appleseed vented to the outside should be adequate) is mandatory in my book.

pmari · #36 11-23-2004, 07:57 PM

I got tired of paying big bucks for "primeum Diesel" for the TDI. Now I add my own brew to the 42 cetane from the HESS station. 2oz PS Dieselkleen (white), 2oz PS cetane boost, 1oz of Meaner Kleaner and some times Stanadyne One Shot to a tankful.

The SD is now running on 90% WVO (very nice soybean from a sushi resturant) 10% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline),4oz of cetane boost and 4oz of PSDieselKleen (White)
When it gets cold I'll run80/20 with the additives.

The motor really purrs on the Blend

bill murrow · #37 11-23-2004, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomJ

Not a lot you're going to do to hurt your car. I've worked on many vehicles (as the mechanic for Boulder Biodiesel and the surrounding BD community) that had coked injectors from running unwashed BD (likely other unseen problems from it too), but doing a proper reaction with a good bubble wash and settling will achieve excellent results and fuel.

Methanol fumes are the principle nasty, so a sealed processor (appleseed vented to the outside should be adequate) is mandatory in my book.

yeah, I've been reading the links old navy posted and time and time again it is stated "you'll have to do some modifications to your diesel engine unless you own the 5 cylinder Mercedes engine. Then, no modifications are needed". Looks like I'll be fine with that.

There is a new Japanese restaurant that opened up nearby and it was mentioned several times that japanese places have good soybean oil.

With 2100 acres of soybeans behind my farm, I just don't understand why we're not producing fuel from them. Well, maybe I do. Lots of money to be lost and I'm sure the government and the oil companies like to keep us hooked up to the OPEC barrels for financial gain.

Bio can also heat my house as we burn oil in our boiler. I'm tired of doing firewood every year, hauling it in, hauling ashes out, feeding it in the middle of the night. Hopefully, with a little help from my friends, I'll be using bio next year and just turning the thermostat

I'm really up to this challenge of making bio, I've got lots of room to build a "plant" here, and with a little [or a lot] more reading/asking questions, I truly believe I can do it. I do realize methanol is bad stuff, but hell, I'm a furniture refinisher and it can't be any worse than that. Just a matter of proper handling and using a pump to siphon, although I have tasted gas in years past

Thanks all...and Happy Thanksgiving to each of you.

Cheers,

Bill

pmari · #38 11-23-2004, 08:41 PM

"unless you own the 5 cylinder Mercedes engine. Then, no modifications are needed". Looks like I'll be fine with that.
Bio can also heat my house as we burn oil in our boiler."

You can run a blend in MB right now. No need for bio-D

As for the house, the guys over on altfuelfurnace are getting close to modifing a Becket to burn WVO.

boneheaddoctor · #39 11-23-2004, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldnavy

There were five sellers listed on the Nation Biodiesel Map in MD, did they not check out?

Those guys are at a minimum 1 hour drive for me (Baltimore) to over 2 (Berlin) and thats one way.

I really need to find the stuff to make my own.

TomJ · #40 11-23-2004, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmari

I got tired of paying big bucks for "primeum Diesel" for the TDI. Now I add my own brew to the 42 cetane from the HESS station. 2oz PS Dieselkleen (white), 2oz PS cetane boost, 1oz of Meaner Kleaner and some times Stanadyne One Shot to a tankful.

The SD is now running on 90% WVO (very nice soybean from a sushi resturant) 10% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline),4oz of cetane boost and 4oz of PSDieselKleen (White)
When it gets cold I'll run80/20 with the additives.

The motor really purrs on the Blend

I guess that's REALLY taking your fuel seriously!

You could probably save a few $'s and cut out the cetane boost in the 90WVO since the WVO is WAYYY higher than any cetane boost on the market!. Might just try running kero or D1 instead to get a little bit of winterizing.

pmari · #41 11-23-2004, 11:23 PM

Quote:

You could probably save a few $'s and cut out the cetane boost in the 90WVO since the WVO is WAYYY higher than any cetane boost on the market!. Might just try running kero or D1 instead to get a little bit of winterizing.

Not adding my time or collection fuel burned. I have
0.44$ in additives and $2.10 in RUG. $2.54 for 10 gallons of fuel aint to bad..... I think I can splurge Tom

I'm just trying to undo the octane lowering the Cetane and lower the viscosity. (This is a one tank, unheated fuel. Mix, pour and go)

I thought of trying some kerosine in the next batch. This blend has been in use for over a year by others.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?q=Y&a=tpc&s=447609751&f=159605551&m=438602747&p=1

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=search&s=447609751&result_detail=3&x_as=&x_from_srchf=Y&reqWords=WVOBl&exactPhrase=&optWords=&notWords=&f=159605551&afterDate=&beforeDate=&authorName=&sortType=1&exp_ptyp=Y&ptyp_poll=Y&ptyp_album=Y&ptyp_msg=Y&x_disable_post_details=Y&groupType=1&search=Search

Peter

bill murrow · #42 11-24-2004, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmari

"unless you own the 5 cylinder Mercedes engine. Then, no modifications are needed". Looks like I'll be fine with that.
Bio can also heat my house as we burn oil in our boiler."

You can run a blend in MB right now. No need for bio-D

As for the house, the guys over on altfuelfurnace are getting close to modifing a Becket to burn WVO.

Why? Because I want to heat my house and if I make bio for that I might as well burn it in the car as well. My furnace is only 4 years old, cost me $4000, and I'm not going to replace it again so I can burn WVO.

I would think straight WVO might cause algae, but does your blend pose any risk of algae? I know, dumb question--with gas in the mix I wouldn't think so but just thought I'd ask to confirm.

Also, what about anti-gel? You make no mention of any gelling problems so I'm assuming either the gas or the Power Service additive takes care of that. I don't run my car in the winter when there is salt on the road, but it does get cold here before the snow flies so gelling would be a concern.

Also, after switching to this blend, did your filters get clogged up from the dino diesel getting cleaned out?

Thanks...

Cheers,

Bill

83-240D · #43 11-24-2004, 09:22 AM

www.veggie avenger.com

got to forum
go to photographs equipment

buy the manual for 10 bucks.

www.northern tool for the 1/2 hp pump or get a stronger one

50 gal elec hot water heater was i think 130 bucks at hd

pmari · #44 11-24-2004, 10:22 AM

Quote:

I want to heat my house and if I make bio for that I might as well burn it in the car as well. My furnace is only 4 years old, cost me $4000, and I'm not going to replace it again so I can burn WV

Quote:

would think straight WVO might cause algae, but does your blend pose any risk of algae? I know, dumb question--with gas in the mix I wouldn't think so but just thought I'd ask to confirm. Also, what about anti-gel? You make no mention of any gelling problems so I'm assuming either the gas or the Power Service additive takes care of that. I don't run my car in the winter when there is salt on the road, but it does get cold here before the snow flies so gelling would be a concern. Also, after switching to this blend, did your filters get clogged up from the dino diesel getting cleaned out?

Unfortunitly Bill your new burner does not come Bio-diesel
ready (unless you have a Riello or some other Bio-D compatable burner?). The seals in the head unit are not made of viton (which will NOT swell with Bio-Diesel). Your seals are probably some form of rubber (nitril) and over time may start to leak from the Bio-D. If you have a compatable unit, please let me know what you have. At this point there are no U.S.A. makers of bio-D burners.
OTOH, WVO will not cause seal swelling and a mix could be run now. Reports of 20% WVO to 80% HHO mix with no ignition or gelling problems.

Alge growth is a water issue. I treat my WVO stock Barrels
with bioguard just in case. Plus I run 1/2 oz in each tank.
I also run some isopropyl once in awhile.

Increased viscosity from cold weather is the reason for the RUG. I've heard it mentioned that old MB manuals allow up to a 30% mix of RUG into dino diesel. Plus the PS/DK has anti gel properties, whether they work on WVO
is another question? It had been reported that an 80%WVO / 20% RUG is good down to 17F.

I have had no fouling problems...yet. I ran a few tanks of bioguard in shock quantities first. Along with several brands of fuel/injector treatment. I find West Marine has a good assortment of Diesel products.

TomJ · #45 11-24-2004, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmari

Not adding my time or collection fuel burned. I have
0.44$ in additives and $2.10 in RUG. $2.54 for 10 gallons of fuel aint to bad..... I think I can splurge Tom

I'm just trying to undo the octane lowering the Cetane and lower the viscosity. (This is a one tank, unheated fuel. Mix, pour and go)

I thought of trying some kerosine in the next batch. This blend has been in use for over a year by others.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?q=Y&a=tpc&s=447609751&f=159605551&m=438602747&p=1

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=search&s=447609751&result_detail=3&x_as=&x_from_srchf=Y&reqWords=WVOBl&exactPhrase=&optWords=&notWords=&f=159605551&afterDate=&beforeDate=&authorName=&sortType=1&exp_ptyp=Y&ptyp_poll=Y&ptyp_album=Y&ptyp_msg=Y&x_disable_post_details=Y&groupType=1&search=Search

Peter

OK, now I see what you're doing. I thought I knew it all, but reading all those those links has made me re-think some of what I knew regarding the blends :-)

I'll do some freezer tests on the WVO/RUG blends along with the PS additives and share my data.